MGB New Project

[DanStokes]

One more question: what is the minimum wheelbase for an NHRA gasser?

Buy a rule book!

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

Buy a rule book!

What? And waste money on a rule book? Blasphemy, I tell you! Blasphemy! That would cut into the budget for the engine, and we can't cross that bear's bridge before we burn the rule book.

I know, mixed metamoles again...

[1946Austin]

One more question: what is the minimum wheelbase for an NHRA gasser?

90" minimum. Used to be 92" but NHRA made the exception to allow Anglias to compete in Gas Class.

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

90" minimum. Used to be 92" but NHRA made the exception to allow Anglias to compete in Gas Class.

So 100 inches give or take an inch would work👍

[DanStokes]

Kinda proud of myself with today's project. Made this out of 3 pieces whereas MP&C would have worked a piece of sheet metal and done it in one but still this fits and a thin layer of filler and it'll be OK.

I didn't have a good before pic (thought I did but NO....) so here's a blown up and cropped shot from a few months ago: The top and sides of the cowl were gone where the windshield gasket had leaked. This is common on these - most folks lay a bead of RTV under the gasket when reinstalling the windscreen and that'll be my tactic.






Here's the part I cut away including drilling out the spot welds that held the flanges.





Then make the replacement piece and fit in place followed by welding and grinding:





Proof that the fender still fits. Note that this requires a fair bit of fitting so the offsets hold the fencer (wing?) properly. When I pushed the fender tightly into place it fits pretty well but I couldn't hold it where it goes and snap the pic.

[1946Austin]

So 100 inches give or take an inch would work👍

Yes. I had to shift my front axle forward 1" on my Austin to make it legal to run at our local strip. It was 89" stock, and the original front axle was about as big as my thumb in diameter.

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

Kinda proud of myself with today's project. Made this out of 3 pieces whereas MP&C would have worked a piece of sheet metal and done it in one but still this fits and a thin layer of filler and it'll be OK.

I didn't have a good before pic (thought I did but NO....) so here's a blown up and cropped shot from a few months ago: The top and sides of the cowl were gone where the windshield gasket had leaked. This is common on these - most folks lay a bead of RTV under the gasket when reinstalling the windscreen and that'll be my tactic.






Here's the part I cut away including drilling out the spot welds that held the flanges.





Then make the replacement piece and fit in place followed by welding and grinding:





Proof that the fender still fits. Note that this requires a fair bit of fitting so the offsets hold the fencer (wing?) properly. When I pushed the fender tightly into place it fits pretty well but I couldn't hold it where it goes and snap the pic.

So that ugly rusty thing is the top of the left front wing? Will you be replacing it or fixing it? That new metal looks good to me!

[DanStokes]

So that ugly rusty thing is the top of the left front wing? Will you be replacing it or fixing it? That new metal looks good to me!

The old wing goes away. I was just using it for fitment. For some reason the car came with a decent used LF wing but no RF so I've tracked one down. I need to schedule a run to the Charlotte area in the new year where a guy has a stash of decent used MGB sheetmetal at fair prices.

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

So if Sonny the pseudo gasser becomes a thing, I'll be looking to excess some Mini parts. When you're talking to people like that, mention it for me. Good stuff, inexpensive! I seem to remember that there was a contingent of Miniacs down that way when I got the 1st one.

[DanStokes]

Moving along: (I feel like I'm sidetracking the side track......)

On to installing structure. One of the rust-failed parts was a brace (I guess you'd call it) across the rear axle end of the trans tunnel. I guess it's supposed to keep the tunnel from spreading though I don't know if that would actually be an issue. I picked one up in my shipment from England and installed it yesterday using rosette welds. While I was at it I started grinding the rosettes that attach the new floors and they look much better once their little heads are knocked off. Only 3, 437 left to go, +/-.

[DanStokes]

Got more (hopefully) interesting stuff done on the MGB.

First, I needed to finish welding in the left side A-pillar but the door bracing was in the way for the weld inside the door frame. The pic shows the issue but I should have taken one after I welded it - tomorrow if I remember. Anyhow, as you can see there was no place to get the torch in there w/o pulling the door brace out so I did. I had measured across the door opening with the brace in place and got exactly 36" - wonder if that was a coincidence. So when I pulled the LF brace out it measures 36 1/8" - not bad at all and a bit more actually helps the door fit better as it's 35 7/8 as well as I can measure (it's a bit tricky due to the hinge). So about 1/8 all around for the door gap - not bad!






As I continued to prep the bottom of the car far sand blasting and coating I found a hole in a brace that supports the over-axle kick-up to the floor level. Not sure this is needed but Pressed Steel (the company that did the bodies for MG) was taking no chances, again the reason these cars are so still you can drive them with much of the structure rotted away. I probably could have just eliminated this brace but figured I might as well keep the car as stiff as possible so I fixed a little rusted spot (where finger is pointing).





Not my prettiest patch but plenty adequate.





Then onward in the never-ending quest to eliminate the tarry undercoat, evidently from the factory. I only wish it had kept the rot at bay....... Whenever I have a few minutes I attack a new area with the scraper and scrape 'till my arms fall off. I hope these pics give a feeling for how thick this coating really is. Starting point:






And with some headway made. As ever, more left to do. It's a bit easier if I heat an area with the heat gun but much slower so I'm not sure which is the better method.

[Captain]

I didn't have much luck sand blasting any type undercoating off, it just would stick into the material, or bounce off the rubbery stuff.
SBG Mentioned Dry Ice, and cracking it off. Never tried that Ides but sounds good. But finding/asking for Dry Ice up here in the Frozen Tundra will get you a Free Mental Health Assessment.........

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

I know you have the patience of Jobe, as you put up with me on more than one occasion. It's a good thing with the MGB. As much as I have whined about the whatever project, I must say that I much prefer starting from scratch with NEW metal. It's looking good.

[DanStokes]

I didn't have much luck sand blasting any type undercoating off, it just would stick into the material, or bounce off the rubbery stuff.
SBG Mentioned Dry Ice, and cracking it off. Never tried that Ides but sounds good. But finding/asking for Dry Ice up here in the Frozen Tundra will get you a Free Mental Health Assessment.........

That's what I'm thinking, hence the scraping. But 'tain't easy.

[1946Austin]

I usually found that a propane torch in one hand, and scraper in the other hand worked best. Still not easy, or fast, but easier than anything else I tried. Of course switching hands when one gets tired is a necessity!