Has anyone tried the Summit racing line of automotive paint? I just bought a truck that I intend to fix and flip. It is pretty solid but needs a paint job. I don't have a lot of experience painting, but the Summit line looks like a cost effective route for the DIY guy to get a decent paint job. I'm looking at a single-stage metallic green urethane.
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Summit racing paint
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I've heard mixed reviews - also check out "paint for cars" or similar name on ebay - they have packaged kits as well, sealer, primer, reducer paint, etc all together for great prices - lots of positive feedback and comments.
SBG used metallic summit paint on his disco vette - he's had a few issues with the flexible bumpers - but that wouldn't be an issue on steel.
Seth painted the cadet with summit gold - it didn't shine evenly.There's always something new to learn.
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Word on the street is that the Summit paint is Dupli-Color, which is REALLY Sherwin-Williams. I haven't sprayed any but most paint stores have a second line of products - DuPont, for example, has Nason. Our former PPG store just converted to Sikkens (they have several other brand names too) with the cheap line being Wanda. Anyhow, they can probably match the Summit price pretty closely and you have the advantage of local help if needed and you support local businesses. I've found the local support to be beyond value - they'll pull your fat out of the fire when needed.
The Summit stuff comes pre-thinned which sounds like a good deal until you figure out how much you're paying for their thinner. No free lunch..... And you can't adjust the thinner for the temp at the time you shoot it.
Dan
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I've put it on two vehicles. My take:
1) their temperature ranges are optimistic, if you're spraying at 70 - 80 degrees, buy the fastest reducer (under 70 degree)
2) I seriously thought it was completely my fault that the paint didn't spray right on the Corvette (runs galore) - until the bodyshop guy who sprayed the pickup said much the same thing about the paint. It's thick and will run if you look at it wrong.
3) make absolutely certain you get a paint chip from them before you buy the paint - I still don't believe they sent me the right paint for the Corvette.
4) flexing wasn't the problem; people damaging the car was the problem.
That said, it covers well, and it's super cheap.... just, again, be sure you really allow it to flash between coatsDoing it all wrong since 1966
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SBG, did you use a metallic paint on your Vette? Was it single stage?
I'm attracted to it because of the price. They are still much lower cost for comparable low-grade single stage urethane from the paint shop. I'm not really concerned with getting a good color match, I'm painting the whole truck at once, then selling it as soon as it is dry and back together. Matching it will be the new owner's problem. I'm also not concerned about a show-quality job. This truck will be built as work/driver that will intentionally be low-budget and not perfect. Just want to get it looking decent to help the resale value and attractiveness...Still plays with trucks....
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Be aware that any single stage metallic is tough to paint. You have metallic mottling and streaking to deal with as well as getting a decent shine without dry spots or significant orange peel. I haven't painted for 20 years and I know paint has changed a lot and I am assuming this is some sort of acrylic enamel to keep the cost down.
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Originally posted by ford141 View PostSBG, did you use a metallic paint on your Vette? Was it single stage?
I'm attracted to it because of the price. They are still much lower cost for comparable low-grade single stage urethane from the paint shop. I'm not really concerned with getting a good color match, I'm painting the whole truck at once, then selling it as soon as it is dry and back together. Matching it will be the new owner's problem. I'm also not concerned about a show-quality job. This truck will be built as work/driver that will intentionally be low-budget and not perfect. Just want to get it looking decent to help the resale value and attractiveness...
But old machinist is right - it's not easy to get to lay down right.Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; April 10, 2013, 04:02 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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I have used the primer on the 66. Worked ok for me but "it was just primer". I use the silver a lot on bumpers and wheels. I would agree with SBG it likes to run. The method I found is two light coats. Let them tack up. Then a medium on the heavy side coat. Oh and hold your tongue just right. But that is on small parts not sure I would tackle a whole car. Try the Wanda stuff. A friend is the Interlux rep and put me on to it (it is a sister brand and he gets it at a discount). We shot a couple of truck bed/topper combos. It laid out clean. What ever you chose the golden rule is.....always use the same mfg for all products in the system.
Good luck.
just so you get an idea of the conditions i was working in.... and the top coat is a 50/50 mix of rustolium white gloss and white flat.Well I have stopped buying stuff for cars I don't own. Is that a step in the right or wrong direction?
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Maybe I would be better off just choosing a solid color. The original color is metallic green and the interior is green. I don't want to paint the inside of the cab since it is currently all together and complete. Low cost, quick turnaround is most important with this truck, not necessarily color. It is hard to find solid green colors that don't look like a John Deere. Then again, in my redneck area, the John Deere look might help it sell better........ hmmmmStill plays with trucks....
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White in any brand is cheap (relatively speaking). I have sprayed Nason acrylic enamel successfully. Laid down nicely IMO. You can add hardener to make the paint last if you care.
White also hides body issues- makes the vehicle look better than it is.Why think when you can be doing something fruitful?
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