Anyone know...

[98ciHemi]

I'll take a look the numbers on the bike when I bring it home. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it is- the only reason that I said CB350 when I first saw it was because it had the low to the ground exhaust. I'd like to get rid of the 2 into 1 pipe, preferably for regular CL pipe. The pipe on it now is normally unbaffled, and apparently extremely loud. Now comes the fun part of the story. owner decided that he would get a baffle made for the pipe, so he asked the career tech center machine shop and welding shop to do it. This was two years ago. I was part of the group that sat around the table and sketched out the baffle for the pipe. If anyone remembers the kid with the '76 Nova, I believe he made all the parts for the baffle before we sent to be welded up. We designed it to be quiet, and it's was pretty restrictive. I might be able to make a new baffle for it, but I'd like to find an original pipe if I can.

[DanStokes]

My memory of them is that they had a nice putt but not objectionably loud. Mr. Honda was pretty good engineer.

Dan

[Beagle]

http://www.jpcycles.com/baffles

might have something that will work in the pipe you have to quiet it down until you can find what you want?

[STINEY]

Walt, nice score.

Old bearing races make good starts to good homebuilt baffles. They come in assorted sizes, pick 2.

One that fits the outlet nicely, close to the end or up to an inch in from the end is a good place. Drill and tap the bearing in at least 2 places, then drill the pipe outlet and use a screw with a good lockwasher.

Do the same thing with a smaller race, except you can skip the drill/tap routine. You want it about 8"-12" in from the first race.

Weld a washer with approximately a 1 1/2" hole onto each race. Then weld a 3"-4" long 1 1/2" tube to each washer, and then connect the 2 tubes with a third tube the same size, only do not weld them in line. Weld the 3rd tube onto the top of the other tubes.

When done, the airflow will have to change directions twice, the first time when it reverses into the first offset tube, and the second when it again reverses into the tube welded to the final outlet.

I've run this baffle on my 1980 1100cc Suzuki for 17 years. It has a nice muscle sound to it, deep and serious down low, when it gets into the 7000+rpm range it is very snarly. Not loud and obnoxious though.

I'm on my third one. The original was all sheetmetal, could only weld up the cracks so many times. The second I lost when the screw backed out, it flew way out in a field. The third I used a second screw and so far fine.

This link shows a picture of what I'm talking about. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/PhotoDe...3-2015-2013-13

You might want to downsize the tube sizes for your machine, but the principle is the same. And no fiberglass packing is necessary, it wouldn't last long anyways.

This design also will allow you to ride where spark arrestors are required. Straight thru designs will not pass, while the reverse flow will function as a spark arrestor. Might come in handy if you go to some state parks?

As far as restrictive, it does move the powerband around for me, taking it out verses leaving it in. Power is the same, but it peaks about 2000 rpm lower with the baffle in. Fairly unimportant as the 1100 will do 60 in first gear, and has 5 gears.

[TC]

This is a CL:

CL must stand for "Chard Leg"............

[98ciHemi]

So, I've got it home. I've started making a list of improvements to make but so far I have found nothing that needs to be done before I can ride it save for a new taillight housing. If I learn to ride it well I would like to try and clone the bike in the American release of "The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo", save for a bit of nose are on the gas tank.

Better pictures that actually show more of the dings and imperfections, the other ones were just snagged from the CL ad:

[DanStokes]

Now I'm REALLY jealous! That's a sweet ol' bike.

Dan

[PatricksDad]

With those highway pegs, you'll be cruisin' in style!

A menace, but with style.