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Stripped Holley bowl screw fix how-to.

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  • Stripped Holley bowl screw fix how-to.

    I did this last night and thought I'd throw up a little how-to.

    I had 2 that were fully stripped and 3 others that looked like they were on their way out. Such is the caveat of buying used parts sometimes. Luckily, the fix is fairly easy.

    Step 1: Buy a 12-24 Helicoil kit. I bought mine at NAPA, but they can be purchased online or other places as well. The NAPA one comes with 12 inserts so you have plenty for all 8 bowl screws.


    Step 2: Assuming the carb has been removed from the vehicle, pull the bowls and metering plates off the carb.

    Step 3: Mask off the entire metering plate area and anything else that you do not want metal chips in.


    Step 4: Locate holes thru the tape and carefully drill out the holes with the recommended 15/64" bit. It drills really easy, so if you go slow and you can control the metal chips much better.

    Step 5: Tap the holes. Go slow and keep the tap lubricated with something like WD-40. This promotes cleaner cutting and also helps the chips stick in the flutes of the tap. Turn the tap 3/4 turn at a time, and then a 1/4 turn back. Repeat until tap reaches the bottom of the hole. Resist the urge to just screw the tap straight in as this can lead to galling and possibly a broken tap.


    Step 6: After tapping all the holes you need to repair, thoroughly clean the holes and remove the tape. Insert the Helicoil using the provided tool. They can be a little irritating to get started sometimes, so be patient. Screw them in until the top of the coil is at least a 1/4 turn down into the hole to prevent them from pulling out. Take a small punch that will fit inside the insert and with a sharp tap, break off the installation tab from the bottom of the insert.


    Step 7: Sometimes, the holes will have a slightly raised lip after drilling and tapping. Take a small file and gently smooth this lip off.


    Step 8: Put the plates and bowls back on and you are ready to run!
    Last edited by BBR; September 28, 2012, 07:07 AM.
    Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
    1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
    1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
    1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
    1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
    1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

  • #2
    Well done! Doing the helicoil on the throttlebody is more difficult that you'd think because the screw has to pass thru the bowl and that puts the head of the screw a good distance away from the helicoil - if the helicoil is the slightest bit crooked the screw will bind up. To do as many as you did without a fixture is very impressive. Very good work.
    A Carter Carb Shop, sales and service

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    • #3
      The first time I tried that I didn't get the helicoil far enough in, and it wouldn't tighten up enough against the bowl and probably would have leaked. They would probably cost more, but it would be cool if throttle bodys came with inserts in there.
      Originally posted by TC
      also boost will make the cam act smaller

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      • #4
        Nice how to James. Normally when I do a heli coil, I add a slight amount of thread lock to the coil. I don't know how that would go with the exposure to fuel though .... probably not a good idea.
        Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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        • #5
          Nice write up James! I helicoiled the oil pump housing bolt holes in my old aluminum 455 timing cover a few years ago. Got a NAPA kit just like that one. Worked great.
          Escaped on a technicality.

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          • #6
            When at the track take and jam a couple tooth picks in the hole and tighten the screw. Have used fishing line and string too on the screw threads
            2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
            First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
            2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
            2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

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            • #7
              Step 9. Stop using the impact to install bowl screws.
              BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

              Resident Instigator

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              • #8
                Helicoils are for hacks, the professionals use TimeSert's......

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                And good job on the write up.......

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by TC View Post
                  Helicoils are for hacks, the professionals use TimeSert's......

                  threaded inserts threaded, stripped threads, threaded inserts, blown out sparkplugs, stripped threads, stripped out theads, inserts threaded inserts, ford sparkplug repair, threaded insert thread repair spark plug ford blown, blew out ford sparkplug, stripped theads, threads stripped out, threaded inserts for stripped threads, repairing stripped threads, thread repair kits and inserts, repairing sparkplugs threads, sparkplugs threads have stripped out, screw thread inserts, striped out threads, threaded inserts, automobile threads blown out, motorcycle threads stripped out threads, not helicoil use time-sert thread repair, screw thread insert, inserts for screw threads, screw thead inserts have stripped out


                  And good job on the write up.......
                  I was not going to say anything about heli coils, glad you did.
                  when aluminum goes that far, more than one hole.. it may be safe to blame the wrench turner..but there is a chance some serious stuff hit the metallurgy to make it strip out.

                  brakleen or something known to really clean something before even trying. me? I'd be baking those tiny parts to 400 to 500 F for twenty minutes..squeak a new thread in. helicoil/time sert.

                  an old subaru engine is alot like a holley carb material, rochester too.(imagine a whole engine that could have that frustration)
                  Previously boxer3main
                  the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
                    Step 9. Stop using the impact to install bowl screws.
                    I thought everybody use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to put them in?

                    Used parts.... who knows how they were treated before I got them. Remember that this is the same carb that the PO drilled the IFR's out to a huge size.
                    Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                    1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                    1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                    1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                    1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                    1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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                    • #11
                      Holly carbs are a zinc rich aluminum die casting. They are harder than if they were just made out of aluminum.

                      and thanks for calling everyone hacks TC. I know Helicoils being a spring will not leak, if your counterbore step for your "professional" inserts isnt flat I doubt the thread would hold fuel.

                      If you order online you can get tangless inserts so you dont have to bust off the tang in the soft carburetor body. Really surprised more people dont decide to use studs on the metering block and bowls.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
                        Holly carbs are a zinc rich aluminum die casting. They are harder than if they were just made out of aluminum.

                        and thanks for calling everyone hacks TC. I know Helicoils being a spring will not leak, if your counterbore step for your "professional" inserts isnt flat I doubt the thread would hold fuel.

                        If you order online you can get tangless inserts so you dont have to bust off the tang in the soft carburetor body. Really surprised more people dont decide to use studs on the metering block and bowls.
                        I've used TimeSerts on everything from head bolts to water pump bolts, never had them stick up above the surface and never had one leak.......... Put it this way I'd take a precision machined solid insert over a coiled up piece of wire any day.......

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                        • #13
                          Man I love this feature.

                          THIS MESSAGE IS HIDDEN BECAUSE TC IS ON YOUR IGNORE LIST.
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                          Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                          1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                          1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                          1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                          1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                          1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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                          • #14
                            Just curious....it's hard to tell from the pictures, is the body of that carb zinc or aluminum? It looks like zinc.
                            My fabulous web page

                            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                            • #15
                              Studs would work in some cases, but in a lot of cases, studs won't work because the bowls and metering plates would run into distributors and other things on the way off the studs....

                              On a slightly related topic - James - did you find a reference on where to start with the adjustable air bleeds?
                              There's always something new to learn.

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