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**squirrel** · November 25, 2013, 07:14 AM

I don't have another blower, but I have almost everything else for the drivetrain.

**poison gas** · November 25, 2013, 07:26 AM

That's cool Jim. I like those C II's. Have you seen the Wilshire Shaker that Magnante built in Hotrod mag? Moly cage will be expensive and for the price, not that much weight savings. 1 5/8" DOM is the way to go. The good part about that car is you still have trunk and back seat space so you don't have to pull a trailer. Keep posting picks.

**Beagle** · November 25, 2013, 07:26 AM

I'll probably be confused if there's not a couple of Holleys sticking through the hood... but I'll wait for the reveal.

**squirrel** · November 25, 2013, 07:35 AM

Looks like the metal for a CM cage costs about twice as much as mild steel. The labor is the tricky part. I never did learn how to TIG...

**JOES66FURY** · November 25, 2013, 07:39 AM

Originally posted by squirrel View Post

Looks like the metal for a CM cage costs about twice as much as mild steel. The labor is the tricky part. I never did learn how to TIG...

my daughter is learning....and can lay a pretty good bead...should be certified next year. Just gotta have the welder...

**mrocketscience** · November 25, 2013, 11:38 AM

For my Anglia project I bought a Jegster roll cage kit in mild steel. Pretty inexpensive especially if you can weld it together. I tacked it all together, but I had to pay someone to weld it up properly.

**squirrel** · November 25, 2013, 04:17 PM

I went to Bisbee today and got some parts. Windshield, fenders, hood, filler panel below the grille, headlights, park lights, tail lights, upper right quarter panel section, gauge cluster, bumpers, etc. Almost all the used parts I needed to complete the car.

I also got to thinking about the front subframe, and how to make it work with the straight axle. There are kits you can buy that have a rectangular or round tube stub, they are set up for front steering, and kind of pricy. I was thinking of building my own like that...but then I took off the radiator support today, and looked at the original front frame rails, and they look like they're lighter and stronger than the stuff you can buy. So, I'm now thinking that the plan might be to strip the original suspension and inner fender stuff off the rails, and use them pretty much as they are. I'd add diagonal tubes to the upper firewall bolt holes, and probably make a crossmember to support the motor mounts. I guess I need to order an axle and springs, and get to work on it.

**poison gas** · November 25, 2013, 05:53 PM

I've done the very same thing on my 63 Lemans I sold, and a Falcon for a friend. Those subframe rails held the original stuff with only the fenderwells as support. So putting a bar from the upper firewall to the nose of the rails will be fine. Move the axle forward about 4" while you are doing it. Speedway makes a universal tubular crossmember with engine mounts on it, and it's cheaper then building it. Also almost everyone makes a cage for the chevy II in DOM if you don't want to bend one up. I prefer to do it myself so I can get it as tight to the roof as I can. Are you doing a tunnelram or single 4 bbl? I can't wait to see it taking shape.

**squirrel** · November 26, 2013, 05:01 PM

Two carbs.... I got some work done on the rear corner of the body, but there's a lot more to do. I welded the trunk corner back in, and put the shackle back in and put some weight on it. I spent some time cleaning up the quarter panel, took out the remains of the old inner wheelwell. I have more fitting to do, and I need to extend the trunk corner back a little where it was cut off. I need to put the B pillar back together also. And the bottom of the C pillar is a mess.

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**Dignlif** · November 26, 2013, 06:35 PM

Damn you're working fast Squirrel, gonna be a cool project. Here are some pix of one that I took earlier this year at the Beaver Springs PA Gasser Nats. You can see in the last shot that he was workin it!

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