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input: Clutch for 1994 Ford F250

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  • input: Clutch for 1994 Ford F250

    Hey all, long time no see.

    After the 5.7 Hemi in my Ram failed in a catastrophic fashion, I picked up a 1994 Ford F250 4X4, 5spd with the 351W.

    Overall it is a solid, rust-free truck but, it is also a 30-year-old work truck. She runs great, tracks and stops straight, and is not falling apart so, she's a keeper.


    Anyway, I suddenly lost the clutch pedal, gone...nothing. But, I did get a little engagement on the very top of travel. So, we limped home and as we were coming into the street I heard the dreaded noise of clutch carnage.

    Since I work from home and put in 12 to 14 hours a day, I don't have time to do it. I am farming out the clutch to a garage owned by a motorcycle-riding acquaintance. They've been good to me in the past with some odd ball work so I know they can handle it. However, to keep the cost down, I am buying the parts.

    So here I am wondering if anyone has any input on a middle-of-the-road clutch for a $hitbox tow-pig like this.

    We don't want to spend a fortune but, also don't want the Duralast economy clutch kit if you know what I mean.

    Any input is appreciated. Thanks

    Joe


    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  • #2
    rockauto.com does a good job of laying out the choices. Of course, once you've found the part - amazon.com so you don't get screwed on delivery charges and delivery times.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • #3
      one thing about this kind of work....if you buy the parts, and it needs a do-over, you pay labor twice. if the shop buys them, they get to do labor the second time for free.

      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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      • #4
        Originally posted by squirrel View Post
        one thing about this kind of work....if you buy the parts, and it needs a do-over, you pay labor twice. if the shop buys them, they get to do labor the second time for free.
        You're not wrong...but I saw the markup on parts when I was working at the garage a few years back. In most cases, it's 70%. Funds, as always, are limited. I'd do it all myself but I just don't have the time. Then I gotta get a tranny jack then wrestle that trans and transfer case off while on my back in a driveway...it just does not sound fun anymore. I'll see what the estimate says. If it is where I think it should be then I may just have them supply parts as well.

        If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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        • #5
          on a positive note, with all the clutches being sold these days being new, not rebuilt, comebacks are much more rare....

          I'd probably try a Luk.

          ymmv
          My fabulous web page

          "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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          • #6
            agree on the rock auto, definitely stay away from the economy lines, you can probably get the best clutch they offer for a duralast price. Make sure you get exact part numbers if you are using the Rockauto catalog for an amazon order, I have gotten wrong parts going that route.

            all totaled, you can get the complete clutch kit and flywheel for about 200. Yeah, days of cutting flywheels are over when you can get a replacement for 50 bucks, especially on a 30 year old truck. That is what is going to get the job done one time.
            Last edited by anotheridiot; September 28, 2021, 07:17 AM.

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            • #7
              The Luk parts on RA aren't quite that expensive.

              The garage discounted the hourly for me because I know the owner. I may get a break on the parts too so I am having them quote the whole thing to see where we are at.

              some pics of the carnage

              Last edited by JOES66FURY; September 29, 2021, 07:56 AM.
              If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

              Comment


              • #8
                man, when you blow a clutch, you really blow a clutch!

                Click image for larger version  Name:	joes clutch.jpg Views:	0 Size:	553.6 KB ID:	1306831
                Last edited by squirrel; September 29, 2021, 08:55 AM.
                My fabulous web page

                "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                Comment


                • #9
                  Go big or go home!
                  If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    if its a "dual mass" clutch, look for the conversion kit to change to conventional--
                    those dual mass clutches are notoriously problematic.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by squirrel View Post
                      man, when you blow a clutch, you really blow a clutch!

                      Click image for larger version Name:	joes clutch.jpg Views:	0 Size:	553.6 KB ID:	1306831
                      Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
                      if its a "dual mass" clutch, look for the conversion kit to change to conventional--
                      those dual mass clutches are notoriously problematic.
                      it's at least dual mass
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post



                        it's at least dual mass
                        looks like about half mass now

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                        • #13
                          Or duel mass. And it lost the duel.......

                          On my '88 F150 2wd (may have no common parts) the clutch failed frequently. It had the Mazda trans. Anyhow, the DuraLast didn't - last, that is. Do not try to back a trailer up a hill with one of those.

                          Dan

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                            Or duel mass. And it lost the duel.......

                            On my '88 F150 2wd (may have no common parts) the clutch failed frequently. It had the Mazda trans. Anyhow, the DuraLast didn't - last, that is. Do not try to back a trailer up a hill with one of those.

                            Dan
                            Way back in the days of dinosaurs I drove tow trucks for a small repair shop. Since I was low man on the pole I got the old 87 Ford F350 wrecker with a Holmes boom and a wheel lift. It was a 2WD 460 4brl with a manual. For reasons unknown to everyone there the clutch failed with disturbing frequency. It got to a point where we had clutches in a drawer and the machine shop on speed dial. The head mechanic would swap it out in the evening and it would be ready to go when I came in the next morning. All the guys that ran that truck before me had the same issue.
                            If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                            • #15
                              LUK and South Bend make good HD clutches as do the typical mcleod zoom. etc. I was not aware they put the dual mass clutch behind a gas engine, I thought that was only a IH diesel thing. Hope it gets worked out for you - I am still hauling and towing with a 91 F150 351W/4R100/8.8 so far so good.
                              There's always something new to learn.

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