wonder if the 77-96 b body parts swap in easy.. or the 73-76
Rebeldryver's '70 Caprice Granny's Luxo-Muscle-Barge
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If they did, we would have heard about it...My fabulous web page
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It's a SET3/SET5 bearing combo which is large car so the 77-96 stuff won't work as it's a SET3/SET6 combo. The 71-76 B-body uses the same bearings but the rotor offset is almost assuredly totally different. I'm also doubting the spindles would bolt in as well.Originally posted by NewEnglandRaceFan View Postwonder if the 77-96 b body parts swap in easy.. or the 73-76
This looks promising, I found it on www.car-part.com
1970
Hub
Chevy Caprice (1979 Down)OK 051395 $15 Mid City Auto Supply USA-NE(Hastings) 1-402-462-5121
About the only thing I can think of otherwise is to go to Coleman Racing and try to piece together something using stuff like:
http://www.colemanracing.com/Hub-Alu...ala-P4146.aspx or http://www.colemanracing.com/Hub-Ste...ala-P4144.aspx for hubs
and get a semi-custom rotor (http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-R...-32-P4246.aspx) to match the offset.
Expensive I know but it does give you a definate parts chain.Central TEXAS Sleeper
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I was actually about to jump all over these until I read the ad a bit closer.Originally posted by milner351 View Postaha - sorry I didn't catch that. bummer. It's a bit of a tough call to fix that hub given the safety implications - I'm sure JB weld around the outside of the bearing race would hold - the question is for how long. Another option is to set the race in place and peen the hub with several carefully placed chisel hits around the circumference to squeeze the race in the bore - again - not ideal but may get you by for a while until you can find a better junkyard hub without breaking the bank. I've seen farmers fix equipment bearings with these methods with pretty good durability - but it' wasn't on a front wheel!
OUCH
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-69-70-Ch...3b932e&vxp=mtr
Restoring a '69-'70 Chevrolet Passenger? Don't miss this opportunity to buy a PAIR of genuine GM NOS Front Wheel Hubs. They come with their original GM boxes as shown. We are selling these as a PAIR - one is 3988886 and the other is its replacement number 3960228. Catalog information:
•Group Number: 6.307 - Hub, Front Wheel
•Part Number: 3988886 (Replaced 3960228 12-71) - with Bolt - 2 Required
•Applications for Chevrolet:
◦1969-1970 Passenger (exc. Disc Brake)
■Passenger Includes: Impala - Bel Air - Biscayne - Caprice
My old suspension supplier in LA has come through with a used disc brake hub with good races. $120 plus shipping. I would have to wait nearly a week to get it.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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I could go to the junkyard, pull off spindles and hubs off a drum brake car for $150, then spend another $500 on a retrofit disc brake kit for drum brake spindles. Or, spend $225 on a rotor and hub. Anyone else think this math a bit off?Originally posted by Russell View PostIs there an easy retro fit from a late model? just replace the whole spindle, hub, rotor, caliper.
Not sure if this will work on your car. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/arch.../t-107745.htmlBS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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the retro-fit corvette rotor link in first few was worth a read. I think he figured out there is more area than just the lugs holding the rotor still. .040 play is not much, I'd cut up a .020 feeler gauge and shim that if it bothered me.Originally posted by ImpalaSam View PostFlying south, with a flock of bird dogs.Comment
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Math sound good on both the $ and time front. I did not know chevelles where consided "small" cars. That sounds like the best fix. Did not know if any newer parts would swap on even if you had to replace spindles / control arms. (The following is a joke!) What about a Crown Vic cross member?Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostI could go to the junkyard, pull off spindles and hubs off a drum brake car for $150, then spend another $500 on a retrofit disc brake kit for drum brake spindles. Or, spend $225 on a rotor and hub. Anyone else think this math a bit off?Comment
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Spend $700 on parts and a week to put it all is better than me buying one rotor and having the car fixed in an evening?Originally posted by Russell View PostMath sound good on both the $ and time front. I did not know chevelles where consided "small" cars. That sounds like the best fix. Did not know if any newer parts would swap on even if you had to replace spindles / control arms. (The following is a joke!) What about a Crown Vic cross member?
I bought a new used hub from my guy in LA. Should be here by Friday. $135 with shipping.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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When the Chevelle (Malibu) was insured with Allstate, I got an economy car discount on it. ...but I thought it was a mid-sized car. Novas, Camaros, and perhaps Corvairs would have been the small cars I would guess.Originally posted by Russell View PostMath sound good on both the $ and time front. I did not know chevelles where consided "small" cars. That sounds like the best fix. Did not know if any newer parts would swap on even if you had to replace spindles / control arms. (The following is a joke!) What about a Crown Vic cross member?Comment
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good stuff!Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostI bought a new used hub from my guy in LA. Should be here by Friday. $135 with shipping.
Yeah, a chevelle is a midsize car, and they got tiny in 78.My fabulous web page
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I pulled the rotor off the driver's side to check the bearings. The grease was done in, but bearings and races were fine. I changed them out anyways. Been a long time since I packed bearings the really dirty way. Thankfully, I still had a box of rubber gloves lying about.
My new hub hasn't been delivered yet, so the passenger side waits. I did knocked the wheel studs and hub out of the rotor in wait. Had to buy another oil seal for the inner bearing which I will be taking out of the old hub.
The pads still looked nearly new. Reusing them.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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