The Silver Bullitt '68 Mustang GT

[Silver68RT]

How you doin?

I'm doing pretty good. Didn't get much done this summer, but starting to make some progress now. How's the new job going?

[min301]

You heard I went back to the Midas in Okemos?

I had to...less hours, more money, no brainer.

[Silver68RT]

You heard I went back to the Midas in Okemos?

I had to...less hours, more money, no brainer.

That sounds awesome, good for you.

Anyone have an opinion on windage trays, screen vs. louvers? I ordered a Moroso louvered style for the 390, and got a Canton screen style instead. I'm planning on running the stock pan with an extra quart of oil, and I thought the louvered style might do a better job keeping the oil in the pan from getting whipped up. With the HV oil pump, and the 4.30 gear, I'm a little concerned about pumping all the oil to the top end and running into oil starvation issues if I get out on the highway.

Am I just being paranoid, or should I get a deep sum oil pan. I've already got a repro stock pan painted and ready to install.

[min301]

I prefer the screens myself, and a deeper, larger capacity pan would likely be
a good idea, considering intended use, and the added capacity is cheap insurance.

[Cyclone03]

The canton piece is nice.
Shop Precision Oil Pumps for your Rocker/shaft/spacer needs.He also has a proven oil pmp drive. and Oil pumps and pickups
You can also shop Survival as you know.
May as well get Jay Browns intake bible too. FePower.net

I'm running the Canton Road Race pan with full baffle's and Canton windage tray and pick up.
P.O.P complete roller rocker set up,oil pumpand drive and pushrods.

You can limit the oil to the top end by just dropping a 5/16 18 **(corse thread)piece of all thread cut to about(less) 1/2" long into the oil passage below the rocker pedastall that feeds the shafts,don't worry it wont go anywhere unless you crank the engine with the shafts off. If you go with any cam change get at least a set of end stands for the rocker shafts.**it may be 1/4 20 it's been awhile,I'm useing Edelbrock heads now.


Your low idle vacuum could be an intake leak,have you pulled plugs and checked for oily ones?

BTW the machined off piece on the intake is stock.

Very cool car do (change) as little as posible it's neat as it is,except for the lack of export brace.

Scott at CamResearch is a good guy that knows how to cam an FE (yes I have one) the more engine info you give the better.

Truth is Barry at Survival has some pretty interesting small Hyd rollers too.......but it's about twice the cost of a flat tappet solid.

Check the list numbers on the carbs including -letters. BC/BD I think are the 427 pieces. What position are they?

Truth is you may have some good pieces there that will work well,even on a 390,with just some tuning. Big vacuum carbs can be toned down with black secoundary springs,proper power valves and careful jetting.More initail timing 15-18* as long as you can start it hot,and total limited to about 36-38* brings them to life on todays crap gas.

Is the car an "S"code?

[Silver68RT]

The canton piece is nice.
Shop Precision Oil Pumps for your Rocker/shaft/spacer needs.He also has a proven oil pmp drive. and Oil pumps and pickups
You can also shop Survival as you know.
May as well get Jay Browns intake bible too. FePower.net

I'm running the Canton Road Race pan with full baffle's and Canton windage tray and pick up.
P.O.P complete roller rocker set up,oil pumpand drive and pushrods.

You can limit the oil to the top end by just dropping a 5/16 18 **(corse thread)piece of all thread cut to about(less) 1/2" long into the oil passage below the rocker pedastall that feeds the shafts,don't worry it wont go anywhere unless you crank the engine with the shafts off. If you go with any cam change get at least a set of end stands for the rocker shafts.**it may be 1/4 20 it's been awhile,I'm useing Edelbrock heads now.


Your low idle vacuum could be an intake leak,have you pulled plugs and checked for oily ones?

BTW the machined off piece on the intake is stock.

Very cool car do (change) as little as posible it's neat as it is,except for the lack of export brace.

Scott at CamResearch is a good guy that knows how to cam an FE (yes I have one) the more engine info you give the better.

Truth is Barry at Survival has some pretty interesting small Hyd rollers too.......but it's about twice the cost of a flat tappet solid.

