Radiator Input

[DanStokes]

I'll be sliding the Benz into the S-10 soon and now I'm trying to figure out all the stuff to actually make it run. I have the S-10 V8 rad and the stock Benz rad so I have some models to use. The rules say that the entire original radiator space (original to the body) has to be filled with radiator as it was from the factory. Both the M-B and the S-10 rads are in kinda rough shape so I'll need something fresh.

So now - as a practical matter how important is all welded construction vs. crimped plastic tanks? Prices range from $75 (no fans) to $600 (including fans). I do need to keep the price down but I also need it to cool.

Remember I'll be running for a mile at WOT, coasting for another mile, and idling around the pits in between. So no towing, off-road, or other heat-inducing cycles with low wheel speeds. I have a couple of electric fans and figured I'd wire one to a switch to flip on at the end of a run.

Anyhow - I'd love the $600 system but will the cheapie work adequately?

Do I need 2 or more cores (3 core seems pretty common) or will a single core do OK?

Diesels make less waste heat than Otto cycles but I don't know how to assess this with a Benz engine in a S-10 chassis run at WOT.

Thanks

Dan

[Beagle]

Radiator input = water one side / air on the other. Hope this helps.

- I learned it from You Dan, I learned it from you.

[Ron Ward]

Dan,

I picked up a used radiator with two 12" diameter cooling fans in near perfect condition from a local salvage yard. It came from a Nissan 300ZX turbo and fits nicely into the original radiator opening of my Road Runner. I paid $40 for everything, out the door.

[Beagle]

Couldn't help that. Sorry.

One of the S10 V8 guys used a Ford Mustang SN95 radiator in his Blazer repower. That'd handle a lot of HP for cheap.

[STINEY]

An HHR oem electric fan is pretty cheap new and fits nicely as well. Also has a built in shroud. Mine was roughly $50.

This radiator was under $200 shipped a few years ago. Note it is a dual pass.....the inlet/outlet locations came in rather handy for the Cadistang project, and the extra trip through the core can't hurt.



HHR fan/shroud picture.

[TheSilverBuick]

Are you warming the engine up substantially before a run? Diesel's run cool anyways, I'd think even a small radiator would be more than adequate. A cold, or close to cold engine isn't going to overheat the water in 90 seconds and any heat generated will probably disapate fast once back down to idle speeds.

[DanStokes]

I figure I'll need to heat it some for sure. Truck runs fastest when the temp gage is off the peg but not up to full temp. Of course it climbs to the warm side during the run and cools quickly as soon as I lift. I figured I'd start there with the Benz.

I agree - my instinct is that it won't take much to cool the engine. That's why I was thinking of the cheapie single core and live with the plastic tanks.

The Benz fan looks a lot like the HHR unit but I'll have to invent a shroud. I might even have the Benz shroud though it won't cover quite all of the S-10 rad.

Dan

[squirrel]

find any used radiator you can that's at least as big as the original S10 radiator. Or get a replacement with plastic tanks, if it's close to $100.

I doubt you need a fan.

You might want to consider adding a water tank up front, weight is your friend.

[Deaf Bob]

Places to look for water tanks are COE trucks.. Mitzubishys, Isuzu's and Freightliners

What I do know...
Big blocks take 10-15 min, driving into the arena, till they are too hot to start..
This is with throttle on, throttle off, and neutral revings..
Small blocks take more time.

I used to loop my radiator hoses and hit hard and fast.. Problem with looping is the pressure build up and the loud pop when the water becomes steam.. Then I used FE Ford fill boxes with the thermostat housing cut off and hoses attached.. That made a big difference.. The biggest problem using the bigger boxes for me was space to mount it as we are not allowed to put them in he cockpit. (bad idea! Burn problems! )
The small welded aluminum ones keep our cars cool to the end.. And do not get punctured easily..
Smaller radiators and plastic tanked ones tend to have small in/outlets.. Tend to, not always true tho..

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

2000 s-10 v6 new rad 109.00 if you are friendly with your local parts guy it'll be even cheaper.. the hhr fan is short money or hit a junk yard, the jeep g/cherkee has shroud/fan unit.. the 3-4th gen t/a's have strong fans most times duals, in one unit shroud.
I'd hit the junkyard, you'd be shocked at how many vehicles are in there will almost new radiators, the mopar k car and all the off shoots,from mid 80's into lat 90's on drivers side strut tower have a bracket with 2 relays (bosch type) some will have 3, it makes for a nice neat bracket for your relays for fans/etc and I've never payed more than 2 bucks for the bracket with relays and pigtails

[BKBridges]

What I do know...
Big blocks take 10-15 min, driving into the arena, till they are too hot to start..
This is with throttle on, throttle off, and neutral revings..
Small blocks take more time.

I used to loop my radiator hoses and hit hard and fast.. Problem with looping is the pressure build up and the loud pop when the water becomes steam.. ..

DB,
This info is priceless. I will remember this stuff and amaze/annoy my young relatives with it. I always had my suspicions it was that way with the big block, but never got it quite to that point.
Thank you,
BKB
Radiator Advice: When in the junkyard, find a couple of the same units that all look good and buy the lightest one. Ford Thunderbirds are plentiful these days...

[Deaf Bob]

BKB, power of big blocks are awesome! Don't need deep gears
But small blocks with gears are the cat's meow!
The kids usually finish with liquid in their radiators.. Not always, just usually..
Don't see many SBF's in multiple cars..
SBC take heat very well!

[silver_bullet]

Sean looked up one that might fit... used for installing BBC in S-10s... replacement for a 79 chevy van with a 400 small block...
Murray® Heat Transfer - Radiator Part # 433165 Price 219.99 at Oreilly auto parts... metal construction, 4 core...

Hope this helps!

[Beagle]

Are you warming the engine up substantially before a run? Diesel's run cool anyways, I'd think even a small radiator would be more than adequate. A cold, or close to cold engine isn't going to overheat the water in 90 seconds and any heat generated will probably disapate fast once back down to idle speeds.

^^ That has been my experience with the psd. I'm seriously thinking about electric fans just so I can leave them turned off to get the heater going.

[milner351]

in my 97 psd I removed the 20lb factory clutch fan and put in a single, small electric on a switch - most of the time, that fan wasn't on.
I never got around to putting in a thermostatic switch.

I have yet to do that on my 01, still all stock.


Dan - Speedway has some aluminum rads in the clearance section cheap.
Also KMJ performance out of Iowa I believe has some great deals on generic radiators - Marco bought two and both have given him no problems.

I would think a JY electric fan set up would be ideal for you - as it will probably run cool enough that you can keep it turned off until you're ready to run... diesels do take a while to warm up.