355 and 406 build question.

[TC]

Doesn't sound weird... cuz it's true. The 2-bolt has more meat in the webbing area of the mains. To make a really bad-ass 406... use the 2-bolt block and machine it for splayed 4-bolt caps.

As long as he doesn't try to spin it to the moon, he'll be fine..........

You got splayed caps on your buzz bomb??...........

[jcharliem]

You got splayed caps on your buzz bomb??...........

Nope. Just a standard 4-bolt block...pulled from a junked out donor '69 Z/28...with OEM caps secured with studs. The bottom end is the least of my worries... my weak link is the valve train.

[streetshark]

Yeah, not a 2 bolt. Gotta work with what I have. Not totally sold on the 406 yet as the 355 still has potential. I wanted the 406 for the torque I read it will put down, as it will be lugging my big-ass caprice down the track and also doubling as my power tour car for 2013.

With my financial situation, I am just happy to have options. Thankfully my brother and a few friends will be helping me with the build to keep costs down (service manager for Chevrolet dealership). Lots of craigslist browsing in the future.

[wyrmrider]

OP Big Heavy Impala needs the big motor
stock converter and gears?
you did not say if you were going to do a rebuild but assuming you are.
You got a good score on the heads
what's the CC?
figure out the compression you want and figure how big a "D" Dish you need at 0.0 to plus deck
you would like to end up with .025-.030 quench
(gasket thickness is OK and .050 is absolutely max)
I recommend 5.7 rods and Keith Black hyperutectic pistons-
(remember to gap your rings)
ductile moly top total seal second optional
Before you tear the motor down measure all four corners and determine how much you have to mill the block to get it both square and for a 0.0 deck for proper quench (which is critical) 9.010- 9.015 usually works but your mileage may vary
Finish hone with 280 grit full length then plateau with 400-600 grit on area of ring travel only leaving 280
on the lower skirt area for oiling.
For a cam- find out your head flow at all lifts
Contact Rick Jones Jones racing cams and give him the flow - He will get you the right cam
He has some max area hyds that really work
ask him about 1.6 rockers on the intakes only or on both
Call him before you select your compression as his cams are shorter on the seat for an equivalent lift or duration at .050 or .0200- giving you more effective compression and more low end torque for any given duration at .050
These engines are old so need extra cleaning
bottom tap all the bolt holes
I drill a small hole from the "1 cam feed through the cam gear thrust for some oiling- you can also do this with the thrust main - especially with a stick shift
drill out the main oil feeds
Install the cam bearings with the oil hole at 3:00- 4:00 in direction of rotation assuming that your block cam journals are grooved to get feed in that position
ASk about lifters with lobe lube
(Today's oil has much less ZDS so scuffing is a real problem)
let us know if your are going to run a hyd roller
have a great build
Daily driver?
Trailer tow?
Regular or Premium?
Injection or carb?

[yellomalibu]

There are tons of online compression calculators, so determining which CC dished piston to go with shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
The only problem is that I haven't been able to find an inexpensive D shaped dish piston for the stock length rods - but that's only a problem if you want to use the short rods.
Most people building a performance motor opt for the longer rods to get a more desirable rod/stroke ratio - and of course for the better availability of a performance rod at a reasonable price. This requires getting the assembly balanced, and clearance issues with the cam if you don't use a "stroker" rod with cap screws. The Eagle, Scat, Manley, etc H beam rods with the cap screws clear the cam with no problems - but need the block clearanced a bit at the pan rails and possibly on the bottom of the cylinders.

I have gone from a 350 to a 400 before, and the torque difference you feel when you push the gas pedal down is awesome.

There are plenty of nay-sayers when it comes to using a stock 400 block, but I ain't one of 'em. "There's no replacement for displacement".

[SuperBuickGuy]

Yeah, not a 2 bolt. Gotta work with what I have. Not totally sold on the 406 yet as the 355 still has potential. I wanted the 406 for the torque I read it will put down, as it will be lugging my big-ass caprice down the track and also doubling as my power tour car for 2013.

