Originally posted by milner351
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The Silver Buick's well Silver Buick!
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There is a lot of oil sprayed around there now AND that's a fuel line running right there! Mechanical fuel pump is on the driver's side, line runs on the passenger, stock location, just missing one or two tie downs =P Stock has the short rubber hose between the line and the fuel pump, hence the fitting in the picture because I didn't remove it before bending the line =PLast edited by TheSilverBuick; March 22, 2012, 06:24 PM.Escaped on a technicality. -
I should have all sorts of fun updates coming up in the next month. Hoping the replace the body bushings in the next couple days and a MegaSquirt 3 showing up. So have to modify a HEI distributor to become a cam sensor for some sequential EFI. Hoping to install the scatter shield and new clutch set early June and then send the car out for paint and hopefully getting all the chrome re-done at the same time. Fun fun fun, and further validation of my co-worker's statement, "Randal, you have the most expensive six hundred dollar car ever."
Escaped on a technicality.Comment
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I third (or is it fourth?) the JB weld.
Not knowing if the engine was good or not, but knowing that it definitely did NOT hold oil from a 2" crack on the forward bottom section of the sump from an ancient impact, I cleaned and JB welded a SBC pan.
Not only did the engine end up being an excellent runner, but the JB held so well that I just left it be. Its still on there, doing the job, 10 years later.
You'll be fine till you rip the velcro loose the next time!Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.Comment
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R
Wrigleys Juicyfruit works too... My dad fixed a rock hit in his Barracuda's radiator with it in 1970 (we got to chew gum at the gas station, a real treat, then we had to spit it out and give it to my dad...) and I rebuilt the radiator in 1990 with the gum still in place... It was hard to get the stuff off to properly solder the hole. BKBwww.FBthrottlebodies.com
Bruce K BridgesComment
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LOL, that brings back memories. To this day I keep a jumbo pack of Juicy Fruit in my traveling tool kit. Saved my butt more than once.Originally posted by BKBridges View PostR
Wrigleys Juicyfruit works too... My dad fixed a rock hit in his Barracuda's radiator with it in 1970 (we got to chew gum at the gas station, a real treat, then we had to spit it out and give it to my dad...) and I rebuilt the radiator in 1990 with the gum still in place... It was hard to get the stuff off to properly solder the hole. BKBI'm still learningComment
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Many years ago while on holidays my dad put a hole in the fuel tank in his 69 Olds . He rubbed the hole with a bar of soap ( gas station bathroom ) which stopped the leak for the next 300 miles .Comment
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JB weld.
That said, you could buy a new pan from TA and have it by Tuesday $165, part number TA 1511C (raw) or TA 1511D (powdercoat).Doing it all wrong since 1966Comment
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I go back to work on Wednesday and work until I leave for Phoenix for Easter weekend, so no time to change the pan out. Because the baffles I welded in I'm 90% sure I'd have to pull the engine to pull the pan. Something I didn't give much thought too apparently when I did that, and may have to revise when ever I go to pull the engine next. I'll start with JB weld (after all it's not really under any pressure or stress, just has to plug a pin hole) and if it's leaking when I get back from Phoenix I'll figure out a plan B, rather that be a different patch or pull the pan/engine, I don't know, cross that bridge when I get there.Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostJB weld.
That said, you could buy a new pan from TA and have it by Tuesday $165, part number TA 1511C (raw) or TA 1511D (powdercoat).
And for $165 I think I'd rather patch this beat up thing, it normally does the job of holding oil just fine
Escaped on a technicality.Comment
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Peel, stick, done. Repeat as necessary.
Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nailComment
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Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View PostI go back to work on Wednesday and work until I leave for Phoenix for Easter weekend, so no time to change the pan out. Because the baffles I welded in I'm 90% sure I'd have to pull the engine to pull the pan. Something I didn't give much thought too apparently when I did that, and may have to revise when ever I go to pull the engine next. I'll start with JB weld (after all it's not really under any pressure or stress, just has to plug a pin hole) and if it's leaking when I get back from Phoenix I'll figure out a plan B, rather that be a different patch or pull the pan/engine, I don't know, cross that bridge when I get there.
And for $165 I think I'd rather patch this beat up thing, it normally does the job of holding oil just fine
I appreciate your restraint... after all, the oil leak in my Buick has caused a twin-turbo, port EFI, 50 Buick Sedanet dragsterDoing it all wrong since 1966Comment
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while I think the JB weld is the best way to go, but I think it would be funnier if you used bubble gun and duck tape!Comment
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