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Couldn't resist it. Time to pull the exhaust manifolds and change some gaskets. There are a thousand recommendations on how to do that, but I'd be interested in what order people suggest trying them. So far it is spray everything with PB Blaster, let it soak then give it a try. Nothing moves, so evidently it's not going to be really easy. Of course. Soaked them in the PB then let it run till hot. Nothing moved. Let her cool enough to spray without clouds of smoke, soaked them down, waited till morning. Nothing moved. Evidently forty years is too long to wait. They seem to like being where they are at. I'm a bit leery of using the 3/4" drive. I'd like the bolts and nuts to come out in some condition besides fragmented.
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Soak them in a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Tap on them with a hammer, try and tighten them gently first, then try to remove them. Lather, rinse, repeat. If still no go after several attempts, smoke wrench.I'm still learning -
Spray them with an ignited mixture of oxygen and acetylene. Apply liberally until glowing orange and quickly rotate the fasteners in the "off" direction. Particularly stubborn fasteners may need a re-application of the oxygen/acetylene mix. Works every time.
DanComment
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Like Dan said...might add a touch of oil or parafin while it's glowing hotMy fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurkComment
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good answer.Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
take power away from engine too, unhook battery.
silly mystery. it must be a hundred years old smashing people in the face invisibly more than ever.
a good trick is turn air gun down, hammer gentle. A big gun going gentle is the biggest hammer.
I used an ingersol rand, 450 foot pound on tiny gas tank bolts on the old sube..never changed, 26 years dangling in the willywags...all of them came out. No torch option there of course.
really weird? they were screwed into welded nuts made of a rusted sheet metal beam. What are the odds.
if a casting moved in a head, there is no chance for exhaust, time to drill.
studs never changed are in a degassed casting. Very tough and tight.Previously boxer3main
the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.Comment
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hard to apply heat with them in the car sometimes. I tried all kinds of things and wound up with this:
Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.Comment
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Just go ahead and pull the motor it will be easier to work on while on the stand! Might as well rebuild it while it's out. Since you are now rebuilding it you might as well put aluminium heads and headers. There now you don't have to worry about those bolts!
I love scope creep and spending someone else's money!
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That works well, especially with electrolyzed aluminum/steel..Originally posted by squirrel View Post
(Some have seen this photo on facebook..)
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Russell, I like the way you think. Now if I could just find some of that "other people's money."Last edited by Yardpilot; May 19, 2013, 12:46 PM.Comment
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Applying a little bit from everyone. Haven't had to hit the hot wrench yet. Lots of soaking with PB, I have several gallons of it I got on sale so I use it a lot. Put the little 3/8" ratchet on number one top side and pulled. Nothing. Pulled harder. Nothing. Put the short 1/2" breaker bar to use. One little tug and, "Pow!" That felt like the whole "crap it's busted" thing. Pulled the wrench out, no bolt. Okay, reach in and check. It came out with nothing more than the fingers. Yes, the fingers came out, too. Top side 2-3-4 same same. Bottom side 1-2-3, just like clockwork. "Bang!" they are loose and out they come. Then there was the last one. Pulled and pulled and pulled till the cursing started. Couldn't get the impact wrench in there. Tried the little impact driver, a tool I just love. No room to work down in there. Hm. okay, got the 3/8" air ratchet. Chuggety chuggety chug. Boring. Strapped it down to the exhaust pipe, wrapped the trigger down with a plastic tie and left it for a cup of coffee. I heard the wrench whine just as I stepped back out with a fresh cup. Last bolt out, all intact.
Of course, I looked up a listing and a couple of references and made sure I had the 16 3/8" x 2 1/4" bolts I would need, right? Even got a couple of studs just in case. Naturally the top four bolts are 3/8" x 1 3/4" and the bottom four are 3/8" x 1 1/4". Argh! I guess I'll polish them up on the wire wheel and reuse them, replace them later. The manifold dropped right away from the head. Maybe a half inch. That will have to do, since there is no wiggle room down below unless I try to pull the pipe at the flange, which is probably a good idea since I have a box of assorted doughnut gaskets in the shop.
Top number one bolt threads are black to where they actually enter the head casting. Number four top is about the same. Top 2-3 are fairly clean. Bottom 1-2-3-4 are all very rusty. Gotta check my taps to see if I have one in that size. Probably do.Last edited by Yardpilot; May 19, 2013, 12:51 PM.Comment
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just snapped off the bleeder on a rear wheel cylinder of the jeep. next case step down. theres already a pilot hole so I guess I try the screw extractor before replacing the cylinder. Its just one bleeder or cut off two heads of the bolts holding the cylinder to the backing plate.Comment
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With all of the bolts out, there is about an inch or less to work in between the manifold and the head. The gasket in there is something awful, white and cooked on. Stuff is almost ceramic-like. It scrapes off with great reluctance, deflecting the scraper and drizzling down as fine powder. This should be fun. In order to get a bit more room, I thought I could disconnect the flange. Ain't happening. The tiniest little tug on one of the bolts and it felt like the bolt was twisting. Right at the moment I am in no position to just twist it off and go from there. I went back to the next joint where the first clamp is. Yup, clamped, but welded, too. Same behind the muffler. So, I took the pipe and muffler hangers off. That allows me to turn the whole pipe, drawing the manifold away from the head two to three inches. Here's hoping patience holds out. I think this whole exhaust system is going before fall. Maybe I can find a set of small headers the will fit. That would be nice.Comment
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+1 on the hot wrench to remove exhaust studs. I've been trying to get my wife's 69 back on the road, I replaced the exhaust with the usual problems with rusted stuff.
B tank
15 minutes later
old studs
New studs! Chase the threads out first with a tap and use anti-sieze.
TomOverdrive is overrated
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is that mapp gas ?Comment
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Same question. I usually heat up the oxy/acetylene.Originally posted by SpiderGearsMan View PostI'm still learningComment
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