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Re: 1979 Mercury Capri
iirc there should be a ground around the starter, block to firewall. It may be higher up on the block in the back. It's the one I always forget and see right as it's straining and trying to rip the firewall off when the engine is coming out.
If one of the grounds was bad, consider them all bad? Take every wire that goes from the block to the frame (at least 2 iirc) and scrub hell out of them with wire brush or scotch brite and the surface they attach to.
A slow crank and no spark, I'd pull the negative from the battery cable and have a good look at the cable as well. This all kind of sounds like bad circuit to me.
Did you get the 40p engine yet? I'd even consider a stock mustang roller with it just for farting around. Any of the alphabet / TFS stage 1ish cams and I'd be looking at P2V and coil bind. The pistons in the Explorer / Mountaineer were a little different shape than the Mustangs..I put a good set of TRW forged in the one I had, no problems, but iirc, the Explorer pistons had less of a dish. I didn't measure deck height with either cuz I was in hack mode... I'll look and see if they are still locatable, something was bothering me about the valve relief in them too.
Does it have all the front cover /engine accessory drive on it still? They were shorter package than a Fox, but it all changes over. I never have looked at the SN95, and wonder sometimes if they are not the same.
re: Trans. I've had that happen every time I change the fluid. Somebody here, I can't remember who, suggested that I had just drained the friction material with the fluid change. Probably so. Is it a C4 ? Rebuild kits are dirt cheap and the books / videos make it look pretty tempting. The clamps for the clutch packs were the only drawback and I was eyeing some big c clamps in possession as a "substitute"... nothing like the real tool, but then again, 100.00 rebuilds are my style. ;)
iirc there should be a ground around the starter, block to firewall. It may be higher up on the block in the back. It's the one I always forget and see right as it's straining and trying to rip the firewall off when the engine is coming out.
If one of the grounds was bad, consider them all bad? Take every wire that goes from the block to the frame (at least 2 iirc) and scrub hell out of them with wire brush or scotch brite and the surface they attach to.
A slow crank and no spark, I'd pull the negative from the battery cable and have a good look at the cable as well. This all kind of sounds like bad circuit to me.
Did you get the 40p engine yet? I'd even consider a stock mustang roller with it just for farting around. Any of the alphabet / TFS stage 1ish cams and I'd be looking at P2V and coil bind. The pistons in the Explorer / Mountaineer were a little different shape than the Mustangs..I put a good set of TRW forged in the one I had, no problems, but iirc, the Explorer pistons had less of a dish. I didn't measure deck height with either cuz I was in hack mode... I'll look and see if they are still locatable, something was bothering me about the valve relief in them too.
Does it have all the front cover /engine accessory drive on it still? They were shorter package than a Fox, but it all changes over. I never have looked at the SN95, and wonder sometimes if they are not the same.
re: Trans. I've had that happen every time I change the fluid. Somebody here, I can't remember who, suggested that I had just drained the friction material with the fluid change. Probably so. Is it a C4 ? Rebuild kits are dirt cheap and the books / videos make it look pretty tempting. The clamps for the clutch packs were the only drawback and I was eyeing some big c clamps in possession as a "substitute"... nothing like the real tool, but then again, 100.00 rebuilds are my style. ;)
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