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  • Anyone know...

    ...anything about Honda CB350s? I am going to go look at a '71 tomorrow morning as a first bike. Right now what I know about it is that it has about 9000 miles on it and it is in good running/driving condition, it isn't missing any parts, and it is otherwise pretty clean. Right now the asking price is $850, which seems fair if it is as advertised.

  • #2
    Walt - they are TOUGH little bikes, and big enough to actually ride 'em on the road fairly safely.

    My motorcycle riding tip - assume that car drivers are actively trying to kill you. Not that are about to run you over by accident, but ACTIVELY trying to end your life. The vast majority, of course, are not but that attitude will keep you safe. Ride on and have fun.

    Missed you at the new Ohio Mile. Hope you and the fam can make it down there soon.

    Dan
    Last edited by DanStokes; May 4, 2012, 07:05 PM.

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    • #3
      Great bike Walt. I used to ride one. Never let me down. I like the low pipes on the CB Better then the up pipes on the Scrambler. I would take a volt meter and make sure the charging system is working. Sometimes things go bad when they sit. The slides in the carbs can get a little sticky and so can the valves. If it runs and rides good it sounds like a good deal to me.
      Cognizant Dissident

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      • #4
        80 feels like 180 on a modern bike, brakes suck, they weight a ton, they are imminently rebuildable, and I want my CL back. The two cylinder is hammer reliable. Things I would plan on:

        Check the brake travel , there's an indicator on the wheels. If they look like they are getting close to the end of the limit, consider new pads. I'd consider cleaning them with brake kleen and a scotchbrite anyway. Good time to inspect the wheel bearings too.

        Get a cable luber and lube up the cables. PJ1 used to be a go to - haven't done this in years, but I'd still probably go to that.

        If the tires look even remotely weather checked, please consider budgeting for new ones. Flats / blowouts will ruin your day and old rock hard rubber is not much fun anyway.

        Valve adjustment - a manual probably wouldn't be a bad idea

        Sprocket wear / chain wear - pointy sprockets and new chain are a bargaining point

        Fork oil - bet it has never been changed. See about seals at the same time. You will have a witness mark of oil if they are leaking.

        Rear shocks - I'd think about checking the bolt diameter and seeing if something a little more modern would fit, I wouldn't be real surprised if Sportster gas shocks were close.

        Check the head bearings - they may be ball bearings probably so if you take the forks loose, be aware they will go everywhere. If the forks feel loose when you push or pull straight forward and back on the bars, they'll need attention. If the budget will hold it, a taper bearing replacement set might tighten up the feel.

        If the lights or signals are inconsistent, they used a lot of bullet connectors that you can rotate a bit back and forth to get them going again if it's just corrosion.

        If the carbs need attention, I think they are Constant Velocity? Be really careful with the diaphragms if you decide to clean them. Sticky slides suck... as mentioned. Speaking of, every pivot point on the thing probably would love for cleaning it and putting new grease on it.

        Fuel filters in the tool bag, if the tank is rusty you can get a sealer kit for 40-50 if I remember right. The bottom corners (lowest part) of the tank will bubble and have leak marks if the metal is getting thin. That is a pretty big negotiating point and probably one of the first things I would check. Gas cap gasket, make sure it's there or you'll get gas legs. After about 100 miles with gas on your leg, you'll know what I mean.

        The air filters are probably going to disentegrate when touched. Another negotiating point, they're not cheap. Likewise, if you plan on getting far from the house with it, a spare set of points and condensers in your travel bag is probably a good idea.

        Check the spokes for uniform tightness. They should all sound about the same if you boink them with a screwdriver or your finger. Truing up wheels is an art, if it needs it done you can plan on some coin or some time to get it done.

        If you have to do anything at all with the case screws, carry a hand impact tool. You may want to look into the common sizes in a parts catalog and get allen head replacements. Honda didn't mean for those screws to ever come out, and the beauty is, they really never had to. The down side is, the one you have bad access too will be the one that strips when you try to take it out. They used to sell whole engine kits for all the japanese bikes - for a reason. If you whack that muther with an impact before stripping it, they seem to be fine. It's the ones that the P.O. "worked" on that are already stripped.


        there's probably stuff I'm not thinking about but that would be what I'd start with on a 41 year old "new girlfriend"...

        Oh - and if it's Orange, I'm probably jealous.
        Last edited by Beagle; May 5, 2012, 05:57 AM.
        Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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        • #5
          Good input from Da Guys. My bro had a Benley 150 (predecessor to the 350) and those case screws can be a "treat". I had his apart frequently as the pre-350 design had a ton of transmission issues. My solution was to use a die grinder to grind a cross slot on the ones with their heads stripped and take 'em out with a straight bit in the impact driver. I never had any that were "welded" to the case, just that it could be hard to break them loose. This was in 1964 and I still have that Blue Point impact driver - and it still works just fine.

