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  • Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
    Nice score!! Better have Kinsey's eyes checked....that is so floppy, might be having romantic ideas.....
    Kinsey's a Jeep girl, not a Land Cruiser girl
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 21, 2018, 10:25 AM.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • FJ reserved for Buick?
      Patrick & Tammy
      - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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      • Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
        FJ reserved for Buick?
        he's not an open-top kind of dog (neither are the bloodhounds for that matter)
        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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        • in an effort to continually confuse all who look at my FJ40 - I present this who, with it's mate, will be joining the front end....
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • they're here

            and a few more fixes


            and now I have a spare.... I'm sure the natives will rejoice
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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            • Just for You Aaron!
              Last edited by silver_bullet; May 23, 2018, 06:56 PM.
              Patrick & Tammy
              - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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              • I can picture where they go. They sure look nice. What makes these cooler/better than what's currently there?
                Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
                74 Nova Project
                66 Mustang GT Project

                92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
                79 Chevy Truck Project
                1956 Cadillac Project

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                • Originally posted by 74NovaMan View Post
                  I can picture where they go. They sure look nice. What makes these cooler/better than what's currently there?
                  much stronger where you drill and tap (it also is drilled and tapped - and adds a 4th stud to make the arms more secure) for the high-steer kit. For those who don't know - high steer moves the cross arm higher relative to the ground. Not just that but it flattens the geometry of the steering cross arm (reducing or eliminating completely bump steer and death wobble)
                  Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 24, 2018, 09:40 AM.
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                  • I thought Death Wobble was part of the adventure.

                    Dan

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                    • Originally posted by Dan Barlow
                      Changing things already , and not swapping to portal boxes ?
                      Been on Pirate recently? what the heck, buddy? Everyone builds a car then improves it as time, knowledge and/or (mostly) finances allow.... so seriously.... wtf?
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                        I thought Death Wobble was part of the adventure.

                        Dan
                        You see that's where you straight axle guys have it all wrong. Having the truck try and kill you on the black top shouldn't be part of the adventure. Breaking a CV joint in the middle of no where is part of the adventure.
                        Or in my case it's breaking the front wishbones, steering rack or the CAD/hubs.
                        But at least I've got a nice strong rear axle, 31 spline 9.8". Shame it's semi floating, should have bought a Toyota.

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                        • Originally posted by irsa76 View Post

                          You see that's where you straight axle guys have it all wrong. Having the truck try and kill you on the black top shouldn't be part of the adventure. Breaking a CV joint in the middle of no where is part of the adventure.
                          Or in my case it's breaking the front wishbones, steering rack or the CAD/hubs.
                          But at least I've got a nice strong rear axle, 31 spline 9.8". Shame it's semi floating, should have bought a Toyota.
                          the issue toyota axles is their is a price premium.... and I'm well beyond the age where bragging rights or manufacturing purity is something that I do anything but scoff at.

                          I planned on high steer initially but then talked myself out of it for two reasons - the first, is strength as the subsequent pictures will demonstrate, these knuckles are a lot stronger - especially where the high steer attaches....
                          Here we go....

                          I don't have the picture but it looks like new hubs will be part of this build....

                          and a hard picture to take but it almost looks like there's cracks in the face (on the wheel side, not the rear).... going to inspect closer tomorrow - was hoping the digital picture would help me see... maybe it did?


                          the knuckles



                          and here we sit.... tomorrow starts with something else, but hopefully I can get this back together as well

                          as for death wobble.... flexy suspension, 38.5" bias ply tires and it's an issue. That said, this will really help because I think the flex is because of the angle to the steering arm.

                          I like adventures where I drive home towing the other guy.... my axles, are 30 spline front 35 spline rear - but 4340 steel. (which, works out strength-wise as a bit stronger then 35 spline front and 40 spline rear.... full float, of course)
                          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                          • For what you're doing with the FJ, full floaters are the only way to go.... and you build 'em like I prefer to...beefy is good...bullet proof is better...
                            Patrick & Tammy
                            - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                            • moving forward
                              knocked the studs out, then decided to buy new ones.... so 2 day wait for that.... but got forward

                              so easy with the right tool


                              might as well lube the upper ball joint


                              all apart and waiting on the studs


                              back to this.

                              the decision is I'm going to use the parts of this, but attach it to the the tow points - it's just not what I want, so making something new is the better choice

                              also bought some spare wires


                              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                              • the problem, there is wear where there shouldn't be wear

                                basically, I think I was supposed to cut 1/4" off the stub shaft and put the circlip on the inner ring


                                see the two cuts? I think the outer one needs to be cut off


                                of all 4 major pieces, this is the only one that is undamaged

                                and there is breakage inside... probably because the hub was full of aluminum from the wear

                                the short of this is I think (going to check with Carl at Nitro tomorrow) I didn't shorten the stub shaft.... but since it's darn hard to add splines back, a phone call will happen before the chop saw happens.
                                I may, tomorrow, go to Olympic and get a couple parts - while I'm at it I may see if I can't piece together some new-to-me hubs. These hubs are a hybrid and still not sure they work for this application.



                                Hub assembly

                                press the new studs in

                                then press the pins in

                                it's funny, growing up, my dad (still owns) owned a sheet metal fab shop and has a 200 ton 12' press brake. We never had a hydraulic press....


                                front reassembly

                                if anyone is doing this - do not put the high steer arm or studs on before you attach the hub
                                and a problem

                                I put the panhard mount in the way of the cross shaft... oops
                                I have most of the parts to move it... only thing I don't have is the threaded bushings.... not just that, but I don't like the heims on the panhard so I'm going to replace those with something lined and lubable.



                                so there's the steering connected, if I must, I can get the truck off the lift - that said, I want to finish this before I do.... the biggest problem now is the panhard is no longer parallel to the steering arm (bump steer issues arise from that). With that said, this is going to make this even more of a joy to drive and, bonus, allow me to turn sharply when a wheel is stuffed



                                and I'll put the shorter arm back on to quicken the steering


                                a good view of the next things I'm fixing



                                thanks for following






                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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