Buick 455 engine swapping

[racingsnake440]

I've got a Buick 455 that I want to put in a pre '75 car of some description. I think it would bolt straight in place of a Buick 350 in something like a '68 Skylark but how about something earlier like a '64 Skylark with a 300? Would I have to swap engine mounts, frame mounts, both or none?

How about earlier full size Buicks from the 50s and early 60s - how difficult is it to swap in place of a nailhead? I'm happy to make up new mounts but don't really want to have to modify oil pan, exhaust manifolds etc.

Also are there any casting nos or codes I can look for in order to identify what year it is?

Finally what flexplates would work on it and does anyone have one they want to sell?

[SuperBuickGuy]

Same bellhousing 455 and 350 - not so with the 300
motor mounts - don't know, never done; but I do know the 300 is completely different on motor mounts as well (don't know 350/455)

V8Buick.com or TeamBuick.com can help you with the identification - and with what fits/what doesn't

I probably have a flex plate. it'd be cheap if you're patient (have to dig it out).

[SuperBuickGuy]

stolen from V8Buick

1231738 70-71
1238861 71-72
1241735 72-75

[CTX-SLPR]

300-340-350 and the 400-430-455's all share the BOP bellhousing flanges, the Nailhead, 215, and the early 196 V6 used different bellhousing flanges. Motor mounts are the same between the 300-340-350's but not with the 400-430-455's. However TA sells the mounts and the frame stands in both aluminum and steel and in configurations for the 64-67 and 68-72 frames.
Oils pans are rear sump for all A-body cars and the 71+ full sized, no idea on the 50's Buicks other than they were torque tube closed drivelines so you'd be out of luck from engine on back trying to keep any parts.
Flexplate should be compatable with any BOP pattern transmission, TH400's are the most common but TH350's are not unheard of and the same bellhousing was used in RWD till 1990 for the Olds 307. TH200-4R is your only OD option without an adapter.
75 will have crap low compression, crap closed chamber heads, but a very strong block with some of the best (factory wise) oiling they made on the BBB. Best best is to find a set of 72-74 heads for easiest swapping, I think there is a deck change that leaves an oil hole uncovered with the 67-70 heads and I think the 71 heads as well.

Have fun with the BBB torque!

[DanStokes]

Don't know if this helps but there's one BBB swap that I know something about, having done one. I bought a '70 wagon with a 455 and TH400 and swapped the whole deal into an '80 Chevy pickup, formerly with a Diesel. Everything bolted right up. I put the trans on the Chevy cross member (IIRC, I bought a Chevy PU TH400 rubber mount) then let the motor mounts fall where they did. Using the Buick frame stands and rubber mounts, I just had to drill one bolt hole on each side and that was it - piece o' cake. Driveshaft angles were fine and I think I reused the Chevy driveshaft, which worked OK. Even the shift linkage worked. Mucho Torquo.

Dan

[racingsnake440]

Thanks for the info guys.

SBG, I'd be interested in the flex plate - cheap is my price range so I can be patient!

[SpiderGearsMan]

and change the timing cover

[DanStokes]

I never had the timing chain cover problems that you hear about and I've done a couple of BBBs, several V6s, and done timing chains on some 300s, 340s, and 350s. In performance applications I always used the Melling high volume oil pump and original cover and it worked out fine. Besides, it's pretty easy to change the front cover in most chassis so IF there's an oil pressure "issue" it isn't all that bad to go back and change it. If it's obviously FUBAR then of course go new from the start - you'll see fairly deep "swirls" in the pump area of the cover. A little swirling is OK.

Dan

[SpiderGearsMan]

I have seen plenty ..the oil pump gears gouge the aluminum husing when they get old

considering the canoe is over 35 years old ...it would be cheap insurance , my buddy kenny was driving his apollo white gsx to bowling green and his failed -25 years old

[billy0nitro]

I'm dropping a 455 Buick into a '52 Buick with a 68-72 Camaro subframe. Does anyone make conversion motor mounts?

[SuperBuickGuy]

I don't know, ask on V8Buick.com

[squirrel]

I'd probably just make my own...put the factory style mounts on the engine, put the engine where it wants to be, and fill in the gap between the mounts and the subframe with appropriate pieces of metal, welded together, so it can unbolt from the subframe.

Or get the mount pads off the frame from any car that came originally equipped with the Buick 430/455. And drill the needed holes to bolt them in.

Or look at TheSilverBuick's build thread, and see what he used for mounts, since it's the same deal....the 77 Skylark uses the same subframe as a 70-81 Camaro.

[TheSilverBuick]

Very likely just need Buick '70-'73 A-body "low profile" frame mounts. If it's a rear steer frame you'll have to to make sure the steering linkage clears the oil pan. As Squirrel said, the '77 Skylark uses the same sub-frame as the 70-80 Camaro and all the holes but one lined up perfectly for the A-body mounts, and the one hole I just oblonged a bit.

[JamesMayberryIII]

Very likely just need Buick '70-'73 A-body "low profile" frame mounts. If it's a rear steer frame you'll have to to make sure the steering linkage clears the oil pan. As Squirrel said, the '77 Skylark uses the same sub-frame as the 70-80 Camaro and all the holes but one lined up perfectly for the A-body mounts, and the one hole I just oblonged a bit.

Didn't the f body sub-frame change in 74-75 ?

[squirrel]

The F body subframe was pretty much the same from 67-69, then changed drastically in 70, to front steer. There were minor changes over the years for things like energy absorbing bumpers, larger control arm bushings, different brakes, etc through 1981.

The X body subframe was the same as the 67-69 F body subframe from 68-74, then they went to the front steer subframe in 1975.