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  • #16
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    • #17
      Originally posted by NewEnglandRaceFan View Post
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]26636[/ATTACH]
      Take a closer look...I have the 80-81 vents already (functional)

      Last edited by AdvAutoBob; December 17, 2013, 08:30 PM.
      DW2013 - DNF (Gateway - trans failure)
      DW2014 - SR BB/PA class winner!
      DW2015 - Finished in 1 piece (for once!)
      DW2016 - Still "Fox Free" ;)

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      • #18
        only saw the hood...lol in this thread..

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        • #19
          56 cools fine.
          I Don't,
          so at PRI Show I brought a Cool Shirt.

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          • #20
            Looking good. A bunch of guys just ditched their hoods and that seemed to help a lot.

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            • #21
              Some thoughts on this please. I run the stock flat unvented hood still with no intentions of changing it. I thought about cutting some holes in the inner fenders near the rear to help get heat out. Any thoughts on how much that would help? The car will most likely end up with headers(someday) that pass a tube through there anyways.
              1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 340 with a 360
              1997 Jeep Cherokee off road toy/driver. lifted, lockers, stroked 4.0

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              • #22
                Unless it would vent directly outside the body, I'd think it wouldn't work... By cutting a hole into the inner fender, the air trying to get in would run into the air trying to vent while the car is at speed. At least that's the way I see it.
                DW2013 - DNF (Gateway - trans failure)
                DW2014 - SR BB/PA class winner!
                DW2015 - Finished in 1 piece (for once!)
                DW2016 - Still "Fox Free" ;)

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by AdvAutoBob View Post
                  Unless it would vent directly outside the body, I'd think it wouldn't work... By cutting a hole into the inner fender, the air trying to get in would run into the air trying to vent while the car is at speed. At least that's the way I see it.
                  Kind of what I was thinking as well I just wanted to see if anyone else felt the same. Thanks!
                  1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 340 with a 360
                  1997 Jeep Cherokee off road toy/driver. lifted, lockers, stroked 4.0

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by BlueCuda340 View Post
                    Some thoughts on this please. I run the stock flat unvented hood still with no intentions of changing it. I thought about cutting some holes in the inner fenders near the rear to help get heat out. Any thoughts on how much that would help? The car will most likely end up with headers(someday) that pass a tube through there anyways.
                    Clark Before I put the hood on with the scoop and vents that I now run I had a stock hood. I would just loosen the hinge bolts and raise the rear of the hood as far as possible. It did help quite a bit. My car still uses the stock radiator that it came with. Ross

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                    • #25
                      my hood and aprons are sealed up and i have not had any cooling issues. spal fans that cover 95% of the radiator. i also have two trans coolers and a oil cooler in front.

                      Another thing to look at is the tune up you have in the car.

                      Tim
                      86 Mustang
                      454 LSX FTI ls3 Mast 4500 Holley EFI 8" with C4, FTI Hyd Roller 9.24 143.5 1.33 3.73 5.84 116.21

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                      • #26
                        Airflow through the grill, radiator, engine compartment along with ensuring the coolest inlet air temp for the engine requires a systematic approach. The more you can control air flow to the top and sides on the car and provide just enough aperture to the radiator/coolers the better the negative pressure under the car will help with cooling. The '13 Mustang extractors will pull heat out of the engine compartment and into the windshield so a cowl scoop will be compromised. The factory ford setup has deflectors so that rain will run back and out to hopefully harmless areas. The best solution I found to under hood temps is opened fender wells and controlled grill openings. I also use ceramic coated headers, which makes more difference than almost anything else, and I put the fuel pressure regulator and lines off to the side as far as possible. The middle front looks good but sucks for sustained driving.
                        Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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