Originally posted by STINEY
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Who's had a barn / shop built - lessons learned?
Collapse
X
-
Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
74 Nova Project
66 Mustang GT Project
92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
79 Chevy Truck Project
1956 Cadillac Project
-
Chris for the win! A closed trailer would be best with corregated cardboard under them to absorb shock. If you have enough cardboard it wouldn't hurt to put some between the fixtures, too. I get big sections at a furniture store or appliance store - they're happy to get rid of it. A couple of layers would work pretty well. My suggestion is to grab a couple of extra fixtures to pilfer parts off as needed.
I feel like a big dummy for tossing all of my old T12s, not knowing I could remove the ballasts and install LEDs - live and learn. I must have taken 20 or so to the dump and bought new. Quoth the electrician, "Nevermore....."
DanLast edited by DanStokes; August 25, 2016, 01:16 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by JamesMayberryIII View PostI'd think the units are boxed,, and came from far far away.. on a pallet.. of same units..
Think you are overthinking the ruff roads issue
Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
74 Nova Project
66 Mustang GT Project
92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
79 Chevy Truck Project
1956 Cadillac Project
Comment
-
$100 for a dozen - they're used, they were removed from an office someplace, they will be stacked, shrink wrapped, and tied down to pallets.
12 for me
24 for Stiney
Now lets hope I don't get stuck in too much traffic there and back to get them.
Initially I'm going to put up three rows of three fixtures, each fixture with 4 1800 lumen output LED tubes.
I'm on the fence about having the three rows on three switches, or just put them all on one.
I'm sticking with the idea of switched outlets flush with the bottom of the bottom truss cord.
Each fixture will hang from chains level, and have a simple plug in cord.
If I decide this was a horrible waste of $400 in the future - I'll unplug them and swap them out with the better idea.... I'm hoping that won't happen, but I've learned to hope for the best and plan for the worst.
Since I don't plan on using the bulbs, or ballasts as long as the sheetmetal of the fixtures is intact, I'm good.
I wonder if there's any scrap value to old ballasts?
I learned another thing about LED ballast bypass - some LED should be wired with power to one end of the tube (both prongs) and neutral on the other end (both prongs)
Other tubes require power to one prong on one end, neutral to the other prong on the same end, and nothing at the other end of the tube.
The tubes I have now have a little schematic on the back side of the tube. This is another one of those pesky situations where you should read the darned instructions.There's always something new to learn.
Comment
-
John, since this is a new install for both of us.......have you explored the options of LEDs run straight off of DC current?
Theoretically, one transformer sending DC via doorbell wire to all the fixtures is more than sufficient.
And the wiring costs are MUCH reduced.
Just thought I'd further complicate the issue....lol.Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
Comment
-
I have LED "tape" lights under our kitchen cabinets - a transformer is plugged into a switched outlet - then "doorbell wire" is run through the cabinets (1/4" hole is plenty)
They've been up for a couple years now - working just wonderful.
I'm not sure I want to venture down that road for shop lighting - up at 11-12ft off the floor - I don't think strip lights would work.
The LED tubes are all set up to run on 100 - 277V AC and are common retrofits therefore cheap, at over 1500 lumens output per tube.
I do plan on running LED strip lights down the columns of the hoist for under car lighting.There's always something new to learn.
Comment
-
Finally - PROGRESS!
Got the permit last week - materials were delivered yesterday - excavation and post holes are supposed to happen this friday!
All those light fixtures are still resting comfortably shrink wrapped on pallets with an 8ft plastic drop in bed liner flipped upside down on top of them.
I have 36 "ballast bypass" LED tubes that will go into those fixtures.... once I get to that point.
Here's the materials... not very exciting but - I know ya'll like pictures!
3 PhotosThere's always something new to learn.
Comment
-
Thanks guys - my head is spinning with all the thoughts of what to put where, what to plan for / try to prevent, what the inspector may flag, etc, etc.
I'm not sure yet what the time line will be, but they are supposed to start tomorrow!!!
I'm going to ask them for an estimate to cover the existing barn in the same vinyl siding the addition will be, that way it will look more like it all goes together, and I will never have to paint the old T1-11 that's starting to need paint.
The 1985 JD420 with the new 20HP Kohler runs fine - I still have to re-wire it with a Kohler compatible ignition switch - for over a year now I've been starting it with a push button and shutting it off by pulling the ground off the battery..... LOL
Dan - Lee is mostly excited about the new to us (2012 I think) and needs work Manco 2 seat go kart we brought home last Sunday evening. He's being more patient that I would have been - I haven't touched it all week but to put a garbage bag over the 12HP Tecumseh which needs some carb and or fuel pump work, and a new air cleaner (currently there isn't one) I'm hoping I'll eventually take that and Lee and head to Silver lake with Stiney.....Last edited by milner351; October 13, 2016, 10:00 AM.There's always something new to learn.
Comment
-
Gene has been on a bit recently but probably best to PM him. He KNOWS this stuff!
Sounds like you and Lee have a fun project ahead of you but isn't that a lot of HP for a little guy? I remember the first 10HP I rode (Wisconsin powered) and it blewed my little mind!
Dan
Comment
Comment