The joy of having a running, operable 1983 Imperial at the house has been almost overwhelming. Almost. I want to be truthful for a moment…I’m so over-the-moon happy that the silver brick is actually running after four years, two failed attempts at selling, one aborted big-block swap and countless days of anger that it’s almost unreal. Then I started doing the shakedown tests, and reality came right back over, slapped the good vibes right out of my head and reminded me that there is still a long list of things to do before the Imperial is deemed worthy of being put back on insurance and on the street full-time. Which is fair and fine enough. So far, the tests have dredged up one major issue, a stunning lack of third gear in the A-999 automatic transmission. I’ll be dropping the trans pan soon enough to have a good look at the valvebody. But there is an even more problematic issue that needs to be addressed: the throttle pedal situation.
Raven is running an Carter carburetor that has the adapter piece on the linkage that is called for on Chrysler applications. So far, so good. I’ve got two different kick-down rods that go from the carb to the kick-down lever, one that is factory correct and one that is leftover junk from the 323ci engine’s build. Covered there. But the problems begin with the throttle cable itself, the one that is actually attached to the pedal. That item is stock to the car…which wouldn’t be so bad, if it wasn’t for the fact that my car is a non-converted EFI car. Meaning, my car still had all the EFI stuff on it when I got it. My cable is meant to be running the throttle body system, not a Carter BBD two-barrel that the converted cars would’ve gotten. 
In the red circle is the focal point of the problems: the cable clamp. If you clamp the throttle cable appropriately into the clamp, it won’t reach the linkage by about two inches. If you hook the cable to the linkage, you can’t clamp the cable appropriately. The temp solution I used was to remove half of the clamp setup, and to clamp the last few millimeters of the area where the cable is sheathed to kind-of sort-of hold it in place well enough to action the throttle. It doesn’t allow for full-throttle, and tended to stick at just-barely-open (like maybe 1100 RPM or so). For the last few days, I’ve tried three different clamps from my parts bin in all sorts of different setups, and the only solution I’ve got is to cut one setup in half and weld it with one piece turned 180 degrees from where it began. Even the Lokar throttle cable I have in the shop won’t work, because it’s too damned short!
So, help me feel a bit better about my situation in the shop for a moment, and share the stores of the most irritating little detail that you’ve encountered on your build. It’ll help. I promise.
Like swapping a 700r4 trans in my chevelle only to discover that the oil dipstick on the 700 trans now takes up the space where the heater hoses used to go. So now i have to manage the hoses around the dipstick. Stupid shit that takes forever to get looking and functioning right. Or the TV cable that needs to be just right but still dosent work right even with a geometry bracket. Its the small stuff that takes forever to get right.
I mentioned on your last post this would KILL the trans if not right–Bouchillion Perf in Hanahan SC has the solution–a perfect kit to make that right $125
kickdown kit
You take a factory kickdown from FI or two bbl and try to put it on a 4 bbl intake that is higher and then wider–ain’t no way in Hell–You get the geometry all out of whack–drive it a little and you have smoked your high gear clutch material –this sounds like your second time
What you got will never work–Call Randy at Bouchillion get his kit solve that issue for good
Longer throttle cables is available off any slant six application
I have always heard the kick down rods on Mopars called .A bundle of sticks and springs .I don’t know anything about the autos of Mopar. However I have been told ,get it wrong,and get used to unbolting your trans.Me,I’ll stick with 3 pedals
Bryan, the torq flite trans throttle pressure linkage is nothing at all like an old ford c4/c6 “kick down” linkage. It would be a GREAT idea to get an old trans guy’s help on setting up the trans linkage before you smoke the 999. Aside from that, my 79 Mustangs throttle cable is nearly impossible to reach at the pedal. Roll cage and racing seat leave little room to reach the damn thing and the last time I replaced it, I cut the cable a little short..Rats..
I know what you mean about the Ford kickdown linkage. I upgraded from thre 1bbl to a Holley 4bbl on my 86 F150, and spent DAYS trying to adapt and modify the linkage to work. I finally said screw it and got rid of it. Truck will be getting a 5-speed this winter anyway.
The throttle cable bracket is 2 inches short because it is not for a 4barrel carb . Mopars are easy to work on but the carb links and kickdowns are stupid . they differ from year to year and from 2bbl to 4bbl and even from car line to car line . throw it all away and use a Lokar setup . I did and never looked back .
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