attacking a monojet

[Barry Donovan]

final build

11am. installed the needle and seat, and also swapped the baby monojets metering needle in. Realizing I had to remove an emulsification flood from the past days after installing, I let it climb to full warm at an idle (quite a task here in Maine right now). I must have some kind of luck… dialed right into the sweetest running little engine, after all these years of pouncing with japanese sized….”things”.


So to sum this up:

• little monojets plated metering needle (keeps the electric away) on the original larger power valve,
• through a holley #79 jet (fits hole better than rochester angle, nice modern bowl cut for jet venturi)
• my version of the float bowls needle and seat from little monojet, also plated.(old seat may even be radioactive..self electroplated)
• in the truck heavy duty monojet carburator body, with the bimetal relief area filled in…
• warmed up and lit by the choke I fixed my way.
• an extra resistor grounding on the back of the carb, acting as fuel heater, and light up the barrel per its own design (choke could not feed the barrel entirely- the all aluminum engine is very fast electrically)
• active fuel return
• EA82 valve cover bolt (interesting machining) to pretend to be a plenum center bolt at top of carb (static trick pulls at emulsifier per original design), sitting under hidden..
• a 1993 subaru loyale rubber like intake boot (full CAI to fender plenum- electrically stable)
• removed idle solenoid (12v live full speed ahead = electroplate the float bowl seat ) and replaced with a galvanized bolt(resembles choke pull) with a tease of different thread to lock it.
• custom idle mix screw (long taper- fatter end, brass nordic gold maker for the old hole.)
• custom flange gasket, (hand cut grooves after finding imprint- ensures equal vacuum, no swelling gasket to fill holes - air bleeders thanked me for it)
• choke pull to restricted vacuum (I found a brass reducer inside a subaru rubber vacuum hose) This is yet another thing to forget easily. the tiny pinhole at the end of choke pull is the size of reducer needed to go to carb..else it opens real hard and fast..can even stall a big engine. The four cyl let me know right away...and the choke idle refuses to be adjusted less than 2500-3000 rpm..any less? no cold start.
• mounted to automotive studs 3/8, brass washers, galvanized grade 8 nuts

away it goes.


As it turns out, the number 80 jet that the little monojet was using was rather constrictive because of its design. dropping the slightly fatter needle with longer thinner taper, than the original taper needle through a number 79 where it can respond faster was a very lucky coincidence. hesitation is null..and its not even in the 60degree weather for really fine tuning a finale. The hesitation going away has a bit of everything above to gain. this will only get faster responses. the high static clutch is back in its happy place as well.

I basically resembled a chevette carburator on steroids, in a truck carburator body..keeping everything large but needles and seats, and adding an active fuel return, a resistor, and making the choke many times tougher than the fuse built in.

I also removed boot ring, found the boot fits right on direct fit, no modifications.

[Barry Donovan]

rods needles and resistors

I found an easy way to explain some of why I added a resistor.

this site
and this vid:

the old carb has ingredients of fuel injection, in a primitive way.

as throttle barrel opens (lively barrel, conductive) air is drawn across it, of course, this changes ground. changing ground makes the needle less sticky... and then more fuel flows through the jet.

on my little engine, referring to needle caving in..it may mean of to its own circumference, not physically to see caving in the hole by eyeball..but a charge tha cannot let go. the little engine has less draft for a copper metering rod.

hence rochester used the plated ones for the little engines. these do not hold a big charge.

in theory a four banger can run with the oldest of log dead carbs because of the lesser charge.

I like it on a boxer, because it is stubborn, has traits of a v8, and the suck in firing order is perfection mathematically.
it does more than twice over an inline four...just by existing.

hence boxers never scream. they don't have to.

the other point I learned is adding a resistor proccupies a place that needs stability. the resistor creates its own frequency, static pressure, and makes the world leave it alone.

that is how you can jump the car and land hard..and not stall. nothing is going to move inside the carb.

first of injectors were terrible..today they are gaining more pulse, more preoccupation, and even rally cars are down to minimal blips upon pouncing around.


This is how a monojet with a live needle is among the worlds first injectors...and it is a big one.

