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  • 2001 Dodge Dakota

    Hey guys I'm new here and thought that I would make a build thread for my truck. It is a 2001 Dodge Dakota v6 that I inherited from my grandfather.
    Here is what it looked like when I got it.


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    I then built a sub box and installed the sound system. I don't have pics they were on my last phone. I also removed the camper shell so that I could actually use the bed. About a year ago I lowered it 4 inches in the rear and 3 inches in the front but the springs only lowered it 1.5 inches because they are v8 springs. I was thinking ahead.
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    I bought a 360 magnum from a guy that said it had overheated and wouldn't start.
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    I tore into it and this is what I found. A bent rod.
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    The block was sent to the machine shop and bored .020 over. And I painted it Hemi orange.
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    I was planning on a hot street/strip 360 but after watching Drag Week and bench racing I decided to spend a little bit more and get a Scat 4" crankshaft to go along with the Scat rods and Keith Black pistons(that I have yet to order). Since I don't like having my truck controlled by a computer I am going to put a carburetor on it. I bought a Painless wiring harness p/n 10101. I also got a free Powerbraid kit with it.
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    I bought some Enginequest replacement heads and began to port them.
    Before:
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    Not quite finished:
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    My goals for the truck(for now) are to run mid to high 11s in the quarter mile because I don't want to put a roll bar in it yet. I probably won't make Drag Week for several years because I just started college. I will try to make Power Tour next year though(assuming I can work fast enough)!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Watching this closely because I have been thinking about a Dakota with G3 hemi power for a DW truck!
    Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
    1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
    1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
    1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
    1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
    1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

    Comment


    • #3
      I thought about a Gen 3 Hemi but I don't feel like making motor mount in addition to long tube headers and notching the crossmember. If you do get one get a regular cab. They weigh quite a bit less than extended cabs.
      Last edited by Patrick98; September 21, 2016, 07:57 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm tall so I definitely want the extra room. Weight is not a big deal. Just need to make more power. haha.
        Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
        1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
        1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
        1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
        1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
        1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

        Comment


        • #5
          I LOVED my '98 Dakota - 5.2/auto extended cab. I'd still have it except the track moved to over the mountains and I didn't think the Dak would do well pulling Mutt the Race Truck to Ohio several times/year. No useful input on your build - just that I like the trucks.

          Dan

          Comment


          • #6
            What's the saying? One step forward, two steps back. I finished porting and polishing the exhaust on one head and was going to continue on to the other but I realized that the exhaust valve seats only had 2 angles on the other head. My dad broke out his seat grinding equipment and not a single valve seat is concentric to the valve guide on both heads. After correcting the seats I am probably going to have to put 2.02 valves in as the 1.92s sit too deep in the head. Click image for larger version

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            • #7
              I haven't updated this thread in a while but I have made progress.
              The oil pump hits the main stud so I ground on it a little and cut the stud off and left the washer off.
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              I was tightening the oil pan bolts and got a little happy and broke the bolt off. This is the only time an easy out has ever worked for me.
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              For the valve train I used a Howards roller cam with factory replacement roller lifter, Crane cams rocker studs, Scorpion Chevy 1.5 roller rocker arms, Comp cams valve springs, and Ford 302 pushrods. My dad is working on making a stud girdle because the bottom of the rocker stud is 5/16.
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              I put an Air Gap intake and an MSD Pro Billet distributor on the engine but I can't find the pictures.
              I have also installed a TCI StreetFighter shifter in the truck and can't find pictures of that.
              I decided to install an Aussie Locker in the 8.25 rear end because it was quite a bit cheaper than a LSD and I didn't have to remove the carrier. I definitely recommend the Aussie Locker. I have abused it and it takes everything I've thrown at it so far. It also handles way better especially when going sideways and feels so much more stable.

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              That's all for now. I have been looking for a 46RH transmission. So if you are around southern Arkansas, north Louisiana, or east Texas and have one I will buy it.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Make sure you rtv that pan gasket at the rear cap! I just changed the rear main seal in out 98 Durango and did not put any sealer and it leaked like crazy. I had to take it back apart and fix it. It was a one-piece Fel-pro pan gasket. Neat gasket, I didn't think it would need any additional sealer, but it certainly did!
                Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

                Comment


                • #9
                  I RTVed the crap out of it because I don't want it to leak.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Patrick98 View Post
                    II was tightening the oil pan bolts and got a little happy and broke the bolt off. This is the only time an easy out has ever worked for me.
                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1160441[/ATTACH]
                    That is an amazing picture, so they do work sometimes!
                    Escaped on a technicality.

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                    • #11
                      I always said that I would never let life get in the way. Yet here we are. I'm reviving this thread. My vision for the truck has changed through the years. The truck has also gone through different incarnations. While I still want to compete in Drag Week with it, I am not building the truck specifically for drag week. At one point the lowering kit came off so I could use it as a truck and the 408 grew up a bit and is now designated for my Scamp. I am going to make the truck look original but perform better.
                      I swapped a 360 into the truck a couple years ago. And have gotten it ironed out. Its a .040 over magnum block with the iron heads that were originally on my 408. It has a small Comp cam and an Edelbrock air gap that my dad added injector bugs to. I also added an MSD 6 and a Blaster ss coil. I slotted the crank sensor so that I could adjust the timing, which really woke the truck up. I'm currently waiting on TTI to make a run of long tube headers or find a set of Spintech mid length headers.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        While breaking in the engine, it seemed like it didn't like rpm. The first hard pull I made resulted in a stuck valve. I took a closer look at the engine and the rods had been reconditioned and were all different lengths. The pistons were also pretty far down in the hole. I replaced the rods with another set that I had on the shelf and ordered a set of Keith Black pistons. The truck runs much better. I just need to do something about the suspension and rebuild a transmission.

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                        • #13
                          Maybe these pictures will be better
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            Way Back in 2009-12 I had a 1987 Dakota with the Castrated 318 V-6 engine, 4 wheel drive, Standard Cab, and 8 ft box.
                            I bought it used, took it out to
                            Nevada for a Pipeline Job, that that is where
                            I found out how Sickly that V-6 was !!
                            And got the same Mileage as a Good 318 V8 !

                            Sold it when I got home off that job.

                            Looks like you have a decent shop to work in.
                            Last edited by Captain; December 6, 2024, 06:02 AM.

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                            • #15
                              The cam that I originally used was a small Hughes roller grind. After approximately 20k miles it developed some wear so I pulled it and replaced with the Competition Cam as well as switched from roller tipped SBC rockers back to the original pedestal mount rockers. I also added a pair of Ansen valve covers and have since installed a 53mm throttle body.
                              Attached Files

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