Check the list numbers on the carbs including -letters. BC/BD I think are the 427 pieces. What position are they?

Truth is you may have some good pieces there that will work well,even on a 390,with just some tuning. Big vacuum carbs can be toned down with black secoundary springs,proper power valves and careful jetting.More initail timing 15-18* as long as you can start it hot,and total limited to about 36-38* brings them to life on todays crap gas.

Is the car an "S"code?

Thanks for the info. I grew up a Mopar guy, so I'm still learning the ways of the FE Ford. I've already got an ARP oil pump drive and Melling HV pump and pickup for a stock pan but I'll definitely take a look at P.O.P.'s rocker stands and that Canton pan.

Unfortunately, the gentleman who knew what was in the engine died, so I'm a little bit in the dark as to what's been done to it. They mounted a remote vacuum can to try and get the brake booster to work, and it just doesn't seem to work. I have not pulled the plugs, but that sounds like a good idea, although getting to the driver's side ones looks like a bitch. My gut feeling is that there's just too much overlap on the cam to make vacuum at idle. I'm pretty sure the car spent some time as a street racer.

I do have repro shock tower braces (2-piece), just haven't installed them yet.

The carbs are BJ/BK, and I'm pretty sure they're off a 427.

It is an "S" code, original 4-speed, and special order paint (blank on door tag). I can't imagine there were too many silver '68 Mustang GT 390 4-speeds built since that wasn't a standard color that year. It's in really good shape, just needs some sorting out.

[Beagle]

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/piston-bore-clearance-spec-157686.html

on the pistons - maybe longer rods than stock? I'd be tempted to pull it down, measure it, and find out for sure. Lowering compression by dropping the piston deck into the bores sounds like a recipe for PING... and you really want to know all that before making a cam choice anyway. Deck height and gasket thickness have a huge effect on CR, lots more than I would have thought.

[milner351]

You know you want to buy the 4.25" stroker crank and rods for that thing man - just get it over with!

enable, enable, enable....

[Cyclone03]

Yes a good stroker kit is just a few dollars more than having the old crank refinished,rods redone and new pistons.
Then all of a sudden that 2X4 set up is just right. Besides you have to find out what cam is in it,just pull it and have a look,then while your in there.....

How am I doing milner?

[Cyclone03]

Getting plus out

Get a flex head ratchet,mine is a Craftsman WITHOUT the screw driver type handle and no off set. A 1" 3/8 drive extension and 13/16 spark plug socket.Getting under the booster is a B1#$%,it can be easier with the valve covers off.

[milner351]

Cyclone - the best part is - I have the stroker crank and rods - he just has to pay me for them!

I got a ready to go short block with the whole jetboat deal that I'm going to use - so the stroker crank / rods is just sitting there, still in the factory plastic waiting for him! ;-)

[Silver68RT]

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/pist...ec-157686.html

on the pistons - maybe longer rods than stock? I'd be tempted to pull it down, measure it, and find out for sure. Lowering compression by dropping the piston deck into the bores sounds like a recipe for PING... and you really want to know all that before making a cam choice anyway. Deck height and gasket thickness have a huge effect on CR, lots more than I would have thought.

That's bizarre. Why would you buy pistons intended for a 390 with a 428 crank (making it a 410 without changing the rods), and then use a 390 crank? That makes no sense. Yet another WTF?! with this car. I found the missing chunk of spring washer and some seriously mangled pieces of cotter pin in the old dented oil pan yesterday.

I'm starting to seriously consider pulling the 390 and dropping in the rebuilt 428 SCJ I've got sitting on a stand. That one was intended for my '69 Mach 1 project that came to a screeching halt when I bought the '68 GT. Then I could tear down the 390 and really see what's going on and still have a driveable car. And maybe buy John's stroker kit for the 390. The headers do have 4 bolt holes per port, so they should work with the CJ heads.

[milner351]

I'm going to have a spare set of roller rockers too ;-)

[Cyclone03]

Your the dev-il........

[TheSilverBuick]

Your the dev-al........