With my financial situation, I am just happy to have options. Thankfully my brother and a few friends will be helping me with the build to keep costs down (service manager for Chevrolet dealership). Lots of craigslist browsing in the future.

my dad and I were having a conversation today that seems quite relevant to this one. His friend has a crate 350 in his hauling truck, and hates its lack of torque. So we were bench racing all sorts of ideas (the guy has a 70 El Camino with a 4 speed as trade - thus its value determines how much is going to be spent on the build) on what would work best.... our agreement was this, there is no replacement for displacement - especially when you're trying to move large objects. I've done the 350, 383, 400, and 406 in the same truck. All those motors were in a variety of build combinations, and nothing compared to the 406. It even got better mileage.

Sell the 350 and use the money to buy better parts for the 406 - like 5.7 rods and pistons.

[TC]

Sell the 350 and use the money to buy better parts for the 406 - like 5.7 rods and pistons.

X2

and with this cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-560-4//

[streetshark]

Wyrmrider - Caprice is a 1989 and will only be a weekend cruiser/once a month strip car. Also has to be dependable and streetable for the Power Tour. Has to run on pump gas. Not sure on gearing and converter yet. Trans is a 700R4 out of my brother's 12 sec Camaro nicely set up. Cam is still in the air, and I am paying attention to all the ideas on here. In the end, it will probably be up to the guy actually building the engine (making sure I don't screw it up) with ideas I give him. Looking to perform in the 0-5500 rpm range.

I am leaning heavily towards the 406. I bought it complete with from carb to pan. It has a fresh rebuild (so I was told) but will tear it down and have everything examined before it goes back together with the new heads. Depending on the parts that are in it I may end up buying new internals, or whatever I can sneak by the wife.

If anyone is wondering why a Caprice, I just happen to have one that is bone stock with the 305 TBI. Bought it on a whim and the price was right. My last performance car was a 2010 2SS/RS Camaro M6. Camaro had to be sold due to wife being "downsized" from job and with the budget shrunk, need to be thrifty and use whatever I already have laying around. The Caprice looks exactly like the one attached, down to the Z28 rims.

[JeffMcKC]

As long as he doesn't try to spin it to the moon, he'll be fine..........

You got splayed caps on your buzz bomb??...........

Why yes I do, on my 2 bolt 421 engine.

[SuperBuickGuy]

did you get the 9C1 package?

Jeff - with stock internals, you spin it up? You're braver then I

[JeffMcKC]

I would use the 400 if your going to make ( pick a number) 1.2 HP per cube then the 350 will make? the 400 will make? do the math the 350 will never catch up. Keep in mind its all about the air kept in the cylinder and where peak TQ is made when picking a comp to use and a camshaft. It takes both working together to run right.

Keeping on Budget I would get a stock car claimer engine kit.

[JeffMcKC]

did you get the 9C1 package?

Jeff - with stock internals, you spin it up? You're braver then I

I aint Skeered!

The engine I have right now see's 8300 with a Eagle Crank and rods LOL

He wont be spinning it up the heads wont let it, or I would not even try to because of the gear and converter he will be using.

[TC]

Why yes I do, on my 2 bolt 421 engine.

My 406 has them to......

[skullbucket]

Wyrmrider - Caprice is a 1989 and will only be a weekend cruiser/once a month strip car. Also has to be dependable and streetable for the Power Tour. Has to run on pump gas. Not sure on gearing and converter yet. Trans is a 700R4 out of my brother's 12 sec Camaro nicely set up. Cam is still in the air, and I am paying attention to all the ideas on here. In the end, it will probably be up to the guy actually building the engine (making sure I don't screw it up) with ideas I give him. Looking to perform in the 0-5500 rpm range.

I am leaning heavily towards the 406. I bought it complete with from carb to pan. It has a fresh rebuild (so I was told) but will tear it down and have everything examined before it goes back together with the new heads. Depending on the parts that are in it I may end up buying new internals, or whatever I can sneak by the wife.

You should just leave the 305 in it and add what cheap bolt ons you can and forget wasting any more money you don't have on it.

[streetshark]

I wouldn't call it "wasting" money on it. I can always pull the 406 out and give the body to my nephew for a demo car. Besides, it's kinda my 4th car, behind my wife's turbo Cruze, my Jeep, and my Mustang GT conv. Just something to play with, and I haven't seen another that is not all ratted out and falling to pieces. It's basically rust free with the paint in crappy shape.

SuperBuickGuy - nope, not the 9c1. This one just fell into my lap. One family owned car bought locally in 1989. Wish it was a retired squad, but not so lucky. It does have the certified speedometer from a squad that I bought off fleabay tho.