Nope, we are not smoking the crack. Of course we are talking about you doing the work yourself, or having buddies help, although if you find the right deal on a few things you might be able to pay for a few things to get done, like final welding. When we say 7’s, we’re talking in the 1/4 mile with a turbocharged big-block Chevrolet. We’d start with a Chris Alston’s Chassisworks catalog and go from there.
An Eliminator 4130 chassis, with the double framerail and funny car cage options would be our starting point. Then we’d do their 4-link, strut front end, 4130 Fab 9 rear with spool, axles, etc. Wilwood disc brakes would cap it off, and we’d use Chassisworks accessories like steering column, rack, pedals, seat, steering wheel, and window net mounts. We’d finish the inside with their complete aluminum tin setup including door panels, quarter panels, floors, trans tunnel, tubs, rear floor and firewall as needed. Motor and mid plates would be required as would the trans mount. Plumbing would include cooling and fuel systems, along with a fuel pump and regulator from Aeromotive. Wiring would be next, and would be kept simple with stuff from Painless. Safety gear from DJ would finish off the inside, along with a Hurst Quarter Stick and Autometer Gauges. If we were lucky enough to save and scrimp we’d splurge for a Racepak so that when we got more budget we could do a real motor.
What? Oh yeah, the engine. We’d go junkyard cheap. LOL No really. We just witnessed a pulled from the wrecking yard big block Chevy make 850 plus horsepower pull after pull after pull thanks to some simple turbo headers and low cost import Turbos. Imagine what we could do with one good one from Precision! The engine would have a blow-through DIY carb on an Edlebrock Performer RPM, or a Megasquirt to keep things cheap along with some DIY injection.
For the trans we’d probably go Glide because they are super cheap to build, and very simple to fix. We’d build it ourselves and save the money for other stuff.
Yeah, not everything is covered here, but we actually made a pretty complete list to see if $20,000 was a reasonable number, and we think it is. Sure you are going to have to shop and be smart and do a TON of work yourself. But who cares!
Now go buy this thing!
For sale is a 1973 Opel GT that I had started to do body work on but ran out of funding to finish it to do as a fix and flip and now I’m selling it…. it has been stripped to bare metal over 90% of the car and the body work had already been started by me by doing filler with Evercoat feather light and hammer and Dolly…. I have bill of sale from DMV and application for a lost title form from DMV filled out by the guy I bought it from and AM letting it go for a couple hundred less than what I got it for so please don’t try to negotiate the price or I will hang up….. I can be reached at 760 382 0373
