Good point. You are packing lots more pounds than this ride was. He did tip the scales at #3300 i believe, but you are surely going to be over that, especially with a potential rescue'd person.....and Buick!
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FJ40 I call Shipwreck
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I've seen that front bar fold on not-terribly-difficult stuff... most people make them pretty, the problem is they don't take a lesson from Ford - the arms on the Ford are 1) cast iron, and 2) isolated in material that will give a bit to take the shock. Those have no where to give - so, if it doesn't fold right behind that weld, it will shear at the frame attachment. As you can imagine, that doesn't happen in a time or space where a minor catastrophe will happen...Doing it all wrong since 1966
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so I still don't have the front axle back, but if I don't get it this week plan b is to send it to Currie in California and let them do it... so this makes this step a bit difficult.
Headers
on the driver's side, I need the header to move out but not get in the way of the steering box or shaft
on the passenger side, plan A is simply 90 over then 90 down... plan B, which has the benefit of not having to wait for more tube, is to cut each outlet and taper the pipe back to cylinder 8.... won't be working much on this tomorrow night, so some thought will have time to jell.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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got a few more parts in today.... and noticed an issue; fortunately, the digital camera picture picked up something that's impossible to see IRL.
so I went to put the new end in, and it's tight.... and impossibly tight on the other end... wtf?
this gave me the clue as to what's up
if you look at the rough cut one, it's thicker walled than the one on the left
but in this picture you can see the shadow of where it's flowed together.... I have to cut another 2" at least off the tubes; so I'll be able to press the end in without machining... yay
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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I always picture a "Binky thinking" moment when I do this stuff... but no more for the passenger side, it's done
so here we go.... tentative place for steering box
or here
or maybe here
flatter?
front view
back to where I started
wait a minute how about I draw this out
so here's the deal, everything needs to move in parallel - the panhard bar will have to move with the steering rod, the steering arms need to move in parallel with the pitman arm... and to do that the pitman needs to be the same length as the steering arms and the pivot point of the steering box needs to be 90* and centered on the axle.... which simply isn't possible (axle travels on an arch, and the shock needs to go in the place where the steering box would reside).... so a compromise has to occur... so far, I'll move the box forward and tilt the pivot towards the rear/center of the axle... remember, the axle is travelling on an arch - and in my build, I'm going 4" up, 8" downward trave - so the true center has to be the mid-point of the typical suspension movement....as it's going down further than up, I have to cheat to the rear of the centerline... but not too much otherwise it will wander all over the road.... with 38-40" tires and link arms that are _____" long.... anyway, boring, but to get a vehicle to drive straight down the street or dirt road.... all of this to figure out where the tube for #1 cylinder is going to live.... fun, no?Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Looking good.Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
74 Nova Project
66 Mustang GT Project
92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
79 Chevy Truck Project
1956 Cadillac Project
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