ImpalaSam's project

[ImpalaSam]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

No that is not a factory bracket. The repop one I bought looked kind of weak so I made my own. It is 1/4" thick instead of 3/16" like the one I bought. I also changed the way it was bent, I think it is stronger than the way the factory one is made. I welded it onto the frame while the body was off, easier that way. I had a mock up block to help align it. I also had an assembly manual to check against.

The Z-bar I made. The arms are mild steel that I cnc cut out of billet. The tube is DOM tubing.
I cut steps on the tube and welded on the arms. I cut the ends where the pivot balls ride after welding to eliminate any deformation from the heat.

The rods are just 4130 tubing that I tapped 3/8 - 24 for the rod ends. The lower rod uses a capscrew that I ground a radius on to push against the release arm. I think it was 1/2 x .083 wall tubing so I would not have to drill, just tap.

All this was a lot of work that probably wasn't necessary but I enjoy that part of it, just makes for a looong project.

[TheSilverBuick]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

All this was a lot of work that probably wasn't necessary but I enjoy that part of it, just makes for a looong project.

And a bunch of envious people ;D

The Z-bar bracket on my Skylark (X-body) was bolt on, but mine is welded in place after it was bolted on.

[squirrel]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

looks like something he made? I hope it works right, looks like it might have too much angle at the engine end--I think at half pedal travel, the arm and linkage rod want to be at right angles. I've encountered problems with not enough travel, the clutch won't release fully if you adjust it to have free play.

[mike343sharpstick]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

Is the rag-joint area correct, I think the connection needs to be turned 90-degrees?
In other words, the column gets screwed to the rubber only, and the rubber connects solidly to the steering box.
May want to double check.

[Scott Liggett]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

No that is not a factory bracket. The repop one I bought looked kind of weak so I made my own. It is 1/4" thick instead of 3/16" like the one I bought. I also changed the way it was bent, I think it is stronger than the way the factory one is made. I welded it onto the frame while the body was off, easier that way. I had a mock up block to help align it. I also had an assembly manual to check against.

The Z-bar I made. The arms are mild steel that I cnc cut out of billet. The tube is DOM tubing.
I cut steps on the tube and welded on the arms. I cut the ends where the pivot balls ride after welding to eliminate any deformation from the heat.

The rods are just 4130 tubing that I tapped 3/8 - 24 for the rod ends. The lower rod uses a capscrew that I ground a radius on to push against the release arm. I think it was 1/2 x .083 wall tubing so I would not have to drill, just tap.

All this was a lot of work that probably wasn't necessary but I enjoy that part of it, just makes for a looong project.

Very cool. Wanna make another one? hehe.

[ImpalaSam]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

looks like something he made? I hope it works right, looks like it might have too much angle at the engine end--I think at half pedal travel, the arm and linkage rod want to be at right angles. I've encountered problems with not enough travel, the clutch won't release fully if you adjust it to have free play.

All the clutch linkage is based off of factory pieces, the new ones are dimensionally the same just beefed up. The angles do look a little off but I haven't done any adjusting I just threw the rods on to see how close I was. I don't think I will be able to achieve the perfect mechanical leverage angles but If the factory stuff worked so should mine. I have found a few pictures of factory linkage over at ChevyTalk and the angles are not that far off from mine. I am guessing there must have been some compromises with the factory stuff but who knows. The only thing that I didn't have a factory piece on was the clutch release arm. Supposedly the Impala arms are straight and no one repops them. I started with a bent arm and made it straight. I won't be able to make the final adjustments until the car is drivable then I can see where things need to be.

[ImpalaSam]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

Is the rag-joint area correct, I think the connection needs to be turned 90-degrees?
In other words, the column gets screwed to the rubber only, and the rubber connects solidly to the steering box.
May want to double check.

I'm pretty sure it's on correct, maybe the pictures make it look off. The column is mounted to the rubber like you say.
There are two rivets that are through the part that mounts to the box and they ride in the grooves in the column flange.
I guess they are there in case the rubber fails the car will still steer, just have some play. There is a thin metal connector between the two bolts maybe that is what you are seeing, it connects the two bolts but does not connect to the flange attached to the box. I appreciate the comment when you take a care completely apart things do tend to get missed.

[mike343sharpstick]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

I just looked a little closer, I see what you mean, yeah that's right. I just went through that process a few months back. :P
Yeah, that thin (shiny) metal part is what was throwing me off. :

[ImpalaSam]

Re: ImpalaSam's project


Worked on the brakes some tonight. I am going to use a hydraboost for the power assist. The system is mostly from an Astro van but I used some parts from other cars to get what I wanted. I am still in the mock up stage and I hope this all comes together.

Here is the stock mounting bracket from the Astro Van.




I had to weld a little piece onto the top, which used to be the bottom. The Hydraboost has a keyway where it mounts and I wanted to clock it 180 from where it was originally so I had to flip the bracket. There was a little of the original hole showing in the firewall so I added to the bracket.




Here is the unit mounted to the firewall. I used the m/c from the van but I wanted the reservoir from a car w/o the hydraboost, just my preference as the res. used on the van is made odd to clear the hoodline. Anyway I had to go through about five m/c's to get what I wanted ( had some unfortunate incidents while removing reservoirs). I had to enlarge the holes in the firewall but they were pretty close.










Here is a shot from under the dash of how the clevis mounts up. I removed the original rod from the Hydraboost and made up one that would connect the booster to the original clevis from the car.

[Scott Liggett]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

This is one of those 'future projects' I wanted to try to do on my Impala.

[Turbo Regal]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

Ah, yes! Treasures from the Pull a Part!

[ImpalaSam]

Re: ImpalaSam's project


Made some progress on the project this weekend. I installed a new carpet and put the interior back together.

It's kind of hard to see the carpet, lighting wasn't very good for pictures.









The interior is original but in nice shape, the pictures make it look better than it is though. I still have to
restore the console. It is complete and in good condition, just needs new carpet and some detailing.
The carpet color is dark saddle but I have not been able to find the console carpet kit in that color so it
make take a while to get that finished.

[Scott Liggett]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

Don't see many SS's with tan interior. What was the original exterior color?

[Morgan]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

What a nice car. Very clean work. Love it.

[NAS Backyard]

Re: ImpalaSam's project

I like the clutch pivot hardware. I think I may rob the 4 gear out of my Firebird to put behind the 455 Olds....