Project Mustang Consolidation

[Captain]

You need to keep this pickup.
A EXCELLENT Parts Safari Truck.

[Dan Barlow]

Getting closer listing it for sale.

Nnnnoooo !

[Russell]

Friday I replaced the upper and lower ball joints on the Lightning. I know I am worlds slowest... I can turn a 12 minute YouTube video into a 5 hour job. I used my new tool to remove all of them and install the uppers. I couldn't figure out the lowers so I used some of the parts in my press.

Truck drives much better! It needs an alignment but it went from white knuckle hurting cats to one hand on the wheel!

Getting closer listing it for sale.

[Beagle]

Shouldn't need a torch.

[DanStokes]

I need to buy a torch set. I have not "had to have one" so I keep putting it off.

The shop here has AC too, though not as powerful as yours. This IS coastal NC after all.

My torch set is pretty portable so I can bring it in October if you need it.

Dan

[Russell]

Aw, don't be a wussie! As long as you have the mindset to get really grubby (think, going to Pick n Pull and harvesting a transmission) it isn't so bad. And don't be afraid to add oxy-acetylene level heat if stuff doesn't move.

Dan

Oh I am a spoiled rotten wuss!!! Remember my shop has AC. Working on the Lightning in the dark out in the driveway sweating. I understand why everyone doesn't do it. The mustang is on jack stands with the diy turbo going at a snails pace. I could move it but I don't want to, LOL. The other half is full of junk and sanded body parts I never primed or painted. I was looking at the junk to see what I could relocate or get ride of. That bay is only about 20' deep so I would have to get ride of everything to be able to work on it on that side. The other side is deeper I could move the mustang to the shorter side but I have the welder set up there and don't want to move it. Really long way to say I will sweat.

I need to buy a torch set. I have not "had to have one" so I keep putting it off.

[DanStokes]

Aw, don't be a wussie! As long as you have the mindset to get really grubby (think, going to Pick n Pull and harvesting a transmission) it isn't so bad. And don't be afraid to add oxy-acetylene level heat if stuff doesn't move.

Dan

[Russell]

Offer still stands to bring it here.....

Dan

Thanks Dan! If you were in Raleigh I would take you up on it. I don't want to drive it to Wilmington and it's too wide for my trailer .

I think I can get it I just don't enjoy suspension work.

[DanStokes]

Offer still stands to bring it here.....

Dan

[Russell]

I did mine in a cheapo 12 ton press. It was not a big thing compared to getting the parts off to replace the i-beam bushings and radius arm bushings. If you ordered from HF, the one I got years ago was a decent enough tool. They're on sale right now.

If you're going to sell it, put whatever in there. They all work fine for a while... if you're going to keep it, get something with a lifetime warranty. I don't know what brand actually lasts, the Moog stuff I thought I was doing a good thing by buying did not impress me for longevity. I'm pointing that out because I would have spent five times as much to not have to take the front end apart again (mine needs work again).

Did you pull a wheel and press/pull on the rotor to see if the ball joints have excessive wear? They hold up pretty good... it's the tie rod stuff that goes sloppy on mine, and the long one off the pitman arm that apparently never gets replaced when other people do it. Pickle fork will take care of all of that.

I didn't take the wheel off but I did jack it up. With one hand on the top and the other on the bottom I can rock the bottom of the wheel in and out enough I don't want to drive it out of the subdivision. I guess I need to check the other rod ends. I almost don't want to check them, I will bet you lunch they are junk. Don't you need another Lightning project?

[Beagle]

I did mine in a cheapo 12 ton press. It was not a big thing compared to getting the parts off to replace the i-beam bushings and radius arm bushings. If you ordered from HF, the one I got years ago was a decent enough tool. They're on sale right now.

If you're going to sell it, put whatever in there. They all work fine for a while... if you're going to keep it, get something with a lifetime warranty. I don't know what brand actually lasts, the Moog stuff I thought I was doing a good thing by buying did not impress me for longevity. I'm pointing that out because I would have spent five times as much to not have to take the front end apart again (mine needs work again).

Did you pull a wheel and press/pull on the rotor to see if the ball joints have excessove wear? They hold up pretty good... it's the tie rod stuff that goes sloppy on mine, and the long one off the pitman arm that apparently never gets replaced when other people do it. Pickle fork will take care of all of that.

[Russell]

I ordered a ball joints press. Ball joints very in price alot. I have heard some of the old name brands are not as good as they once were. Suggestions? Unless I get a really good idea. I will get something middle of the road off rockauto

[SuperBuickGuy]

We use chain and hammer method.
None of that fancy tool stuff
usually saves the grease cups too

yes this.

it's also very therapeutic to be hitting something that hard and know it's good.....

[Deaf Bob]

Bring it over and we'll do the ball joints. 'Tain't that hard - I did the ones on Truck a couple of years ago. We can DO this. I have a press and the ball joint press thingy from HF - between that and the rent-a-tool at Advance we can get 'er done. It'll be easier to sell it if it's safe and drives out OK.

Dan

We use chain and hammer method.
None of that fancy tool stuff
usually saves the grease cups too

[DanStokes]

Bring it over and we'll do the ball joints. 'Tain't that hard - I did the ones on Truck a couple of years ago. We can DO this. I have a press and the ball joint press thingy from HF - between that and the rent-a-tool at Advance we can get 'er done. It'll be easier to sell it if it's safe and drives out OK.

Dan