This is getting to be a real pain in the a## ! . I've had this problem for way to long now . The " check engine light " has been long for so long now , I'm suprised it hasn't burned out . It's my 88 S10 4.3 auto . Code 13 is an open o2 sensor circuit . I have replaced the o2 sensor numorous times . Replaced the ecm , checked the voltage at the sensor as per instructions in both the Chiltons and Haynes manuals , voltage checks out perfect . The check engine light is out until the engine reachs operating temp. about 180 - 190 then it comes on . If I stop for gas , coffee , what ever and restart the engine the light stays out for about 5 mins. then goes back on . Sometimes while driving it will go out . I have to take it through emissions testing in about 3 weeks and it will fail if the light is on which will mean I can't insure it . I hate the idea of taking it to our local GM dealer at over $100 an hour . It's been driving me F'N crazy . If you can cure this for me I'll send you a 6 pack or something ! .
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It's a code 13 Please help me please help me !
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have you checked the voltage with the engine at operating temp? maybe the wire has a brake that only opens up when the enigne gets hot but when it's cold it still makes a connectionOriginally posted by Remy-Z;n1167534Congratulations, man. You've just inherited the "Patron Saint of Automotive Lost Causes" from me. No question.
75Grand AM 455:Pissed off GrandMA, 68 Volkswagen Type1 "beetle":it will run some year
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They don't pull ALDL data on an 88 here, only sniff and dyno. If it's running clean, they'll pass it... pulling the bulb isn't out of the question. Denton county is part of the EPA Dallas Fort Worth disaster zone... our testing is about as bad as Cali's. I'd be more worried about what it was doing to fuel and timing.
The 13 is dead 02, could be it's off it's scale? Is the exhaust pipe black, was the old 02 sensor blackened up? Here's the beauty of the Emissions test - when they put it on the rollers (if y'all do that) and sniff it, and it's likely they'll be able to tell you which way it is. Narrow band O2's don't have much range, so if it's off the chart one way or another the ECM will throw a code.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.
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Have you checked the continuity of the circuit, from sensor to ECU?1997 Ranger 5.0L HO, GT40 heads/tubular intake, 65mm TB, 1.7rr, B303, Tri-Y headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster mufflers, T5 trans, Tri-Ax shifter, CenterForce Dual Friction clutch, 8.8 Traction Lok 3.55 gears, Cobra 13" front brakes, Cobra 11.65" rear discs.
1997 Mustang GT
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light comes on, when warm only because the ecu doesn't use the none heated o2 untill then..
loosen the bolts/nuts at the front pipe and wiggle the pipe around, getting the rust off the ex. manafold and the pipe connection, the sensor mostlikely lost it's grounding through the exhaust.. run a junper to test
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are you using a scanner or reader? a scanner will show all of the parameters . When i worked at the garage we had a car come in and the colant temp sensor failed so it read -42' . I wonder if a failed colant sensor is flooding out your o2 sensor.Coming at you live from the birthplace of GM,Flint,Mi. Where your car is worth more than the property it's parked on.
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It's hard to troubleshoot things over the 'net, but I would tend to agree that it is something else (other sensor, ground, etc) causing the code your seeing. All of the sensors and systems work together, that's why a scanner is a better tool than a reader. Lately I've been seeing a lot of codes show up that have nothing to do with the actual system the code points to ....Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!
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