I have to admit that for a very long time I did NOT wire my starters like the one in this video. Well I wired it like one of them in the video, with the jumper wire, but not like Meziere shows you in their instructions, which is how Kevin Wilson does it in the video below. So watch the video, see how to get maximum amperage to your starter, and forget about cranking issues.
You’ll also get to see some fun footage of Kevin’s blown small block Studebaker doing some test hits at the shop, which we always approve of.
Check out the video and let us know if you have been doing it the right way or the wrong way for all these years. We really want to know.
And visit Meziere.com to see this image and save it for use in your shop.
Video Description:
Tech Tip: Wiring a racing starter for faster RPM Starts shows you how to wire a racing starter. This video demonstrates a significantly improved method to maximize RPMs from your racing starter. Importantly, this approach aligns with the recommendations of leading starter manufacturers for optimal performance and longevity. Key Notes:
- This video focuses solely on the major differences between the jumper wire method and the non-jumper wire method for the hot wire power feed.
- It does not cover necessary grounds or protective circuit safeguards, which are critical for safety and performance. These topics will be addressed in future videos.
About My Setup: I ensure all my race cars are equipped with clean grounds and dirty grounds for reliable performance. My primary ground includes a dedicated 1/0 ground wire running directly from the battery negative terminal to the engine block.
For safety, all my main power is routed through a high-quality, high-current on/off kill switch. While this video doesn’t focus on kill switches or fuses, racers should customize their setups with appropriate safety measures for their needs.
Results: Removing the jumper wire and eliminating any current-limiting solenoid between the battery and the starter’s main post dramatically improved performance. You can clearly hear the difference as my roots-blown SBC cranks with 10.5:1 static compression, spinning an 8-71 blower, mechanical fuel pump, and alternator with ease.
Protecting Your Setup: I use the solenoid to feed power to the starter solenoid’s “start” spade terminal. This prevents the high initial current surge from hitting my power switch panel, which is critical for managing my car’s various power functions. The last thing I, or any racer needs, is to have a surge damage their power switch panel!