[Barry Donovan]

electroplating old stuff

this seat was so dirty it made me sick. it was some kind of exactly wrong to do what it did. I let it sit for 12 hours or so in toluene, then dremel tooled with 50 different bits to choose from to get the killer off of it.
I got to thinking of electroplating at home. never tried it.


I then sanded down to very shiny lively burly copper...
my first time ever attempting electroplate.. no solution but hot water, salt, ammonia from a window wash bottle, and a capful of bleach and putit all in a little bowl. 12vdc source, a nickel from my pocket, a brass washer and eventually a broken chrome antannae. This is 3 hours:



this went from bright copper, to black, then the nickel it did not stop thiefing for a long time...a brass washer also fed some, 3 bowl of water changes because of the repulsive things that came off of the seat. towards the end, it was methanic, urine type smell. this stopped, and then I attempted chromium half assed, but worth a try..gave that a good long time. as cathode, the chrome came off the antannae..but I do not know where it went. above is not shining like chromium, but that is where it was supposed to go.

the nickel was very dull even after cleaning the seat, the photo shows that something chromium did happen, not much, but something.

the way this thiefed in the nickel was almost realtime and powerfully so, I watched it change colors in seconds. As if the seat was never finished properly way back when. Explains how it gathered things.. it wanted something it did not have.

this is a keeper now, and am building yet another monojet.



this is the last bowl, with the chromium covered antannae. all the crud floated to the top..and the water took on a silver sheen underneath that gross layer. the chrome fell right off the antannae. I knew to keep it going for some time, even if it did not work...it sure as heck cleaned the old seat.

I guess I made something of a cupronickel..it does add a tremendous electric stability. in fact, a near 50/50 split is used just for that purpose, to help a real resistor.
it is the easiest of electroplating..no acids, and a nickel from your pocket. the dirty stuff gets kicked aside if the nickel needs to satisfy the anode. in this case, the old dichromate (rochester goop) must have been a flipper...as it was attracted to the nickel at the source, as fast as the nickel came to the needle seat.

this means the seat was attracted to positive and could ground at the same time. Absolutely bizarre..and in a bowl of fuel of all things to have such an ass of metallurgy.

anyway, did not mention the sube getting happier by the day. throttle is back to normal, clutch static back in its place..and I have no desire to even adjust the cable for full wide open..alot of power it has never had, hard telling what I might break next. the chrome seats and needles cured it from the minutes it was installed.

The oil system side is still in some emulsification goop from a bad year..but does get going. The carb will win this on a magical day.

[Barry Donovan]

custom jet needle


using a particular diamond dremel bit with a groove, I spun the needle gently to the spinning bit. Resembling the chrome plated four cyl needle that is in the car from the chevette is good enough. Here I gave it an even longer taper, more even, and made it impossible to choke the #79 jet. I let it sit as an anode with the chrome cheap stuff that came off the antannae doing whatever it does if anything. I then went onto stainless cathode, that cleans the hells out of this like it was back to new. This is worth doing now, the I-6 physic tragedy can’t even begin to happen on the old sube…and the idle solenoid spark plug wire sucker is never being used again. Another monojet carburator in sights, building a full spare, and continuing to play with electroplating.

I almost want to take the float bowl cover off and ty this..but no. I want to do a real chrome plating. the chevette needle is righton the money anyway. found several cheaper ways than entire "kits" sucking at wallets for no reason to get the plating done.

[Barry Donovan]

choke the choke


the rubber grommet between the carb and choke linkage is from a roofing nail. Just happens to be perfect. this goes on soft, the monojet changes it with time.Inside the barrel there is four openings that need the static charge the choke gives above the venturi…as well as emulsifier. Very tiny openings.. I also found if the emulsifier grounds on the choke flap, carb blips the throttle.. this means air leak someplace. the grommet fixes it. Once the carb realizes it has to force the resistor juice from the choke through the venturi, then the grommet seems it is doing nothing…it just simply sets the pace of what needs to calm down.


Now memory is kicking in like spring..
back with my chevelle in 1992-3 or 4..can't remember..same problem as the little sube. simply years I presume..no physical injury to match the problem.

the monojet in this thread is the same one. anyway back in 93.. or was it 4...
I was bewildered, under the hood..and for some odd reason, My hand beelined to the choke pull side of the choke..I put my hand around the shaft coming through top of carb..the phenomona stopped. I thought "there is no way that just happened". even the clackity clacking rods with good bearings shut up.. I knew I gained oil pressure.

