Starting problem

[Livenut]

I bought a 67 Camaro last year and after I got it home, I noticed that it would not turn over after getting warm. If it is cold, it turns over just fine and starts after a couple of turns of the starter. If it has been run a short while to a long trip, it doesn't start as easy. I can get in an turn the key and all it does is click. I will turn the key a few times and finally it will turn over and eventually start. It is fustrating and embarssing. Any ideas on how to fix this? I have the time now to fix it if I can? I plan on going on the Power Tour this year and I don't want this to stop me from going.

Thanks,

Tory

[FRY383]

Hey,

I had a similar issue on one of my rides, it turned out the battery cables were too thin and couldn't handle the extra current draw needed to turn the motor over when the engine had been driven, got warm, and the clearances had tightened up.

The XE/XF Ford Falcons over here had a similar problem when new, too.

Mike

[redneckjoe69]

another thing you might try is a starter heat shield.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/starter-heat-shields?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending

it will help to shield exhaust heat from being soaked into the starter.

[Barry Donovan]

engine ground, cables.

the heat sheild is a great idea.

I remember helping to get the same problem right on a 327, and an oddball 301 pontiac.

alternators was the final swap, new battery to go with them.

..and flipping the coppers in the starter solenoids. keep the starters going.

[anotheridiot]

heat shield first. That usually can be helped by getting a high torque mini starter too, get that little extra torque, but a lot more room between the starter and exhaust.

[Bamfster]

Remote Ford style starter relay is the easy fix. It will provide full power to the starter motor which helps when the starter is heat soaked.

[squirrel]

Or you could do some diagnosing....I had a similar problem on my 55 for a long time, finally I got out the volt meter and discovered that the voltage on the purple wire, at the starter, dropped to about 7 volts. I added a relay to that circuit, now it starts great every time, hot or cold.

But first I'd make sure the battery, cables, cable attachment points, starter, etc are all in tip top shape.

[anotheridiot]

Remote Ford style starter relay is the easy fix. It will provide full power to the starter motor which helps when the starter is heat soaked.

I think that is an old wives tale. You still need the chevy solenoid to engage the starter gear regardless if you have a ford solenoid anyway. Nothing changes on the bottom end and everything stays heat soaked and the same issue. If its the power cable from the battery saturating the solenoid and making it hot, the ford solenoid will help, but its all exhaust temp and you dont run the starter without the chevy solenoid when you add the ford one.

[Bamfster]

I think that is an old wives tale. You still need the chevy solenoid to engage the starter gear regardless if you have a ford solenoid anyway. Nothing changes on the bottom end and everything stays heat soaked and the same issue. If its the power cable from the battery saturating the solenoid and making it hot, the ford solenoid will help, but its all exhaust temp and you dont run the starter without the chevy solenoid when you add the ford one.

Don't think its an old wives tale: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

I do also agree w/jim ... make sure everything is up to par before throwing parts at it.

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

the ford unit, works because when installed, you have replaced the old cables, and or. cleaned the connections when you installed it..personally, I'd put a 98-00 truck gear reduction starter on it. and call it a day.. I want to send a g.m. solenoid and starter case and nose, to jet hot and have it coated.. and see if that helps reject heat. just for giggles..

[Bamfster]

the ford unit, works because when installed, you have replaced the old cables, and or. cleaned the connections when you installed it..personally, I'd put a 98-00 truck gear reduction starter on it. and call it a day.. I want to send a g.m. solenoid and starter case and nose, to jet hot and have it coated.. and see if that helps reject heat. just for giggles..

Ummmm ... no its not solely due to the new cables and cleaning the connections. It has a lot to do with the power and how it is delivered to the starter.

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

Ummmm ... no its not solely due to the new cables and cleaning the connections. It has a lot to do with the power and how it is delivered to the starter.

um, the power is delived to the starter the same way, you only put a switch in the cable, nothing more.. it still goes to the same lug on the starter, the winding in the g.m. solenoid still have to work.. adding that relay(switch) didn't make the cable with a lot of resistance, magicly now not have any.. you'd get the same outcome by replacing the cables with good ones, clean connections, and making sure the ign crank wire is providing full voltage.. something 20y/o wiring in car and switch doesn't provide.. adding a bosch relay to the ign crank wire using it to turn on the relay, fixes this, if the power(voltage) drops from having to travel from batt, through engine harness, to dash harness, to switch,to n safety switch, to bulkhead connector,to engine harness, to starter.. to many dirty connections, in that route after 20+ years..

[Dan Barlow]

I've got a 95 LT1 it has a little gear reduction starter. I love it. And the sound it makes is cool too!

[Bamfster]

um, the power is delived to the starter the same way, you only put a switch in the cable, nothing more.. it still goes to the same lug on the starter, the winding in the g.m. solenoid still have to work.. adding that relay(switch) didn't make the cable with a lot of resistance, magicly now not have any.. you'd get the same outcome by replacing the cables with good ones, clean connections, and making sure the ign crank wire is providing full voltage.. something 20y/o wiring in car and switch doesn't provide.. adding a bosch relay to the ign crank wire using it to turn on the relay, fixes this, if the power(voltage) drops from having to travel from batt, through engine harness, to dash harness, to switch,to n safety switch, to bulkhead connector,to engine harness, to starter.. to many dirty connections, in that route after 20+ years..

Reason number 732 why I don't hang around here much anymore .... everyone knows EVERYTHING .... I feel inferior! LOL

[anotheridiot]

Don't think its an old wives tale: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

I do also agree w/jim ... make sure everything is up to par before throwing parts at it.

I am all for not having that live positive cable down there, and is the reason I run a ford solenoid, but it has no effect on keeping a solenoid and starter motor cool.