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Crankshaft Repair......

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  • Crankshaft Repair......

    So while I explore the custom bearing path for the fix on the Sonny Bryant crank I have, someone else made the comment that I could have the rod journals hard chromed back to factory specs, what do you think about doing this??

    My friend Rick also brought up that I could have the rod journals welded and reground, but the though of having someone weld on a Billet Crank just scares me......

    And lastly what other ways are there to repair crankshafts, basically all I need to do is add .010 to the rod journals.....

  • #2
    .010 could get a coating and grind..
    I think delta cams has a video of doing just that. blasting it with something, then grind polish.
    Previously boxer3main
    the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

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    • #3
      MOLDEX in dearborn , mi

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TC View Post
        My friend Rick also brought up that I could have the rod journals welded and reground, but the though of having someone weld on a Billet Crank just scares me......

        And lastly what other ways are there to repair crankshafts, basically all I need to do is add .010 to the rod journals.....

        As a former machinist/tool & die maker I'd say don't sweat it, it's just metal, it can be mended.
        I've seen engine parts in terrible condition get repaired & used with no drama.
        Billet cranks are easier to fix, they're made out of ONE hunk of steel.
        Find a good shop, send the crank & let 'em fix it.
        Cranks can be welded, it's not a big deal......................

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        • #5
          I've welded and ground many cranks and the negative is it gets hot enough to change the heat treating characteristics and can make the crank brittle and prone to breakage. I've also ground many large industrial and compressor cranks that have been hard chromed and was very impressed with the results.
          Welding will always pull in the direction of the mains and they will need to be straightened and ground to get them perfectly in line.
          Then if you are running a clutch the flywheel flange should be faced so flywheel runs true.
          Of course if it was my engine, I would throw that short stroke morphadite shaft away and put something with some stroke in it. You can't beat cubic inches and if you could gain about 75 cu. ins. you could run the engine slower and make more power.
          Nascar uses that short stroke to keep piston speed down at the superspeedways where they are turning in the neighborhood of 9000 for 500 miles. Not really your application and not a recipe for torque.
          Last edited by OldMachinist; June 2, 2012, 08:15 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by OldMachinist View Post
            I've welded and ground many cranks and the negative is it gets hot enough to change the heat treating characteristics and can make the crank brittle and prone to breakage. I've also ground many large industrial and compressor cranks that have been hard chromed and was very impressed with the results.
            Welding will always pull in the direction of the mains and they will need to be straightened and ground to get them perfectly in line.
            Then if you are running a clutch the flywheel flange should be faced so flywheel runs true.
            Of course if it was my engine, I would throw that short stroke morphadite shaft away and put something with some stroke in it. You can't beat cubic inches and if you could gain about 75 cu. ins. you could run the engine slower and make more power.
            Nascar uses that short stroke to keep piston speed down at the superspeedways where they are turning in the neighborhood of 9000 for 500 miles. Not really your application and not a recipe for torque.
            I know I could go with a bigger stroke but this one is more of doing something different.... I really like the Nascar theme it's going to have........And I know all about torque(that's what the twin turbo's are for)....... I'd also like to do some standing mile events and nothing gets you MPH better than RPM........

            And there's a place here called Arizona Hard Chroming, been around for like 30 years and they repair cranks, so I'll give them a call on Monday and see what my options are......... I really like the idea of returning the crank to STD specs........
            Last edited by TC; June 2, 2012, 11:23 PM.

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            • #7
              Just cause its different doesn't mean its good. Had a buddy with a 327 he was in love with-til we built him a 383.

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              • #8
                Figured I'd add this to this thread in case someone didn't read the bearing thread..... Anyway I talked with the people at Arizona Hard Chrome and they no longer repair cranks, so they referred me to Electronic Chrome and Grinding which is in the LA area in California...... They told me to ask for Mike and that they do beautiful work and are one of the best in the Country at doing this stuff....... Anyway talked with Mike and he told me it wouldn't be a problem to put the rod journals back to the 1.850(STD) spec that the bearings need......

                And the big question, Cost, $385 for the first journal and $85 for each additional one. So I'm looking at $640 for the 4 rod journals....... I'm thinking for the simplicity of it, to just drop off the crank, pick it back up and buy off the shelf bearings is going to be the more cost effective way in time and money to fix this problem......... So I think this is the route I'm going to take........

                And if you need any hard chroming done or need to fix a crank like I do. Give these guys a call, they came highly recommended to me.......

                Electronic Chrome and Grinding has very deep hard chrome plating tanks for commercial hard chrome applications: oil and gas drill rotors, racing crankshafts, motorcycle forks. Call 562-946-6671. We also provide ID - OD Centerless grinding services.
                Last edited by TC; June 5, 2012, 12:50 PM.

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