I added some leftover fuel line between the linkage bracket and where choke comes through top of carb to act as a grommet, too tight is an easy thing to do..can't do it. Mystery resolved. That was one of the funnier memories. The monojet does not just use draft..it has to have the static untheived at the choke flap, and a working choke.

lo and behold...the little sube did the same exact things. The six was more dramatic, as it was a straw feeding 250ci. this no doubt led me to the shaft slop at the choke. only on the choke pull side, the throttle side could care less (I tried both with the hose trick). There is an air bleed within a half inch of the inside of float bowl top.. must have killed flow by getting fresh air instead of the environment in the plenum.

if it were not for that unintentional luck back then, I would not have figured it out and scrapped the carb...all to a sloppy choke shaft.

edit: been a day or so for this one..lost cold start entirely. I got to thinking how in hell this would kill the cold starts. Got the choke adjusted so no more screming high idle.. I have choke all the way closed to be at 1800 rpm.

The fix:
the carb got so tight I cannot give any gas on cold start..let it start rough, then kick it into the high idle after start. Identical to the I-6 after I fixed the old monojet in the early 90s. Another thing that is kicking in is staitc pressure related, as if everything is realizing it is at its permanent home. this is when it gets fun. it may lack power, it may do some other things..it all goes way. The noises of these mysteries are comical.. timing belt pulleys like a supercharger, even the power steering knows the little monster behind it delivering fuel air changes its own sound. this all goes away of course. This time frame also showed me the duct coming through fender wall needs a seal. I kept the giant seal from my dads rig air filter swap today and will be adding that in. Full CAI can have no leaks right now.. once it gets the path, it don't care afterwards.

it is a mystery of a long running engine.

[Barry Donovan]

anodizing + choke

getting to a last post will be the 108ci bellowing like a favorite chevy..

this should be it for awhile. the anodizing stuff, I'll give that to a frying august sun, and slap some wheel paint on the carb. I ponder gun metal black. I learned some trick about the dichromate..that is actually a primer for the next step, whatever it may be. The wheel paint tip came from a tv show.

This chore of recovering this exact scenarion.. little electric monojet on an I-6 from the 70s...it can get serious. I ended up in the hospital with metallic chemical gains on my life about 20 years ago. the monojet carb on my chevelle was only one ingredient back in the early 90s...and it was a powerful one. Being as I go slow now, disabled, taking time to figure it out... It is the I-6 upside down on a carb chemical that needed a correct direction after all. Air fuel starvation can allow man to make a black hole. Familiar with this on a subaru with a hitachi carb..not exactly intimidated by strange findings.

Obsessed with physics about cars a long time. I still assume it is my age group. Stuff in near mechanical perfection exists as guts..never ever ever corrected exactly.
the rest is up to thinking people of science...and they did not get paid enough apparently to care.

I was deciphering this all along, using the past, and a bad mounting place that would never keep a monojet happy (the I-6 is incorrect for 210cfm- in fact 3 of them on a 250ci is just right mathematically)..
the chokes burned right away. The carb has to have it. This left raw dichromate and an unanodized casting for a carburator...thiefing unsatisfaction it could even munch on nuclear atoms every environment has.

That is exactly what I bought..and am glad to expect the expected. It is a stinky process, and even hints of explosive at times. This most likely scared the unfinished details of a monojet to a shelf.

Another thing that was missing was the lack of fuel vent thought out as modern day. No concerns for gas tank, fuel can sucking back, just a basic humor the charcoal gone radiaoactive laws of bizarre panic 70s fuel crunch engineering. The one I bought had no superlight gasses from venting ever. this means a piece of grass could have stuck to the top of float bowl and never left. Alkaline and engines...mmmm tastes good. not to mention nitrates, blood, and every thing flying through the air.

