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Ok, here's the deal. Looking to put either a C3 or C4 corvette rolling chassis under this car. Question which chassis would be easier to work with?
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C4 - it has advancements that you'll really like (such as rack and pinion front suspension, forged aluminum control arms, the entire housing in the rear is aluminum as well as opposed to the cast iron of the C3) and the pickup points have been done by others (in fact, I'd bet there's a kit out there that adapts the C4 suspension to you tri-5 frame. I wouldn't swap the entire frame... too much workLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 18, 2014, 08:52 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Found the kits needed to make the stock frame work and now searching for a donor C4 Corvette for the suspension parts. Anybody know of one please let me know.Long Haul Gang 2011,12,13,14,15,16,17,19
The older I get The Faster I was!
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You can't have mine, but here's an example of something that was purchased a while back for a grand: You might do better yet with some shopping.
As you would have been finding out had you tried, there's nothing in the stock frame (made from sheet metal and integrated with the body pretty-much) that you can use. Suspension components etc. need to be just pulled out and bracketed into your stock frame (or maybe something fabricated?). Even the more conventional perimeter frame from a 2nd- or 3rd-gen still wouldn't have worked due to shape, etc.
Misc. issues you are going to run into will include the fact nearly all rear diffs from the relatively light and low-powered 4th-gens are Dana 35's...there are a few 44's out there but hard to get...and I don't know what "kits" do about the steering rack position. It's pretty common that guys go to use Vette stuff in other cars and don't worry about the rack until they actually confront the fact that with normal engine positioning that rack and the front lower portion of the engine both want to go in the same space (the Vette has a lot of engine setback and mounts the rack high and in front of it). That's a killer. Presumably any kit will have this figured out. possibly by lowering the rack (along with tie rod ends out at the spindle) so it will go under the damper.
If it were me I'd also consider stepping back to easier upgrades such as disc and rack conversions and narrowed 9" etc. on that pretty Chev which looks in good condition now, or go full-bore forward into an Art Morrison-style fabricated frame which would be a lot of bucks and time but really push your hobby level forward.Last edited by Loren; July 20, 2014, 07:28 AM....
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Originally posted by Loren View PostYou can't have mine, but here's an example of something that was purchased a while back for a grand: You might do better yet with some shopping.
As you would have been finding out had you tried, there's nothing in the stock frame (made from sheet metal and integrated with the body pretty-much) that you can use. Suspension components etc. need to be just pulled out and bracketed into your stock frame (or maybe something fabricated?). Even the more conventional perimeter frame from a 2nd- or 3rd-gen still wouldn't have worked due to shape, etc.
Misc. issues you are going to run into will include the fact nearly all rear diffs from the relatively light and low-powered 4th-gens are Dana 35's...there are a few 44's out there but hard to get...and I don't know what "kits" do about the steering rack position. It's pretty common that guys go to use Vette stuff in other cars and don't worry about the rack until they actually confront the fact that with normal engine positioning that rack and the front lower portion of the engine both want to go in the same space (the Vette has a lot of engine setback and mounts the rack high and in front of it). That's a killer. Presumably any kit will have this figured out. possibly by lowering the rack (along with tie rod ends out at the spindle) so it will go under the damper.
If it were me I'd also consider stepping back to easier upgrades such as disc and rack conversions and narrowed 9" etc. on that pretty Chev which looks in good condition now, or go full-bore forward into an Art Morrison-style fabricated frame which would be a lot of bucks and time but really push your hobby level forward.
when I first heard the cost of the Art Morrison frame, I fell over (15k), but, when you consider what you get and the amount of work it takes to get a similar result - it's actually a pretty good deal. That said, I'll always get more pride out of saying "I did it" rather than "I bought it."
...and Loren, you have the best piles of crap anywhereLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 20, 2014, 08:30 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Postthe best piles of crap anywhere
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See if you can find a picture of a 57 chevy with that suspension under it. I have a feeling that it's going to be tough trying to fit the tires under the fenders. And if you can, they'll be just too dang wide to look right.
but that's just my opinion....I can deal with the way a tri-5 handles with stock suspension, and a few upgrades.
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Originally posted by Loren View Post
A high complement. My piles of crap are artfully procured and have quintessential style and depth, with glorious tones of random selectiveness...all delightfully un-refined and aged to perfection. Truly a smorgasbord of earthy, corroded, crappy goodness. My Private Reserve.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Last edited by silver_bullet; July 23, 2014, 10:37 AM.Patrick & Tammy
- Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??
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Originally posted by silver_bullet View PostDoing it all wrong since 1966
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Hey Dave, google Auto Source its an online salvage company I ran across, it generally has a vast selection of corvette's of all years at very low prices. I saw several good deals I might look into for parts for my 68 vettePt 2010, Long Haul 2011,12,13,14,15,16,17, 18, 19, 23
If you wait, all that happens is that you get older
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