Rescue rig project

[Deaf Bob]

I make the cables for the derby cars outa 2/0 welder wire.. Not gonna say where I get the short sections I need but they work great..
Running 900+ CCA batteries in parrallel melts any store bought cables..
You always get a little voltage drop with any cable.. But very little with 2/0
Even my jumper cables that are extra long are 2/0 The clamps will go first.. I can even start batteryless cars with those cables..
I found out that deep cycle batteries do not do well in derbies..
I use group 31 (with the screw posts) they , if depleted will self rise back to start a hot motor..
Trickle chargers will discharge a full group 31
Food for thought..

[SuperBuickGuy]

So I spent most of the day working on RR, replaced the clutch fan (big problem is it doesn't come on when it starts to heat up). Fixed the transmission line. Pulled the entire heater assembly out (I promise to have two extra bolts when I'm done ), but couldn't put it back together because the parts I bought didn't fit. So tomorrow, I'll get that wrapped up and weld up the hole in the exhaust... maybe even put the rest of the gauges in it and replace the driver's side power window motor (it won't go down when its cold).

all just so it's sellable.... seems like I wasted my day

[yellomalibu]

So I spent most of the day working on RR, replaced the clutch fan (big problem is it doesn't come on when it starts to heat up). Fixed the transmission line. Pulled the entire heater assembly out (I promise to have two extra bolts when I'm done ), but couldn't put it back together because the parts I bought didn't fit. So tomorrow, I'll get that wrapped up and weld up the hole in the exhaust... maybe even put the rest of the gauges in it and replace the driver's side power window motor (it won't go down when its cold).

all just so it's sellable.... seems like I wasted my day

If it was bad, it needed to be replaced anyway... but this link may prove valuable to you at some point. It just seems like good stuff to know. I'm glad I read it.

http://midamericachevelles.com/Fan_Clutch_Adjust.pdf

[SuperBuickGuy]

If it was bad, it needed to be replaced anyway... but this link may prove valuable to you at some point. It just seems like good stuff to know. I'm glad I read it.
http://midamericachevelles.com/Fan_Clutch_Adjust.pdf

quite helpful, thanks

before the turbo, the diesel never got hot.

[milner351]

I pulled the clutch fan off my older diesels in the winter - the IDI NEVER got hot... even in traffic. they're cooled sufficiently to haul huge loads, when running empty, they don't sweat. I ran a tiny electric fan instead of the 25hp sucking (when fully locked) clutch fan on the 97 - never got hot either.

eventually I'll put the gauges, good exhaust, coolant filter, electric fans, fabbed bumper, etc, on the current truck, right after i clone myself or give up sleeping.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Mine got hot because I was breaking a trail in several feet of snow at 6000 feet, and the fan did not engage.

[SuperBuickGuy]

So rescue rig got some love today.... trying to figure out why my power windows are slow
I also worked on the charging system - the alternator did not like melting the wire - so now it's really struggling to keep charging..... so I have a new one on its way - I'll rebuild this one and put it on the shelf for the next car that needs an alternator.
I bought new motors for it, installed one last week, but, while it was better - the window went all the way up - it's still really slow.... So today I checked fuses, connections.... but still nada
I have a good ground, I have good connections

maybe not enough power? anyone ever figured out why GM power windows go slow?

[milner351]

SBG - I think (very long time ago) there's a way to free up the guides / slides in the tracks so they don't grab the windows so much.

If nothing else - clear silicone sprayed into all the rubber bits should reduce the friction enough to make a noticeable difference on how fast the windows go up and down.

Have you checked the resistance of the wires coming and going? - no pinches / shorts in the sleeve between the door and door frame?

[TheSilverBuick]

I've slathered all my power window rails, gears, etc. with the silver anti-sieze then back it with spray silicon at the hinge points. The power window's in my Centurion and Thunderbird move decently quick.

[SuperBuickGuy]

they're slathered.... silicone on the rails, grease on the moving bits....

I guess my question should be more focused - is it possible it's not getting enough power? if so, other than the connections; where might the issue be?
In this case, I hope that it's the same issue for both windows - but no guarantee, I guess.
I will check what John suggested, but I'd be pretty surprised if that was it given both windows have the same issue....

[milner351]

how's that circuit at the fuse block?

Run a 12v straight from the battery and see if it changes anything?

[SuperBuickGuy]

how's that circuit at the fuse block?

Run a 12v straight from the battery and see if it changes anything?

sounds like a good plan - if anything it'd tell me whether or not it's the positive side or negative side that's my problem

[milner351]

old fuse blocks do funny things at times.

another option is to put a clamp on ammeter on the wires - see if it pulls more or less amps straight off the battery - that will give you data that's measurable to know there's too much resistance in the factory wiring.

or - it may be that all older GM window setups are slow compared to newer cars like your H3.

[DanStokes]

John tree'd me. I was thinking an ammeter would tell the tale. If it's high (not sure what value = high) either the motor is drawing too much or there's mechanical resistance somewhere.

Dan

[JOES66FURY]

is it both or just one? I would hot wire the motor to see if it speeds up, that will tell you right now if the motor is worn or there is a power supply problem. My 2 cents...
try to bypass the switch and see if maybe the switch is the culprit....