Mutt The Race Truck

[STINEY]

Honestly, I don't know that I'd let that bearing scare me.

Looks like typical start-up wear. That crank has to turn a few times with no oil pressure every time the engine is started. And the crank lays on that bearing. In all probability, the starter probably applies pressure downwards depending on which way the engine rotates.

I'd run it. Its a race only motor right?

[DanStokes]

I don't think it's really screwed but as long as it's right in front of me and a set of bearings is like $65, I figure I might as well. I'll just have to wait a couple of days for them to be shipped.

This IS the one that the starter acts against - and has for well over 200K miles. Not sure of the actual miles but the odo of the donor car showed 209K and the PO said that the odo had crapped out shortly after he bought it.

Dan

[milner351]

It's hard for me not to start into the "while you're there" but are you concerned about the ring seal?

- it sure would be wise to make sure you've got at least a factory spec ring seal before you turn up the wick don't you think?

If a set of main bearings is $65, what's a set of rings?

[Russell]

how much where you able to lift the crank with the chain still on?

Bearings look way better than the rear main in "Crappy" the Capri it was brown from one end to the other, i figured I will not spin it more than 6k rpms its just a 302 ford, bearings are way over rated!

[Deaf Bob]

Does it snow in Nawth Kerolina?
I sense SNOWBALL..
light hone, re-ring, valves lapped, and all that cool stuff, all in the name of " While I'm in there"

[Deaf Bob]

Does it snow in Nawth Kerolina?
I sense SNOWBALL..
light hone, re-ring, valves lapped, and all that cool stuff, all in the name of " While I'm in there"

Too much? Sorry!

[DanStokes]

I'm exercising extreme self-control. 'Tain't easy. The wisdom on the M-B forum is that the basic engine lives forever. If the rear main seal hadn't been puking all over the place I never would have even pulled the pan. Jeff is working on the trans this week so I should be able to start shoving the engine back in soon.

After a search of the local pawn shops (someone stole a 2-3 about an hour before I got there!) I ended up at Harbor Freight for a 2-3" mic. The Sterrett at the good tool store was $135 and it didn't have a standard. The HF Special (Pittsburgh - can't be all bad if it's made in Pittsburgh, right?) was $35 - for a 0-1, a 1-2, AND a 3-4 - WITH standards! I sure would rather buy American but the difference was just too great for something I'll rarely use.

Anyhow, according to a metric conversion and the bearing size (70mm) the oil clearance is right in the middle of spec! So when I sign off here I'll order up a set of bearings and get on with it. One of the disadvantages of doing a rear main seal and (as it turns out a new set of main bearings) the way I'm doing it is that there's no way to assess the rotational friction of the crank. I'll have to love it. I will, however, check my work with Plastigage - I like it as a final check.

Still no feedback on assembly lube preference?

Dan

[Monk]

Still no feedback on assembly lube preference?

Dan

Would it be any different than a gas engine?
Just curious.

[Bob Holmes]

"while I'm here" is always expensive and time consuming.

Just depends on if the additional items further the plan.

[DanStokes]

Would it be any different than a gas engine?
Just curious.

Not sure, Mr. Monk. I was hoping someone had some experience to share. On the ISB that I reblocked I used lithium and it seemed to work OK. We spun it over with the dyno w/o fuel until we had OP then fired it up, followed by our standard break-in procedure. When I retired it was still running fine (maybe 2+ years later) so I guess lithium is OK.

The M-B parts source (Pelican) recommends moly lube. Buying a tube got me into free shipping territory so I went for it. Guess this one will get the moly stuff.

Dan

[Bob Holmes]

I used some Amsoil assembly lube this weekend. Its a bit tacker than the Moly based lubes I usually use.

[DanStokes]

First of all - HUGE THANKS to Monk! A very nice box arrived today.

And here's the newest pics. Area 51 (the powdercoaters) called today and my stuff was done. So King and I went to pick it up. I asked for "as close to polished aluminum as you can get" and I think they hit it pretty well. I'm going to polish the oil filter top and see how they compare.

First is all the goodies. The manifold is the intake, which came out perfectly. Then the cam cover and the upper oil pan. The cam cover and pan had been soaked in oil for 200K+ miles and their experience is that the oil soaks in and you can't get quite every last trace out even though they media blasted, baked the parts, blasted again, and solvent cleaned everything. So there's a couple of spots that are sort of "hammered aluminum" looking but they assure me it won't peel or anything. My main goal was to have this stuff cleanable and he assures me that it will be. In any case I can bring it back at no charge if there's any issues.

Second shot is the back of the pan. In typical M-B fashion it's loaded with reinforcing ribs - evidently too much is just about right.

Third is the rear seal groove in the pan showing the locating pin. I wonder if M-B had "issues" with the seal turning or if they just assumed that it might. The upper groove in the block is just like this one only cast iron.

EDIT: Forgot to mention what a joy it is to be able to pick up parts and not get a handful of muck. Diesel gunk is amazingly hard to get rid of. I'll try again to wash off the block - I'm open to suggestions for solvent after trying naptha, Simple Green, ProForce from Sam's Club, carb cleaner, and the toxic type of Easy Off.

Dan

[STINEY]

When cleaning out my paint gun with wash thinner (cheap paint thinner that you only use to clean your gun with) I accidentally discovered that I could degrease parts at the same time.

Its relatively cheap, or was (I'm still using the same 5 gallon bucket of it I paid $15 for 15 years ago.)

Maybe it will work on diesel gunk?

(Oh, and nice looking parts!)

[DanStokes]

Good thought, Stiney! I have 5 gallons (well, I've used some) and that's probably worth a shot. I could try my Body Schutts gun which would put some velocity behind it.

Dan

[GH]

Stiney, some years ago a friend of mine owned a body shop and gave me six 5 gal. buckets full of old lacquer thinner that used for cleaning his paint guns. I had a large brush pile that I had tried all winter to burn without any success. I poured 5 gallons on the pile a threw a match at it, kaboom, the whole pile was on fire. The neighbors came down the hill and my wife told my daughter, go check on your father. My wife asked what that was and did I have any more, I said there is 4 more buckets left, she said, get rid of it. That stuff is more powerful that gasoline.