When it comes to composite racing components, one of the frequently asked questions is “What are the main differences between fiberglass and carbon fiber parts?” In this episode of the Composite Series Tim explains the characteristics of fiberglass and carbon fiber components, and bodies, along with the advantages and disadvantages of both. Wait. What? You mean Carbon isn’t always the right part? Or is it? This video is going to help you figure out just what you need for your race car project, and how to use the parts correctly. In future episodes you’ll see how to fabricate with Carbon Fiber panels in your home shop and also just how some of these parts are put together.
IF YOU MISSED EPISODE #1, CLICK HERE.
Meh,
As easy as it is to make stupid power today,
The added cost for carbon fiber is best left for the pro\’s that have a name on the side footing the bills.
Now, knowing where to make the body parts strong and where to allow it to flex under the force of the air flowing over it, is much more important, and will be better bang for the buck for the racers that are not got a sugar daddy (read sponsor).
You don\’t need wind tunnel time to figure much of it out. Just watching what others try, and get fined for in other types of racing will show you spots to work on.
A rear window and deck lid that concaves at speed was worth many tenths, it be the same going straight.
Same with the parachute that is a rear bumper and lower tail panel.
Stuff like this is better tech than what type fiber to resin up.
Tim Mcamis isn\’t exactly targeting the cash straped little guy as he basically pumps out promods all day. However if you actually watched any of the tech videos he puts out there you\’ll realize he share tons and tons of great information.
I ment as far as this page, not T.Mcamis vid’s.
As I’m going to guess that much of the readership is not rolling in funds just burning a hole in thar pockets.
On my ’66 Biscayne ‘Nostalgia’ door car (yes, it’s old, so it’s nostalgic), I have at least 40 lbs. of Bondo strategically placed (where the rust was) on my mostly original steel body (the non-original sections added on by previous owners are layers of steel either riveted or welded on akin to a 7 layer chocolate cake to repair entire large sections of missing body panels), with extra steel welded at various places to repair the lack of strength due to the excessive use of Bondo and questionable steel fabrication… I offset the additional weight though by the application of an extremely thin and already half worn off one-shot $200 paint job, and consuming only potato chips and beer for 5 days before a race to keep my personal weight down (my wife angrily disagrees with the science behind my dieting technique).. I do have a faux-carbon fiber cover on my cellphone which I’m convinced drops a solid thou on my 60′ as well as adding 1 mph to my trap speed at the big end. I still get my ass handed to me 2 out of 3 runs, but I never run out of beer money, even when I have to spend $20 on a Buy-Back to get back in the show… Crappy rusty steel, Bondo and faux-carbon fiber is my alloy of choice to keep on racing.