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'80 Triumph Tr-7

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  • There's nothing a group of bangshifters willing to help eachother can't do!

    I agree - pitch the factory wiring - for less than $200 to start from scratch - you'll be hours of frustration ahead!

    Looks like a rear disc 3.73 8.8 is just a few hours away, along with some other "tasty bits"
    There's always something new to learn.

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    • I thought about this project yesterday when I was sitting beside a 914 with a SBC and a huge cam in it....it revved up quick and took off quicker...that little car has to be an absolute kick in the ass to drive.
      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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      • Just got home from a day with the boys....7 year-old got braces on this morning.


        Tardis, lots of goodies there! Thanks for the pictures.......I'm going to have to make a list and ask for the package deal!
        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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        • Actually, after talking it over with Tardis and my wife, I've decided to junk the Arizona TR7 and get the one from the Cleveland junkyard.


          Its more complete and should make for an easier project. Probably keep the stocker engine/trans combo as well.
          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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          • Originally posted by STINEY View Post
            Actually, after talking it over with Tardis and my wife, I've decided to junk the Arizona TR7 and get the one from the Cleveland junkyard.


            Its more complete and should make for an easier project. Probably keep the stocker engine/trans combo as well.
            That's your best bet. The stock motor is locked up but I'm sure a set of plugs & wires will fix that, maybe some new oil too..

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            • Slick50 to the rescue!
              Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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              • Engine rebuild in a bottle FTW!
                Escaped on a technicality.

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                • Been chiseling tarboards out of the car, took the folding top frame out last night and chiseled on the rear parcel shelf area.

                  Couple of decisions to be made.

                  1. Do I gut the HVAC stuff in the dash. Its one compact unit, sits on the tunnel, all controls built in, just hose leading to vents. I'm undecided, usually I insist on leaving at least a heater core with defrost functionality, its necessary in Ohio. I'm awfully tempted this time though.



                  2. The interior sheetmetal, engine compartment, and trunk (and possibly/probably) will all be one color. Will leave the exterior patina "as-is" for now (my painter buddy voted NO on painting it, rats) but going to do the rest in Fullthane. Thinking white, light grey, something bright.

                  Oh, and if anyone knows how to get the safety catch on the drivers door to release (without a torch) I'm all ears. Door is as gutted as it can get, everything works, but the darn safety is stuck and won't roll over.
                  Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                  • Keep the heat / defrost - we're in the midwest - not SoCal.
                    There's always something new to learn.

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                    • Keep the heat, I would want ac as well. What was that mix atf and paint thinner? Spray it on the door latch. I would take the passenger side apart in hopes to better understand how it works so hopefully I could get the dr side to work.
                      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                      1.49, 7.39 @ 93.63 - 1.51, 7.58 @ 93.84, 11.84 @ 120.5

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                      • You don't think the engine/exhaust and lack of floor insulation will be enough?

                        Interesting item on these TR7s - they have wing windows, but they are fixed. Non-opening that is. I always got by with using those on full-open to defrost the beetles, but no such option here.

                        I just hope TR7 heater cores are reasonable, this one looks a little crusty from the engine compartment.
                        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                        • Originally posted by Russell View Post
                          Keep the heat, I would want ac as well. What was that mix atf and paint thinner? Spray it on the door latch. I would take the passenger side apart in hopes to better understand how it works so hopefully I could get the dr side to work.

                          Done that. Everything is nice and clean, moves good, soaked it anyways. Passenger side apart as well. The lock plate is on a pivot, open handle, plate rotates to first position, pull door and plate rotates past safety as long as handles are still open.

                          On the passenger side that is. Drivers side forgets to do the "plate rotates past safety as long as handles are still open" thing.

                          I've prodded vigoriously with a long screwdriver, from both inside and out. I've used the deadblow hammer on the inner door shell while both handles are in full open position AND the screwdriver is holding the lock pin to full open (try that with 2 hands)

                          Even a crowbar has no effect. There must be a notch worn on the plate. I can fix that, IF I can get the darn thing to open, so I can get the screws holding the latch out. Aaagh!
                          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                          • Get the door from Tardis. Cut the one you have off. Replace.

                            YOU can paint this thing!

                            Dan

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                            • it is for these sorts of reasons I loathe working on the innards of doors, any doors!
                              There's always something new to learn.

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                              • Originally posted by STINEY View Post
                                Interesting item on these TR7s - they have wing windows, but they are fixed. Non-opening that is. I always got by with using those on full-open to defrost the beetles, but no such option here.
                                STINEY's used to driving cars with no heat.

                                My friend made a HVAC box for his VetteS10 when moved the firewall back.
                                Didn't take much to make it, just a small box w/blower, heater core, & a flap door for the defrost..

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