I'm almost finished painting my S-10 frame.. After that the suspension needs to go back in to make it a roller. I've read several threads online about how to do this. What methods do you guys use?
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Installing Front Coil Spring Into A Bare Frame
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leave them out till you have the rest of it put together...
Or use a threaded rod, thru the center of the spring. This works if the shock goes thru the spring, like on a 55 chevy. use a big threaded rod, 5/8 or so, and big thick washers. be careful.
or use a spring compressor..My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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or, just set the spring onto the lower arm, with the frame raised and no weight on it, then lower the frame onto the spring.
Seen it done with a jack under the frame, and a smaller jack under the arm. Just be careful as the weight on the spring increases, and make sure its lined up the whole time... and keep your fingers clear!!
Helps to have quite a bit of weight on the frame... like an engine or body etc.. lolYes, I'm a CarJunkie... How many times would YOU rebuild the same engine before getting a crate motor?
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You can also use some large chains to wrap around the jack and the frame to keep things from coming apart while trying to get things bolted up.
cheers
EdEd Nicholson - Caledon Ontario - a bit NW of Toronto
07 Mustang GT with some stuff
88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe 5-speed
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you could cut a coil (nice 1" drop) and it'll probably pop right in.
failing that. chain the frame to the axle of your jack - it eliminates the cost of pizza for fat friends.
to clarify that, the last time I did it, I started the assembly as normal - install lower arm, put spring in place, jacked up a bit to put it in tension - then I ran a chain through the middle of the coil (Corvette, so there's a space under the shock mount) and bolted both ends of the chain together around the axle of the jack.... then jacked away....
This warning is less for you and more to those who jump right in - please think when you're doing this, take your time, and if something is moving that shouldn't STOP. While it's unlikely that the spring could escape with the chain in the middle, there are lots of other potentials for death and dismemberment (maybe even both simultaneously) in using this methodLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 10, 2012, 05:06 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by anotheridiot View Postuse this concept, just flat plate on top and bottom. I hate these things, it takes longer to get the jaws out of the installed spring than it would have taken otherwise.Last edited by TC; September 12, 2012, 12:16 PM.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostI'm with AI on this one - I have a mostly pristine one in my toolbox (other then the slight scratch from me flinging it across the shop).
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Originally posted by Deaf Bob View PostLikewise... Got a Snap-On one.... Stripped.... Got flung outdoors... Tool man is hemming and hawing on warranty... Between my son and I..good $200+ a month on tools (mostly him, the bachelor) so he better cover it so we have a purty one to store in the tool box... Spend so much time fiddling with them, it is so much faster and just as dangerous any other way.. I like using binders with chain to get it close... There is a way with a Hi-lift jack.. Haven't been desperate enuff to use it yet...Doing it all wrong since 1966
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the first two sets of springs I installed were with a floor jack under the lower control arm and kicking the shit out of the spring while raising the jack. never had an easier time installing them, and I dont do the lowering route, I use big block A/C springs to get height. I would faster spend 30 bucks at mcmaster carr getting two plates and an acme threaded rod and nuts and just squeeze the frame and lower control arm together, which both compresses the spring and provides safety because an acme rod is not gonna let that spring escape.Last edited by anotheridiot; September 13, 2012, 03:28 PM.
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