          Dan

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          • #6
            Dang beagle, I wish you had posted that a half hour earlier. I go to pick it up Monday. Everything seems pretty good. I brought an experienced rider with me and he test rode it for me, and he reported that everything work decently on the ride. Dang. I just bought a motorcycle.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 98ciHemi View Post
              Dang beagle, I wish you had posted that a half hour earlier. I go to pick it up Monday. Everything seems pretty good. I brought an experienced rider with me and he test rode it for me, and he reported that everything work decently on the ride. Dang. I just bought a motorcycle.
              My tips, get a helmet and don't be like me and not wear it!!!!.......I started out riding Dirt Bikes did it for years before I ever decided to buy a street bike, and I have to say compared to riding on dirt, riding on the street is actually quite boring.......Like most people said watch out for the idiots around you. I have a rule don't ride next to anyone, so if that means speed up to get ahead of them do it and if they want to speed up with you, then slow down and let them get ahead of you.......Biggest thing you can do is anticipate what the other drivers around you might want to do before they do it, this has saved my ass more than once......And if you ever end up with some jerkoff in a TR7 tailgating your ass when you get to the first light you can stop at and he tells you he's a cop, take the guy's offer up that is behind him and go fallow the guy and kick the living shit out of him!!!!...........

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              • #8
                Walt, NICE little pick up.

                You'll enjoy it, but sooner or later you'll crave some heavy firepower.

                I've been there, and I've gone through, and caved in to, those power cravings. All I can say is, like others have said, riding on the street can get boring (even at 3x the legal limit)... the dirt is where its at.

                And most of the time, if you crash in the dirt, all you get is dirty.
                Yes, I'm a CarJunkie... How many times would YOU rebuild the same engine before getting a crate motor?




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                • #9
                  I am signed up for a Michigan Basic Rider course from the 25th to the 27th. In Michigan if you complete the course you don't have to take the skills test, just the written and pay your endorsement fee. So that gives me about 3 weeks to get the few little issues it has put to rest, and get maybe get it a little shinier. Then I can ride it.


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                  • #10
                    Walt, I took the Ohio version of the same class. It was basic but very good at the same time. Well worth the small fee they charge for it.
                    I R Bob
                    You can't drink all day unless you start in the morning!
                    2007 LH, 2008 LH, 2009 LH, 2010 LH, 2011 LH, 2012 DNF/BLOW'D UP, 2013 LH, 2014 LH

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                    • #11
                      Those bikes make great cafe racers.

                            the story of the bike, written by Michael himself... on Bike Of The Week | Cafe Racer TV


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                      • #12
                        Whatcha hiding under the cover? I doubt you are as innocent as you are saying....
                        Still, rookie or expert...good score on the bike... if you can't see the driver's face in their mirrors... They can't see you..
                        Be wary of the car's blind spot, You will be fine!

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                        • #13
                          looks good! That's a 2:1 header - I don't think that was stock. If it was piped, it probably had carb work at the same time. Depending on when that was, it may be a real blessing.

                          All the stuff I mentioned I would do even if the PO told me it just got out of the shop unless they had receipts. lol. I will look in my pile, I might have the side cover for it if that one is missing. I think the one I had was the left side. It looks pretty good from the pics, I'd say you did good!

                          I have a soft spot for the orange, but the Blue is iconic as well. Dad had a SL125 that Mom sold before I had a chance at it (was not pleased). I really love the look of the twins and have looked at Sl350's a couple of times.

                          BTW - I don't think that is a CB tank, I think it is either a CL or an SL. I like those tanks better anyway. The CB tank has a flat bottom. I'm thinking that may be a CL and somebody put low pipe header on it? It will say on the steering head. CB's had one pipe down each side, the CL had a "scrambler" type mid pipe. Not quite as high as a dirt bike but not low like a street bike. Kind of in a good place to burn your calf / knee. You'll get burnt less with the low pipe, it probably looks sweet. May have a Hooker or Bassani pipe on it now.

                          More pics more pics more pics! Check the steering neck and see what it says? I'm really curious now.
                          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                          • #14
                            The more I look at it the more I think it is a CL, I think the seats were different too. This is a CL:



                            This is a CB:


                            and now I like your deal a lot better!

                            It should have a helmet lock that matches the ignition lock. Like GM and everyone else at the time, Honda didn't use many key masters, and a dealer probably has new already cut keys if you give him the number on the ignition lock (if it's still there).

                            They are pretty easy to wire, you might consider a "discreet" ignition kill switch so some jackass doesn't run off with the new mistress.

                            The aftermarket is blossoming for the CL - it was popular overseas and still is. There are Vietnamese companies that make reproduction parts for it, I'm not sure they didn't buy the original Honda tooling.

                            Officially jealous.
                            Last edited by Beagle; May 6, 2012, 07:23 AM.
                            Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                            • #15
                              I'd like to have one, too. For some reason I like the low pipe model better but either would be great.

                              Dan

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