I pop the hood today, been some weeks..the carb is just a chunk of alloy. calm cool, and much smaller to look at. the subatomic trick of morphing around like it just came out of the original casting is turning into a casual hardened monument.

if to attempt the monojet, especially the ones on the wrong sized engines..there is some strange things to take warning to, but not overthink it. they all recover on a normal setup. it does not like heat risers of any kind. In fact. I loved seeing the squeeze on throttle base into a frost covering as engine warmed up. Never saw that frma monojet..even the v8 was trying to kill us underneath the carb with an exhaust crossover. the monojet is plenty lit without extras..even on a 108ci boxer dumping it out like a sideways jug.

the anodizing by nature, the chokle resistor and extras, this takes the longest.

be sure that choke is working, if you choose to do nothing else. The carb I bought came form texas..the 20 s and 30s hit the area..but the ground is not exactly canada in the winter.
I knew it ran alot more without the choke than with. The casting never even settled down..at 34 years old.

the resistor trick, mine was custom..but even ebay has 50cent self cooling and some with mounting holes.. don't need a choke, just add a resistor or two.

now is just a waiting game, i do not drive often...am ready for a 500 mile or so ride.I'll try to make an interesting video.

a thing I will record too is how low it goes in rpm without missing a beat under load. I have never encountered anything like it until this combo I have going. the old numbers was 140 foot pounds at 2800...now it chugs all the way down to 1500 on the same hills, like a little diesel, except it is on gasoline.

[Barry Donovan]

siphon in a vacuum

I thought this was cool..of course dufus comments claiming mind superiority wonder why they did the experiment.

I immediately thought of the car with a singular source of fuel..and why no cylinder gets a different gas.

this question can arise for an automobile. it is not a stupid question or experiment. it has driven insanity all the way to multipoint fuel injection finding symmetry for fuel air delivery...enough vacuum to shred molecules..and the siphon/gravity weight favoring does go away.

my you tube comment.

there is still a problem, for any car, vacuum or boosted....

a heavy element will choose the same cylinder every time, and vice versa..an element that goes lighter than the others.

on my boxer it is number 3 cylinder. the crap hole cylinder.

high vacuum does run a long time..atomization of everything but elements that cannot. in the vid they even explained mercury shred itself in vacuum. there are many things that do not shred..and that is a mystery of all cars failing randomly.

[Barry Donovan]

boot ring and choke washer

trimmed boot ring to lesser height and took the bellmouth shape away. it is a perfect machining for a flat seat on top of carb. This needs it as part of faking a steel plenum. I also found the choke got tight with a washer and rubber grommet..carb is still shrinking. I left the rubber grommet, that is loose enough. the seat I was waiting for is happening fast now. ..this means a big little carb on the little big engine will be coming to life.
Today was the liveliest run ever. Not sure what it sounds like out back..but up front is a bellow with action. I may humor a speed run as of this moment. Not even dialed into the head welding heat yet. Some might know what I mean.. volvos, mercedes, bimmers, jaguars..all those fancy aluminums. they don’t just get up and go to a new build. The term “burn in” is literal. The euro stuff allowed me to understand the old ea82 alloy from subaru. Looking forward to that burst of heat..not into fail..but the final burn to content. it stays with it until I tear stuff apart again. Maine is very very slow on that subject through a six month winter and a build in the middle of it.


I thought I was all done tinkering. This should be it. I did get cold start back..but required waiting some seconds..what could be that stubborn with static...?

of course. the rubber boot without the ring.

I did spend some time on that. I forget winter and stuff keeping me busy indoors. That one ring may have taken more than an hour for all I know. the machining is a faultless seat..may as well use it.

[Barry Donovan]

resistor connection cover

more physics. Simple stuff this time.


was thinking of other pressures..this is one. if nothing forces the low volt into the screw I have it mounted to..nothing will. the going gets tough, this is gonna fly off in the wind like the static sounds on open phone line. I took this rubber piece off the old carburator, it kept the choke connection happy, to help seal it in.

this is what it looks like on the spare carb. The only thing to notice was how fast the catalyst heated up..the sweet smell in the white cold smoke was seconds after dead cold start. It is snow on the ground, remnants of a glacier under the car, and about 29 degrees. So, in the barrel, into the cylinders, and still alive headed towards the cat. All with this little extra piece not allowing for electrical bleed. A choke uses this on unsealed connections as that is a resistor. A lot more troublesome than the other side of resistance where the resisting has already taken place..but I knew that I did need it anyway. lucky guess.



