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  • #46
    I was feeling a bit better today so I started installing the clutch on the Ecotec. Here's what I got done today:


    First I removed the flex plate and cleaned the attachment area after I tapped in the pilot bearing which I had frozen ahead of time. The 'fridge in the shop comes in handy! My 9/16" deep Snap On 3/8 drive socket was exactly right as a driver for the pilot.



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    And then the flywheel with APR bolts. It turns out that the flywheel bolts do not show up in the ARP catalog but are shared with a Toyota application, ARP PN 203-2802. ARP calls for 70 lb-ft of torque in the Toyota application so I went with that,



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    If any of you have better Google-Fu than I was able to muster maybe you can find out the size for the pressure plate bolts. They seem to be 7mm but no clue if that's right or not, nor any idea of the length. I found a Delco PN but they were pricey, no size was given, and they only had 5 which is useless (6 required). Anybody willing to take on the challenge?
    Last edited by DanStokes; August 6, 2022, 03:52 PM.

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    • #47
      Patrick & Tammy
      - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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      • #49
        Sadly, the ZZ Performance bolts won't work for me as they're for the 2.0 (turbo) engine. Quite a bit is different. But I did learn that they're M7x1.0 pitch so that's a start.

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        • #50
          Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
          Sadly, the ZZ Performance bolts won't work for me as they're for the 2.0 (turbo) engine. Quite a bit is different. But I did learn that they're M7x1.0 pitch so that's a start.
          That's why I included the Google search link so you would have more options....
          Patrick & Tammy
          - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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          • #51
            Appreciated!

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            • #52
              Got some pressure plate bolts. It turns out that Dorman offers PN 980-320D which is a blister pack of 4ea 7mm 1.0 x 20mm grade 10.9 (analogous to Grade 8 in regular bolts). And cheap at about $4.50/box of 4. O'Reilly's had 'em in stock. So I'll get out in a few minutes and bolt the pressure plate/clutch disc on and begin to see how the trans lines up. Pics to follow.

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              • #53
                So the Colorado trans bolts right up. There was conflicting info on the Internet so I'll post up some actual first-hand knowledge. The bad news is that the trans will have to come off again so I can install a proper release bearing slave - the one in the LuK kit doesn't have provision for a bleed screw which I'm pretty sure I'll need.

                First the pressure plate with the aforementioned Dorman bolts with a 1/4" flat washer under each head. I installed it by running in all of the screws dry then taking them out 1 by 1 and adding Loctite. I tend to paint mark rotating bolts to verify that I torqued them, in this case to 11 lb/ft. The 7mm 1.0 is REALLY close to 1/4" fine thread and the torque specs were pretty much identical so I went with that as I couldn't find a Solstice spec..


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                Then I lifted the trans with the shop crane, leveled it, and slid it into place. It went pretty well though it was tricky to get the hollow alignment dowels to slide in place (look at 9:00 and 2:00 in the clutch pic). I need more 12mm 1.75 by 50mm bellhousing bolts but Advance only had 4 so I'll hit another Advance tomorrow and get pretty matching gold Dorman fasteners. I saved the bolts from the Atlas engine I got the trans from but evidently GM decided to go from 10mm to 12mm between the 2 engine families. The strut at the rear is to make sure the stand doesn't rotate in an unscheduled manner.

                I'm sure that the trans input shaft engagement depth is OK as the trans rotates freely in neutral. Whenever there has been an issue around that I find the either the clutch spline is barely engaged (it's properly slid in) or, if the input shaft is too long, the trans binds internally as there's no clearance between the input cluster and rest of the gear train, hence a bound trans in N. So the Google "experts" were wrong - no spacer is required.


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                Last edited by DanStokes; August 7, 2022, 07:20 PM.

