FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[SuperBuickGuy]

Today I went to look at some shelving for my shop - and it's a going-out-of-business sale at a fab shop (sad, but good for me). I just bought all the steel I need plus some (140'+) of 4" channel for $100... which is just enough to build a brand-new trailer.

[SuperBuickGuy]

So I finished blowing them apart tonight - off to the shop for narrowing.


and now I have an extra dana 44 4.09 gearset

[1946Austin]

Today I went to look at some shelving for my shop - and it's a going-out-of-business sale at a fab shop (sad, but good for me). I just bought all the steel I need plus some (140'+) of 4" channel for $100... which is just enough to build a brand-new trailer.

Good buy! That's almost scrap metal price! Wish I could find some locally, as I want to build a small trailer to haul my Austin on.

[SuperBuickGuy]

MCI welding, in Oregon City, Merle, is a friend of mine - he builds really quality trailers, and does horse-trading too.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I picked up the steel today.... I'm so stoked, it's 6" channel and I got an extra stick - so 160'.... so Val, how about a swap, I build you a trailer, you buy all the gear for both of our trailers? (axles, hitch, etc.) as I have enough material for 2 16' trailers - this would be totally doable.

[DanStokes]

You're doing it all wrong (since 1966). You COULD build 1 ea. 32 foot trailer with the available stock!

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

You're doing it all wrong (since 1966). You COULD build 1 ea. 32 foot trailer with the available stock!

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

My shop got more crowded today, but hopefully the shelves will cure some of that
I got these cool stands - they used to build boilers, as they're adjustable, I figure they'll work well for frame work


I couldn't do it... chop the swap headers up... so I bought some stainless ones for cheap


hereforeto the aforementioned shelves


these may have cost me more because I think I reinjured my knee... ah well to quote the immortal Homer "health insurance is the best deal, ever."

[SuperBuickGuy]

in other news
I also took the differentials down to NW Driveline (driveshaft?) anyway, 60" is the number, that's 1" off each side on the rear and 7" off the front.... strangely, most off the short side, but since I'm swapping sides for the pumpkin, it still means a lot of work for the shop (wallet says "ouch")

but
I sold the hp 44 gearset and carrier to a guy on the Hummer forum (solid axle swap of choice for h3s)... If I can sell the arms and drop brackets, I'll have done very well on the swap (especially since I can sell the rear differential and the fj40 front difs)...

[SuperBuickGuy]

not a lot done today... but, despite being low on time, I figure if I do a bit each night, it will get done



yep, longer, but I think that's going to be a good thing because it will give me room to adapt from my transmission.... though, at the expense of driveshaft length


in other news, put the headers on, I need to do some modification....

[Loren]

60" is the number

Probably can't go too wrong w/ that..

[STINEY]

Slight slave cylinder/header interference?

[SuperBuickGuy]

Slight slave cylinder/header interference?

when my stuff interferes, it never goes half-way... I'm thinking cutting and running the pipe above - or getting a 3" stainless 90* tube then re-aiming the collector above it. These things have crappy collectors (they're ball and socket, but poorly done) so putting straight flanges on it wouldn't be a bad thing at all either.

[SuperBuickGuy]

As was mentioned before, there is a space problem on the driver's side... what wasn't even mentioned is the biggest impediment still is to come - the upper control arm for the 3 link...
anyway, the stuff





this side isn't great either


first, adapt the slave cylinder...


Buick is relaxed with it all


I thought I would consider center dumps, but those won't work either because of the 3rd link



so there it is... custom headers. I haven't decided whether or not it's going to just functional or functional and pretty... but the tentative plan is this:
Cut the #1 cylinder pipe in 2 places and move the flange to the engine
cut 3,5, & 7 off in between the flat spot on top and simply move the header away until the dump ends on the outside of the frame. Where the pretty or not will come in is how much work I want to do on #1 - that would take at least 5 cuts to reaim it correctly.... I may say "screw it" and simply make it leak proof and wrap it.

On the passenger side


I'll probably just pie cut the tops and rotate it all towards the outside of the frame.
as a side note, if I ever do turbos on a sbc, these are the headers I'd use... flip them over and they're perfect to cut off and replace with t4 flanges

[Deaf Bob]

Fenderwell headers...only if you don't mind the smell of cooking mud...