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  • I found the website, the rule is there to keep contractors from dumping commercial waste at the convenience sites intended for residential. It doesn't even mention household trash they assume anyone using an enclosed trailer is doing a big home projects not throwing away a few 13 gallon bags with kitchen trash and little boy training pants. The sticker that is required is only good for 7 days and takes about 2 business days to process. The website says there is no option for a permanent pass.

    I have not decided if I want to call the county and complain. Maybe I should apply for a new sticker every week just in case I want to use my car / trailer to take the trash to the dump. My rubbermade trash cans will not fit in a mustang coupe. Most of the time I use the truck just because it the most convenient but the mustang is more fun, and it's good to get practice backing a trailer with a car with a spool

    I guess I am the exception wanting to use a car and enclosed trailer to haul house trash. If I was contractor and wanted to get around the rule I would just use a single axle open trailer, or load it in the back of a truck.
    Beagle likes this.
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    • Sent you a PM.

      Dan

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      • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
        Sent you a PM.

        Dan
        Check your sent box, I have not gotten anything.
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        • Try that. Seems like I screwed up.....

          Dan

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          • I have been slack. I did set the Holley to trigger the auto logging and wired in my 2-step button! Looking forward to heading to the track!

            I nee to get back on the paint project. The top sides are 90% sanded. I am thinking about painting the under sides and maybe the rear tail light panel semi gloss black.
            ​​​​​

            ​​​
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            • My offer still stands.

              Dan
              Russell likes this.

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              • Loaded up my drag radials and skinnies in the 4x6 enclosed trailer and went to Roxboro for TnT! Swapped the tires at the track fiddled with 2step in the tune then I forgot to load it...

                Apparently I forgot how to do a burn out and make a clean pass. Another member of the local mustang forum was there I asked him to video my pass he did one better, I was not pulling up far enough and was still in the water with the burn out. I hocked up the 2step for a couple days ago. I didn't do very good adding something to my routine. Letting go of the button and the clutch at the same time is not as easy as it sounds. At least two passes o held onto the 2step after the launch and it killed 60'. My best pass did result in a 1.76 60' which is about normal for my car. Thinking about trying to mount a switch on the clutch peddle for the 2step, that or I need to go practice 10 times a day every day.

                On the way home I noticed the car runs much better at a little over 2500 rpms than it does a little under. Which seems kinda of weird. I did log it other than there being a little less timing I didn't really see much difference. The bad thing is a little over 2500 is about 67 mph and we're a little under would be 63 where I would rather cruise at on those county roads. Ideas?
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                • Video of pass and going over data log.

                  https://youtu.be/W0XvSg_5gc0

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                  • Sometimes you're an engineer! (folks - he are one.....)

                    Great to see the Volvo engine is still out earning its keep. I told Dick it was a good one but he insisted on the crate motor.

                    Dan
                    Russell likes this.

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                    • Far as I know there is nothing wrong with the Volvo motor. One of the keys to that was don't look at it while it's out. It was great when it came out it should be great going back in. I bet the extra 45 cubic inches help move the wagon better than just adding a top end kit. Though that would have been alot simpler.

                      I was going to start adding speed parts. But I found out where I didn't set the inductive delay. So it might not have been getting all the timing. Then I want to test it. There is an on ramp close to my house. I might try to log a third gear pull from 60-80 and compare before and after. If it's the same I will install something.
                      Last edited by Russell; June 19, 2020, 04:42 PM.
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                      • I went to the track last night. My wife has the dragweek trailer at the beach this week so there was no hauling the tires and switching at the track. I really dont enjoy switching tires but I really dont like street driving on my racing tires either. I left the 225s on 10 holes on the front and I still have the axle breakers 275 BFGs on 10 holes that Dana hooked me too many years ago. With the spool I dont like having only one spare tire incase I have a flat. So i put both of the skinnies and the screw jack in the trunk just incase. The track i normally go to didnt have tnt this week so I went to Galot. It is a very nice track! They did have to do a clean up that took a VERY long time but other than that they did great getting the cars down the track. I would go back again. It was the frist time I had raced there sence it was Dunn-Benson. They let me scale the car it showed 3344 lbs after the second pass. The DA was kind of high last night 2949' and fell to 2510'.