the connection is a resistance frequency uknown. low amp, somewhere down to 5 volts. very gentle..but steady. also simulates an ultrasonic cleaner.

this engine starts like a four carbed motorcycle in january...the sensitivity is enough to drive american sized people insane (I killed my first subaru like an overgrown ape would). I chose to work with it..and it is 25 years later in maine, still running. Way below zero..triple digit above. This spell with the sunstorms and a flying nuke to go with them is a first for me (could be for many unsuspecting people), I do remember before my time when physics starts bothering anyhting and everything. mechanicals mastered..are the master.
the monojet is a simple genius. I look forward to the crazy times with automobiles.

the carb did not kill the carb...as well as cubic inches did not kill power.

[Barry Donovan]

painted carb


my ugly paint job. where there is none is an outright rejection of it. I photo'd this side for that reason. Near the lettering, a paint rejecting mystery. It is the only spots on the carb. fuel is very cold there. There is still ice in front of my car at 60 degrees out. The coming days are freak warm like most everone else has already the past weeks. Got what I wanted done, a helluva lot more than never was.

with the jackass of electrical engineering of my locale peaking back out for spring, I found some bumper and trim paint under the counter and decided to let the carb have some. The back half of carb really sucked it in, as well as float bowl cover..elsewhere does not care if it is painted. The painting showed me where it was not happy. The thief is where metal pretends to be porous..aluminum does that. Ironically, the back half of carb is where my resistor hookup went. Good call by eyeball. these invisible things are not easy.
went for a ride, the oxygen is starting to come off trees already, the right header gains a full sound..the tragic side of the engine. looking forward to this in full swing. Engine is still dialing in..a puff of old black carbon with the odor of hg fail from over a year ago..the carbon dum dum game is going to go where it is supposed to for the aluminum. this makes a nice engine. I also noticed the fuel is way better at mileage than the hitachi during warm up. at full warm, the hitachi died and went hypermiler. this one sustains around thirty. Nice throttle.

the paint was rustoleums "bumper and trim"..it stuck to my partially pvc grille with 366,000 miles, a lightning hit, radiator disaster, and something biug enough to crack it..sand salt, and bangor is a chemical dump. good enough there, may as well throw it on the carb. aluminum will not accept anything if in a giving mood. I expect the back half and float bowl cover to hang right onto the paint. Dull matte black. cleaned with straight up toluene first. left choke to air as oem intended, and stainless throttle, choke pull..those are not painted.

As there is no correct paint for anyhting ever.. I go about it on my own. the net allows me to see if what I thought was good was not bad.

Carbon black pastes were found to be effective as coatings for improving the performance of thermal gap-filling materials, including
flexible graphite, aluminum and copper. The thermal contact conductance across copper mating surfaces was increased by up to 180%. A
fluidic form of carbon black paste (based on polyethylene glycol) was more effective than a thixotropic form (based on polyol esters). The
carbon black pastes were much more effective as coatings than a commercial silver paste. With a carbon black paste coating, aluminum
foil (7 lm thick) was a superior gap-filling material compared to similarly coated flexible graphite (130 lm thick). However, without a
coating, flexible graphite was superior to aluminum. Commercial silicone-based gap-filling materials were inferior to flexible graphite or
aluminum (whether coated or not).
2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

above is one article. The mention of carbon simply tells me it is not a blue going to turn purple after the carb gets done with it. Carbon cannot be broken. It is also the greatest protector from uv rays. Lastly, I found it was made from petroleum. that is right where I stuck it.

I found rustoleum and subaru aluminum alloy is freakishly in love..as long as it has carbon black. I even baked an old oil pump with it. not even the ignite temperature is at the place the can may put after I am done with it.

the carb gets every element an engine has..every single one. Leave a carb as "anode mode" and say I told you so some weeks and months down the line.




edit: this post is getting long..but I did finally drive. first thing to notice was the amp guage (volts much lower)..and the paint is right into the carb. the carbon idea was correct. I do not want a second coat..it looks like pro anodize.

valves are flopping all around, I changed continuity to the heads..and got a good shot of paint exactly incorrectly into a vacuum port. The slight cough went away much faster now, the off idle to throttle. My I-6 did that for weeks after rebuild.. I learned it to be self cleaning right down to a molecular level. the little sube is at 20 inches vacuum, and doing even more than the six..this won't be long, the paint is like the earthquake in another direction. A gentle and larger is happening at the same time.. the boot was the first win to notice such a thing, now the whole carb was the second step. I did leave throttle base alone, that has to stay a thermal bridge as rochester intended. never paint the throttle base..

