Trying to find out if anyone is using a air fuel ratio meter/gauge on their drag car with a carburetor. If so, which one are you using, and what are its pros and cons. Any problems with using racing fuel? Interested to hear.
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innovate LC-1 http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php connected to an LED panel mount digital volt meter. Works good, they say the sensor won't last too long with leaded fuel, but I just run pump gas so it's not a problem for me.
you need to do some programming with a laptop to set it up, it's not difficult, but read up before you buy.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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you should buy one for the T bird and let us know how it worksMy fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Originally posted by greenXpress View PostInovate got off of ebay and working well. $160.00Previously boxer3main
the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.
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Originally posted by DanStokes View PostAs Squirrel noted, lead in fuel will foul the sensor by essentially coating the element. As long as you're running unleaded you'll be fine. You want a wide band unit - much more range for tuning.
Dan
I have a number of customers running leaded race fuel with hundreds of run hours on a single sensor. The trick is to not put wet leaded fuel on the sensor, I.e. get the tune roughed in before you install the sensor helps a lot.
Jim Neuenfeldt ran the same NTK sensor with an FJO kit running strictly C16 fuel in his twin turbo truck the entire time he owned the truck. It lasted three Drag Weeks so, I'd say his wideband is perfectly safe with leaded fuel.www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!
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Interesting! The sensor manufacturers warned us against running them in a leaded fuel environment (we were doing some industrial engine work and were considering running leaded as some end users do). The sensor manufacturers waved us off of the concept. Your practical, hands-on knowledge trumps the theoretical stuff we were told! Thanks for the insight.
Dan
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I'd suggest whichever brand has a 5v/Analog output and uses the cheaper Bosch LSU4.x sensors. The analog output so you can attach external ECUs or dataloggers, and the cheaper sensor if you're going through the EFI learning curve and might foul one out.
The PLX I have used (an old one) worked great and had the Analog output and I think it used the Bosch LSU sensors. The 8 NGK AFX units I have now, also have the analog output but use the more expensive NTK sensors. I am happy with both (when my EMC buddies aren't shorting them out, ha)www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!
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Guys thanks for the information. Looking at the PLX M-300. Seems simple and expandable. Since everyone is in Vegas (lucky bastards) I'm going to wait to have a few days to have a few tech questions answered by their help desk. I let you know how it goes.
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