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                • #54
                  Looks like it was made to fit!
                  http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation

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                  • #55
                    Slave cylinder mystery solved due to some Rock Auto parts digging. The slave with the built-in bleeder is for the Colorado and that's the one I'll use. Pretty sure I'll need a way to bleed the system and I have no clue how they do it on a Solstice. I'll call LuK tomorrow and try to get them to tell me if that one will operate the clutch OK but it looks like it will based on the old Colorado one and the new Solstice one. They seem identical other than the fluid hookups.

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                    • #56
                      Previously HoosierL98GTA

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                      • #57
                        I'm watching this,
                        liking it to the Old Allard/Buick installs

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                        • #58
                          I was overly optimistic on the slave cylinder thing. Turns out the Colorado slave is about 3/4" shorter than the Solstice unit so probably wouldn't fully disengage the clutch. So I guess I'll just have to fight with bleeding the Solstice unit.

                          Second issue: I found the difference between the Colorado trans and the Solstice trans. The mounting bolt holes in the transmission front cover are in the wrong place for the Solstice slave cylinder (or the Colorado slave when inside the Solstice bellhousing) to allow the hydraulic line to be attached. After hard-core headscratching I came up with the (obvious) solution - drill new holes. It was a bit tricky to locate said hols but I got it as shown below.

                          The hole at the top by what would have been the bleed port if it had one - well, it wasn't there. And if you looks at the hole at the bottom of the aluminum mounting area at the lower right - it wasn't there either. You can also see a false start to the right of the bolt - live and learn. But with the slave thusly bolted I have a straight shot from the window in the bellhousing to fluid port in the slave. I think this will work. I'm considering putting a T with a valve just before the line enters the bell to facilitate bleeding the master and line down that far though it wouldn't, of course, help to bleed the slave itself.



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                          • #59
                            OK. Anybody have a good recipe for crow? Reckon it's my time to dine on a bit of it.

                            Turns out that to use the Colorado trans behind the Solstics/Ecotec engine you do, in fact, have to space the trans back a tad. I had everything in place and bolted up when it occurred to me to make sure the engine still rotated and nope, locked up tight. When I loosened the bellhousing bolts a little all was fine so it was clear that something in the transmission-to-engine interface was happening just a tad too soon.

                            I had heard that a 19mm (3/4") spacer between the trans and bellhousing was needed but that's way too much and someone else had posted up 5mm (about 3/16") but that would have been a bit much for my combination. I'll show you what I did.

                            I knew USS flat washers (3/8 or 10mm will work) measure out at real close to 0.070" so 2 would stack up to 0.140 +/- and, in fact, that's right where they mic'd +/- 0.002 (close enough in my world). So I decided to give that a try and see if the engine remained unlocked. As I was working on this I also got a call from Fabbot who do a lot of Aisin transmissions behind LS engines (my friend Lon is using one of their kits and he put me on to them) and while they don't mess with Ecotecs they did give me a valuable piece of info: The hydraulic slave cylinder should be nearly fully compressed when installed but if you reach into the bellhousing you should be able to push the throw out bearing back about 0.200".

                            SO I installed my spacer washers using lithium grease as "glue" to hold them in place as I installed them and then tightened the assembly in place like this:


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                            Then I installed the Solstice slave cylinder assembly - remember, I had drilled it to clock it so the fluid line meets the hole in the bell. Installed the trans again and PRESTO, no binding!



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                            So that's groovy but thanks to Fabbots I knew to check the slave assembly and sure enough, just right. I couldn't seem to take a pic of the throw out bearing pushed back but it is, indeed, a tad under 1/4" so all is well.


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                            I'm considering having a spacer plate waterjetted to replace the washers but in reality the washers are probably fine.

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                            • #60
                              Dan, looking at the picture of the slave cylinder, it appears to have a boss at 12 o'clock ish that appears undrilled. Could that be for a bleeder?

                              I could picture shortening it a bit, drilling and tapping to some appropriate size, and connecting a bleeder line using a banjo fitting and section of an line to the outside of the bellhousing with a bleeder screw. I know the one that's going into the Whatever project is made that way. I'll be using one from Howe Racing, and that's one of its features.

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