FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[SuperBuickGuy]

well... game on

mental note again... this pan leaks

pilot holes drilled... there are blank space so maybe it's right

then drilled and tapped twice (first with a taper tap and then with a bottom tap)

aforementioned homemade bottom tap

so fun fact, there are supposed to be 2 sizes of balls here... there aren't... but before I measured I spent a minute trying to determine a visual difference

success?

it even turns


so here's the deal, a complete system is about $2500. That includes a new steering gear. Of course, that isn't a Scout 2 gear - that adds at least another thousand (presuming you can find one that is rebuildable).... so $3500 for a basic system without pump. I have about $425 in this. Was it worth the fear? hopefully.

[SuperBuickGuy]

part of my day was this

and I admit I'm working on getting to the comfort level to disassemble and tap the box

did drill and tap the clamp

and ugh
not sure why the grill isn't lined up anymore...

I did set the system to draining - and hopefully that will contain the mess that's coming next

[SuperBuickGuy]

coming soon

[SuperBuickGuy]

Part 1 of the welder series
as you know, I had the parts for a 200 amp CS130 alternator

this didn't look terrible except the stator was cooked - brushes looked new

the rotor looks new too

the new stator

to get the stator out, simply head the housing with a torch to at least 220

when you reassemble, use the rear housing as the 'press' the other reason to do this is so your field wires go through the case.

it's at this point that you need to think where you want those wires to exit (you can rotate the stator)
for mine, I want it to come out about where the rectifier/regulator plug exits

got a boatload of parts of the last several days. I'm still missing the coolers, transient voltage suppressor, and the voltage regulator... no big deal, I'm also trying to find some parallel connectors and I still need to build a box to house all of this... the next installment will be that.

[SuperBuickGuy]

how to get the stator out... heat

and tap

[SuperBuickGuy]

The list of what's coming next:

1) hydra-assist

2) much larger power steering cooler

3) welder

4) selectable locking front differential

5) 4:1 gear conversion - been wanting to do this for awhile however, getting the parts or having the money has been a challenge




and the cost of the above link.... about $180 not including the alternator

I don't think I'm going to change the axle gear ratio - I like the strength of the 4.56s, thus the 4:1 should resolve the crawl speed. Luigi was not thrilled at bouncing on the trail so slowing stuff down makes sense from that perspective. As far as the cooler, I've had trouble with overheating the power steering pump if the front end is locked and I'm not on snow...




If I run the Rubicon again with this, I'm taking more time off so I don't have to trailer it... for some reason that bugs me most about the entire adventure.

[SuperBuickGuy]

the video - with optionals, it's about $180 (not including the alternator)

[SuperBuickGuy]

Probably the best thing to do. That is an absurd design/quality issue, somehow my Cherokee has gone 360K miles on the original u-joint so is there something they needed to know? I forget what brand I used on the Chall but it had the button-screw deal which I still thought was crap and wouldn't go endurance racing on.

the temptation is take it to SEMA and ask them WTF.

[Loren]

then tap over the washer to fit the curve

Probably the best thing to do. That is an absurd design/quality issue, somehow my Cherokee has gone 360K miles on the original u-joint so is there something they needed to know? I forget what brand I used on the Chall but it had the button-screw deal which I still thought was crap and wouldn't go endurance racing on.

[SuperBuickGuy]

In honor of my void-every-warranty policy, I present a brand new borgeson joint


then tap over the washer to fit the curve


finish welding the washers on

and installed with plenty of loc-tite... just so I have to really fight it to get it apart when the trailgear hydraulic assist arrives next week

in other news, I started disassembly of my various cs130s... pretty sure this one was off my H3 Hummer - overcharged badly but only had 1/8th of a mile on it (anyone want to guess why I avoid Powermaster?)


the brushes are brand new....

as does the rotor

the stator got crispy - those wires should be copper colored not crispy black

what the stator should look like

next up steal the toaster oven and heat the case to get the stator out... but that's for another day, thanks for looking

[SuperBuickGuy]

By borgeson's own advertising you are well within their tolerances of angularity :
https://www.borgeson.com/Universal-Joints/

what really kills is that the no-name joint is a better product.

[silver_bullet]

By borgeson's own advertising you are well within their tolerances of angularity :

https://www.borgeson.com/Universal-Joints/

[SuperBuickGuy]

and 4K miles is "good"? i thought those things were better than
the crappy factory rag joints.... makes me not want to change
mine in the K5 to u-joints now if it only goes 4000 miles.
any recommendations for a replacement for the rag joint?
apperently borgesson discontinued the good one, all the parts
stores sell generic replacements that SUCK.,

no, not good at all but better then one mile.... and with that said, this is the first one I've ever had trouble with - also, can't put a rag joint there, not enough room. (but will I put the one on my Blazer that I already have? I don't know.).

so here are my GUESSES of what's going on
1) phasing - the u-joint at the bottom of the steering column is like 20 degrees as opposed to 5 degrees (approx) at the steering box - thus the stumble motion is causing too much stress at the lesser angle (of course, why the upper one doesn't fail too? yeah, a guess)
2) the huge tires - there is a lot of stress turning them
3) manufacturing defect - the swedging the caps in is stupid... thus they come out very easily if there's any force on them.
4) piss poor quality control. The caps are a very soft material while the yokes are forged (my money is on this one)
5) life sucks and sometimes it proves it with screwed up u-joints.

[fatguyzinc]

lasted 4000 miles v. 1 mile
.....

and 4K miles is "good"? i thought those things were better than
the crappy factory rag joints.... makes me not want to change
mine in the K5 to u-joints now if it only goes 4000 miles.
any recommendations for a replacement for the rag joint?
apperently borgesson discontinued the good one, all the parts
stores sell generic replacements that SUCK.,

[SuperBuickGuy]

Direct feed for a MIG welder?

if it's not over done, is it really done?