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This is the swaybar mount that lines up with where the 500 motor mounts need to be.
You'll need a factory rear sump Eldorado pan or modify a more common front/mid sump pan.
Here are several pans. Left to right - factory front sump converted to rear sump, factory eldorado rear sump, factory rear wheel drive 425ci mid sump, and factory 500/472 rear wheel drive front sump. Far right is a SBC pan just for scale.
Its easiest to add a dipstick tube to the pan and block off both of the factory holes. The factory tube is in a different hole depending on RWD or FWD and the tube is VERY hard to remove without destroying it.
Don't forget the pickup tube. Add extra length and move the mounting stud.
Three styles of original pickups for front - mid - and rear sump pans. The long one is the Eldorado rear sump and has a wicked 180° turn that looks restrictive to me. In converting the front pan we used the oem short pickup and spliced in a piece of electrical conduit.
I opened up the factory pickup plate and soldered a penny over the bypass relief opening. Taking the pickup apart for cleaning is a good idea as these engines like to shed plastic bits from the factory oil shedders on the valve springs and the nylon teeth on the oem timing sets.
And back together.
Here are the two different factory dipstick holes. The double humps between the freeze plugs are them.
An interesting note - 425 Cadillac engines will only have one hole here, making identifying a 425 simple and easy.
An aftermarket K-member will allow more room for headers.
Cleaned up engine bay. Didn't bother with the factory K-member as it is getting replaced.
Did a lot of "simplifying" behind the dash as well. Since this will be a street car, I replaced the heater core while I was in there. Most Fox Mustangs will need this done...
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