[Barry Donovan]

paint notes

I was wandering around the web looking up dichromate..

an old method, and toxic for setting up to be a finalized finish. carcinogenic, it did burn my hands. I am a nut with household cleaners..lysol 4 in 1 was very nice to the dichromate..allowed the ionization pig of anode mode to fall away and leave rochesters original orange pinkish coating.

I chose paint to finish it..dichromate very strong primer, lively thief.
the more i looked around..
dichromate and carbon black together made the worlds first photographs..using paper, water, and light. correct mixes..an artwork of its own. I have on aluminum..expecting iridescence random. black chrome would most likely be the result. will wait for 24 hour mark.

this stuff does come off the carb. I forgot to mention I stripped the float bowl cover due to an unknown attached chemical that fizzled to no end in warm water, by boiling it as hot as my pan would go, and keeping my face away from the vapor.

cover came out of the water grey, regular alloy, and the reacton caught up inside the cover did not happen again.

the float bowl is still covered heavily in the dichromate, and I wanted a dead carb..carbon black is a good answer. no paint is forever, even chrome processes.. it would have to melted together like stainless steel ...from the red hot liquid onward to casting.

there is some dangerous combos..funny enough, ethanol and chromium trioxide goes hypergolic, (self ignites)

get the old monojet covered or stripped right away for use today.

the 70s versions had alcohol or other old fuels. ethanol was not in the equation.

the same evening as this post, I was up at 3 am..horrifying toothache. Not a tooth. I had been through a toxic spell in the military. As if a nerve agent had its way.

2 gallons of water in about 30 minutes.. I could smell the first day of carb cleaning about a month prior.
Source unknown..for now blaming the fire and ice battle bangor maine is having right now. the pipes try to reel in time for a short spell until realizing it needs to stay in the damn ground. Keyword: "Ground".. the confusng subject for electrical engineers here as well. Even the volts in the wall is screaming like an iron grained glacier meeting the sun.



the ground is frozen. that is ice in photo. the tar in front of the car just gave up its glacier yesterday.. I know not to lay down to get underneath yet.

why would an old sube have 36 pounds of mig wire and painted monojet?

[Barry Donovan]

the real burn #1

I literally had to resemble a full engine burn in today, yesterday was carb paint job. Did not expect that.
I then realized...cams were september, plus casings...intake, carb, proper emissions, fuel line pressure change, radiator, a pitch stop (engine related) welded in january enough to pick up the car with it..

and I was going to get mad at valves flopping all around to the freak heatwave?
silly me.

first I have seen the gauge go to the halfway (180 thermostat right on the money). The engine got quiet, each throttling is the smells of new gaskets (felpro hg and subaru...yuck) and silicones. it is on the win side..slowly...this is where hitachi carb tried to kill me...slowly...

the biggest drama:

the painted carb.
it is quieter and larger at the same time.

the vent can actually spewed the old rochester smell..after moving vent line below head (woops- it needs to be below cylinder level to work)

74F, I parked where there was ice in front of it...power steering drained to nothing and left no puddle. a powerful mystery. vent can related. I guess it wanted to continue its petroleum breakdown on the steering rack.

filled it back up, and letting the paint have the 48 hours before driving farther. it turned out nice..filled a void. Got much tougher than the top of the boot that has the same paint.

underhood is dead with odors..stick my nose right in.

a last detail:
the fuel return line with little popcorn air bubble sounds at my T gadget I made..the monojet does not know how to purge. That was a good addon after all. memory relived after forgotten (I forget more than I learned..it just takes awhile to catch up to me.) So hesitation is to be ignored like the oil pressure (it is oiling wide open- I am afraid to try direct line gauge, I found 107 psi on my first subaru) let the little monster live..it gets calmer.

