Project Mustang Consolidation

[Russell]

Took the mustang to Mooresville Dragway yesterday to the Foxtober Fest "Full Throttle" day. It was pretty much a private track rental with a car show and small swap meet going on in the back ground, could have made a many passes as you wanted.

First pass forgot to turn the boost controller one. Second pass much better but missed at the end. I turned up the boost a and it didn't make a clear pass after that. Nothing but miss fires. The Internet says it's the Distributor or the Holley wiring harness to the distributor.

Highlight of the day did not wreck, drove it on the trailer, tied PB 60' time.

[DanStokes]

Small win, I checked all the plugs, one looked like it has oil on it and one was a little darker, maybe that hole is a richer? I had three plugs with only one dyno pull so I put them in them in. A while back I broke one of the plug wires and replaced it with an old Accel wire. I have since learn those wires have a pretty high resistance per foot. I replaced it with an even older ford Motorsports wire. I put some used wire covers on a few that were showing some heat damage from the headers. (I do know better to change more than one thing at a time.) My miss seems to be gone. I wonder if it was the wire or the plugs??? Now I want to take it back to the track!

Don't know if anyone else has found "the bin store" in their town, we have a few. It's a great way for a horder like me to buy things there is a possibility I might use someday for a dollar. I have got drill bits, two 3" v-bands, silicone couplers, O2 sensor that has the weather pack connector for Holley Power tap, a bundle of rebar, rod ends, rolls of wire, relays, LED can lights, those used spark plug wire boots, ford door striker, just to name a few. I am trying to now only buy things I think I can use SOON, or take of very little space and I have a place for that I know I can easily find when I need them.

I have an unused set of Ford Motorsports wires minus one that I needed for my 'Stang. If you need one I'll grab it - tell me which number.

[Russell]

Small win, I checked all the plugs, one looked like it has oil on it and one was a little darker, maybe that hole is a richer? I had three plugs with only one dyno pull so I put them in them in. A while back I broke one of the plug wires and replaced it with an old Accel wire. I have since learn those wires have a pretty high resistance per foot. I replaced it with an even older ford Motorsports wire. I put some used wire covers on a few that were showing some heat damage from the headers. (I do know better to change more than one thing at a time.) My miss seems to be gone. I wonder if it was the wire or the plugs??? Now I want to take it back to the track!

Don't know if anyone else has found "the bin store" in their town, we have a few. It's a great way for a horder like me to buy things there is a possibility I might use someday for a dollar. I have got drill bits, two 3" v-bands, silicone couplers, O2 sensor that has the weather pack connector for Holley Power tap, a bundle of rebar, rod ends, rolls of wire, relays, LED can lights, those used spark plug wire boots, ford door striker, just to name a few. I am trying to now only buy things I think I can use SOON, or take of very little space and I have a place for that I know I can easily find when I need them.

[Russell]

Sunday, did the final install on the wastegate and teed the reference lines into the existing. Change the oil and trans fluid. Swapped the skinnies and slicks then loaded it up and went to Fayetteville. Off the trailer it ran 1.52, 7.31@ 94.14, [email protected]. New PB! Before I pulled into the burn out box I tried to manually start the data logger. I am mad at my self while welding on the car I had the battery disconnect and I forgot to set the Holley clock. Get back to the pits data log is no where to be found, I thought I had auto logging set up on TPS if the manual start didn't work. It popped twice on that run but felt pretty good so I stayed in it.
For my second run my best guess was it might have hit boost cut so I lowered the target boost by a pound and jacked with the PWM boost control table.

Made a second pass and it went slower [email protected]. It popped two or three times. Reviewing the data logs it had a couple small lean spikes with tiny dips in the RPM I am guessing the pops are misfires filling the exhaust with unburnt E.

Other than the plugs everything is old. I am going check the plugs and change the plug wires hopefully it's an easy fix.

Original goal was to run 10.00 revised goal was to run 11.4s to justify climbing over the bar for the last 10 years. Next on the list is replace the leaking AC compressor and get it all the same color. Getting the N2O Camaro to run 10.9s will come before paint.