                        1.766, 8.799 @ 77.60
                        1.791, 8.813 @ 77.67
                        1.803, 8.800 @ 77.78
                        1.74, 8.788 @ 77.51

                        I did move the 2-step to a simple bracket behind the clutch pedal. I like it a lot better than having to hold the button. I can see in the log were it came on durring the shift but the rpm trace did not get down to the 2-step setting, Looks like the clutch pulls the rpm down. Do you think it hurts anything to leave it or does it need the extra switch to only activate in 1st gear?

                        I did pull the timing back to 28* and I upped the target afr to 12.9. 76-78 MPH is pretty typical for the car so I would say it really didnt loose any MPH. I would say the ET was off its normally runs in the 8.6x but I am sure the extra weight in the trunk, the 10 holes, and the hight DA didn't help.

                        The other item for the week was wheel speed sensor I orderd Cherry Hall effect sesonr and made a bracket to pick up the back of the wheel studs. I guess I have it wired wrong or programed work in teh Holley I could not get it to read even after taking it off and passing objects past. My internet seaches shown more than one way to wire the sensor. Black, Blue, brown, V+ ground and Output what is what? The Holley has a 5V+ sensor out put and a Batt+ out which is better to use?

                        Any day at the track is a good day, any day the car returns to the shop under is own power is a great day! I did enjoy not have switch tires at the track. Maybe I should be looking at new DRs?
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                        • Dragweek 2020 is canceled. I was really looking forward to it. I am trying to make lemonade, I now have a little more “car money” to go ahead and turbo the mustang What I have now is 100% stock HO, T5, 4.10 spool. The car has an SFI flywheel and bell housing, lift arm lowers and solid uppers, torque box kit, subframes, 6-point bar, tube k-member. Electric fan, aluminum radiator, 3G alt, A/C, manual rack, shorty headers 2.5 H-Pipe, Flow masters (will be going away) Holley EFI Terminator X. It's safe to assume everything else stock.



                          The plan is to make my own hot side starting with shorty headers flipped left to right. Am I missing anything, or would you suggest alternatives or additions? No part is too small to mention. I don’t expect this combination to be enough I figure I am mostly getting my feet wet, but the ultimate goal is to run 10.0x



                          Turbo Kit Estimate

                          Hot Side

                          GT45 Turbo $160

                          44mm WG $100

                          Oil Feed / Return $50

                          Exhaust Pipe $100

                          DP Clamp $35

                          flange $20

                          Cold Side

                          Intercooler $100

                          Piping kit $100

                          50 mm BOV $65

                          3 Bar Map $50

                          Fuel System

                          340 lph pump $110

                          SEP 850cc injectors or VSR Deka 80lb $335

                          Flex fuel Sensor $55

                          Other

                          Fuel & Oil pressure sensors $75

                          red RTV $5

                          Ring and Pinion $100

                          65mm TB $on hand

                          Caster Camber Coilovers $ on hand

                          total $1,460



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                          • leave some extra money for a super-duper brand name wastegate? I'll reserve judgement but boost control on that particular block is pretty critical.
                            Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                            • While there isn't much $$ involved, be sure to support that turbo! Especially when using headers that are not designed for turbo use they will want to crack and will do so quickly if they're supporting the weight of the turbo. I'm sticking with the factory exhaust manifold on Mutt's turbo in part because it's designed to hold the weight and live with the (considerable) heating and cooling and the expansion that goes with it. I have a friend in the Detroit area who makes turbo manifolds and other bits for (among others) auto makers and he says that turbo support is the most commonly overlooked area of a turbo system.

                              Dan

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                              • I am hoping to be able to figure out where I want it then build a bracket to connect the turbo flange to the head so it is floating. The connect the headers to the flange with pipe.

                                I have high hopes for the block but I have heard their history. Sounds like low speed torque, over revving, to much timing, or bad fuel will let the oil come out where it shouldn't.

                                I hope to run a reasonable tune. Some say E85 is good for turbo cars. It's pretty easy to get here. Some say a good balancer is a good upgrade should add that to the list. There are few people on Facebook that claim crazy power (800-900+) out of the stock block. I assume they are the exception not the rule. Might should build a belly pan for it.
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