[Barry Donovan]

short onramp

I have demanded this 108ci take a short onramp now for its 6th year. I considered the engine a loss at least a dozen times. oxide scraping so thick even a pro would assume main bearing or piston chomping the wall...
but no. it does not stop running.

I make this vid to show I am not making a NOS squirting cacklefester out of the smallest road going machine still playing with a maine highway in realtime..with an original engine.

I could have been smarter in showing how short the uphill ramp is.. but explaining the end of second gear is the end of the ramp, and approx 65mph. I noted 70mph in the video. This is a 120mph sube without full throttle. A cool note is the camera is on steering wheel...smooth little buggy, T-rated tread at 15 inch (I am boasting many freakish hours of steel work for that one result). The hitachi did the ramp ok, but died immediately after second gear (that got scary for me). The rochester carries over into third making the front end light.. I love that carb on this engine.

note there is no bellow. this means no starve, no flood, no too much or not enough of anything it is asking for. I shot to 75 and let off. I still do not know how fast it is.. I don't even use wide open throttle yet. I have had it with the wide open..and wow. I am going to break something. I'll leave it where it is for now. about 80%.

for those that do not know the monojets function..vacuum can feed a full throttle like result without full throttle. To be a race car, and demand it is fun as heck..but, I hold back. I worked this tin can and want to relax.

[Barry Donovan]

real burn in #2

I have no regrets with that carb today. 82F and a cold ground (going for 5 days of all time warm). Added another speaker, car has all four. the front ones do something with engine bay, and anything with resistors. (remember the dodge omni anybody?)

Good hot run today. even got the temp gauge towards 3/4. Smell of hollow fuel (not real vapor). That faded away. oddly no smell of paint under the hot hood. the injection intake has 35mm round runners versus the 32mm mouse butt the other carb used for 25 years. The new spec clutch is crazy gripper, very static. Am loving that. this time of year all oem subaru verions began their fail and teased all summer long. I have done the crazy warm leap in the past with my other ea82s. This one is noticably bigger, causally,(my goal is not a “race mode” yet) and fuel is definitely right above 30. today the hitachi would have faked a big guzzle then shot to 40-50mpg..no cure until a cold wet autumn. The rochester is plenty robust. stands its ground. The heads and everything is liking that a lot.
I thought the paint mught be bad on a day like today..but no, intuition was correct. It likes it. this pigment of “carbon black” gets very hard..needs weeks , not days.
Ice on the warm pavement, 82F degrees…and a pile of new parts, and old spanning 3 different engines. Impressed I am.

to mention the parts (the carb has relation to all of them):
the carb is 1978 chevy truck
the valve covers and cam and casings are late 92, (sold in 1995 brand new)
the core of the engine is original 1987
the hefty for ea82 intake is 1990
oil pump 1993
distributor casting brand new (never used) that was found a few years ago, installed in 2011. (another monster to set right)
delco radio, 1996 chevy corsica (I did find the other "magic trick"- the late delco is incredible)

subaru EA82 changed their stuff in 1990, the 1987 alloy should be a pile of mush by now. Cold maine and brass+ copper saved it.

Today in record contrast of heat..no implode or explode. This little buggy engine can do anything.

[Barry Donovan]

delco to the rescue

added 25 feet or more to gain a full 4 speaker setup..1996 delco radio. I knew I had channel that comes back but a week after getting going. that held true (I had this radio in another car- I must have temprorary ESD one channel)

expecting something, and I guess I was playing with life and death after all. explains the lightning.

they had a shared looped spaghetti of nonsensical insanity to utilize 4 speakers.. could not even decipher it without a teardown of dash. I simply did not use ther hookups and ran my own channels. to heck where those wires went. lucky into the doors is normal. that saved another 8 to ten feet.

the odor of fake gas going with the increased amperage...
deionizing fuel can only mean one thing: the gas lines were being used as part of the crazy circuit of kill myself.

the headers quieted right down, fuel air right on the money. the monojet was robust enough to get over the stupid sucker.

I am expecting a gas guzzling spell to fill in the voids, and then smooth sailing from there.
the monojet itself is back in a normal direction, should expect some future oddity as it is guided in.

if I was a bit more paranoid beyond facts, I would swear to my own god they were trying to kill people with this subaru from a factory.