[Russell]

Putting the new lift to good use! I tested the spring that came in the original waste gate I think its somewhere between 8-10#. I put it in the second gate and cut off the passenger side of the up pipe. I got. 2" v-band clamp thinking it would be easier, maybe I should have just welded it back up? Got it all tacked up, next up finish welding. Black WG is the original after the merge, blue is new on the passenger bank hopefully it solves my boost creep. Planning on teeing off the boost reference lines from Mac Valve the for the original WG (3# spring). In theory when it was running away the boost controller was at 0% so all pressure should have been going to the bottom of the WG, therefore I think it will be a good safety, control, Who knows?

[Captain]

Thank You !!
I have seen similar units at swap meets.
I would like one, especially after the Grand Cherokee upgraded suspension work.
I will check these to what I have for ceiling clearance, and what is left for work space.
Even as a Double Decker Car Port, it would be cheaper that expanding one of the existing buildings here. I swear that Tax Appraiser follows every load of lumber if he sees it.

[Russell]

2 questions,
What is your ceiling clearance height including clearing the door, opener, door tracks?
And what is the working clearance underneath it as pictured?

OK, 3 questions,
Who is the supplier and if you want to divulge the price delivered?

Looks like a Very Nice, Old Guy Knees and Back Saver !!

As pictured it's 57" under the lowest part of the lift. 67" under the oil pan. 61.5" to the top of the ramp, about 56.5" from the ramp to the ceiling. It will go up another foot but that would put me in the ceiling. There is about 4" between the roof and the ceiling as pictured.

[Russell]

It's a snug fit but you'll never regret it! Drive-ons have their charms.

I went back and forth 2 vs. 4 for a while. I didn't want to mess with footers for a 2 post. And the can be a pain with the post / door, getting the pads lined up. But it is nice pulling a rear end on a two post and engine changes that come out the bottom. All there new trucks that the cab has to come off.

I think the four post fits better in my shop, I think it will be easier to move to the house garage if I ever decide I want the tall ceiling. For doing exhaust work it will be nice that it's sitting on the tires. Oil changes and rwd transmission should work well.

So I guess what I am saying is you need both!

[Russell]

2 questions,
What is your ceiling clearance height including clearing the door, opener, door tracks?
And what is the working clearance underneath it as pictured?

OK, 3 questions,
Who is the supplier and if you want to divulge the price delivered?

Looks like a Very Nice, Old Guy Knees and Back Saver !!

Ceiling height is just under 10'. I will have to get the tape measure out for the rest of your requests. I removed the door opener so it's now manual (can not have cake and eat it to). They have side mount motors, but the door (8'x8') will hit the car if opened all the way. So I think manual is the way to go, too easy to hit the button and crush the car.

It might go up to the next lock, but I am afraid there is not enough room to go up to get it off the locks. Without a car on it I can walk under. There are different sizes, If I had a bigger shop I would have gotten one of taller / longer ones.


I got it from:

https://m1mequipment.com/collections/all

It's a four post storage lift. I think it's sold under the tuxedo
Brand name this one is the LT8K-DX. It was $3200 plus tax, plus $75 for the side mount motor bracket. Looks like they went up $50 after I placed my order. I went and picked it up from the warehouse they loaded it on my car trailer.

So far I have changed the transmission fluid in the Cadillac. Just inspection the underside of the mustang.

[Russell]

I'm jelly! That's the kind of lift I would like to have!

Get one. If I can pull it off I am sure you can.

[DanStokes]

I am not good at welding on my back. I don't feel like pulling the entire hot side, I need to pull the transmission out of the Camaro. Not much to update on the car, but I did get a new tool! Does my shop makes it look big?

It's a snug fit but you'll never regret it! Drive-ons have their charms.

[74NovaMan]

I am not good at welding on my back. I don't feel like pulling the entire hot side, I need to pull the transmission out of the Camaro. Not much to update on the car, but I did get a new tool! Does my shop makes it look big?

Very Cool!

[Captain]

2 questions,
What is your ceiling clearance height including clearing the door, opener, door tracks?
And what is the working clearance underneath it as pictured?

OK, 3 questions,
Who is the supplier and if you want to divulge the price delivered?

Looks like a Very Nice, Old Guy Knees and Back Saver !!

[BBR]

I'm jelly! That's the kind of lift I would like to have!

[Russell]

I am not good at welding on my back. I don't feel like pulling the entire hot side, I need to pull the transmission out of the Camaro. Not much to update on the car, but I did get a new tool! Does my shop makes it look big?