Paint tech

[JOES66FURY]

So, been thinking about spraying the black ram black again.

The body is straight and it is a work truck so I am not worried about some waves or bumps. My issue is how do I go about prepping the paint. It is obviously clear coated and it is peeling badly. Most of the original clear is gone...

Toss some ideas out to me

[Barry Donovan]

clear gone and flaking. I would guess not real urethane

to go real two part urethane..the hardener of your choosing.
sand it down to a primer level, go at it again.

to analyze if it is just a real urethane having problems..light sand, some toluene and let it rip right back over it.

..and baking is the only way.
you could localize rear quarters with a heat gun, engine bay. they can even go beyond 200F in the baking. well worth it.

[Bamfster]

Maaco ...... $499 .....

[TC]

If the clear coat is pealing your have to sand that ALL OFF!!!!.........

[mlcraven]

What power sanding tools do you have access to?

CC a couple of months ago had a good article on prep using (surprise! surprise!) Eastwood products.

[Bamfster]

Let me preface this with "I have no clue when it comes to automotive paint".

In my internet searches, I have seen a few different companies that advertise adhesion promoters. Would that be something that would minimize the need to remove all of the flaking clear/paint?

[anotheridiot]

if the clear is peeling it sounds like someone tried an adhesion promoter and re clearing the truck at some point or they waited too much time to spay the clear after the black. just go over the whole truck with a DA til you start seeing black sanding dust so you know you got thru the clear. Do your best not to get down to bare metal if you can, spray a primer sealer and a good polyurethane black.

remember the simple rule to urethanes, more hardener means more dry time. it doesnt make it harder, it makes it softer longer.

[TC]

Let me preface this with "I have no clue when it comes to automotive paint".

In my internet searches, I have seen a few different companies that advertise adhesion promoters. Would that be something that would minimize the need to remove all of the flaking clear/paint?

The Adhesion additive is not going to do anything for the paint that is on the car and pealing, remember the new paint is going to get sprayed on top of the old paint, so if the old paint is pealing and you don't take care of it before you paint it, the new paint will peal to.........All the adhesion additive will do is make the new paint stick better to the old paint that is pealing off, but it's not going to prevent the old paint form pealing.....

[milner351]

I think the sand it down yourself and then take it to Maaco option has a lot of merit.

[Bob Holmes]

TC is correct, anything that is peeling has to come off. Or it'll come off later regardless of what you do. I'd follow Milner's plan, prep the car yourself and then take it to Maaco. If you have one close. Its worth the time to go over to them and ask what line of paint products they use, that way you can pick up the same if you need to and it'll match the product line. Mixing product lines is a recipe for problems.

[TheSilverBuick]

Maaco ...... $499 .....

Yup, if it's a zero bodywork deal, Maaco will sand the top layer off it anyways to create a surface for the new paint to adhere too. This is the route I'd go.

[Deaf Bob]

I think Joe wants some bonding time with his kid and show/teach him how to do it. Can hardly do that shipping it to Maaco?

Me? Taught my kids to use rollers and wide brushes.... Yep. House paint! Only needs to look good 24 hrs.. Gonna get bent anyway...

[Gary 351C]

Yup, if it's a zero bodywork deal, Maaco will sand the top layer off it anyways to create a surface for the new paint to adhere too. This is the route I'd go.

X3. In a few months I'm having the Crown Vic painted either at MAACO or ONE-DAY. I don't have the place, time or patience to sand the thing down myself.

[JOES66FURY]

if the clear is peeling it sounds like someone tried an adhesion promoter and re clearing the truck at some point or they waited too much time to spay the clear after the black. just go over the whole truck with a DA til you start seeing black sanding dust so you know you got thru the clear. Do your best not to get down to bare metal if you can, spray a primer sealer and a good polyurethane black.

remember the simple rule to urethanes, more hardener means more dry time. it doesnt make it harder, it makes it softer longer.

The clear coat on vehicles does not last long out here in the desert sun, it bakes off and peels.



Black dust, thats what I was looking for...even if I get it sprayed somewhere else....I want to prep it before it goes...that will give me and the kids something to do and make the process a little more special.


thanks all for the tips..

[Barry Donovan]

maine is that brutal as well.
I went with typical instructions, made a bumpy mess..
but oh the paint.
it was the real thing.
400 in paint alone.
iridecscent, paint code could have two part urethane only to finalize. there is some really nice stuff out there.

3 years went by after never sanding to a beautiful final coat simply fighting with localized errors...my own body mishaps.

I learned if you are outside medium hardener is good (advice the paint man finally coughed up for free). your hot sun might need the slow one.

heat gun the spots that get blasted, and firewall.. you can even do that by hand. waiting 20 minutes a real urethane can take 250F direct hit and tap it to see if its the density you want.

no end in sight after some of what I have done..in the good direction.