Flash rust or surface rust, whatever you want to call it, rust sucks when you go to work with a piece of sheet metal only to find it has a coating of it on one or both sides. You certainly don’t want to deal with it on a body panel you are trying to work either. If you are dealing with steel sheets that are thick enough, or a body panel that has a lot of metal in it, then you can sand it down, but that is going to thin the material and in some cases might require a lot of sanding to make sure you have gotten all the rust out of it. So what do you do?
Well, in these two videos from Wray Schelin’s ProShaper Workshop he’s going to share his rust removal methods with you, including when and why he uses each one. You are going to want to watch this because you just might learn a new technique or three that you didn’t have in your mental toolbox before.
Video #1 Description:
How to remove surface rust! A lot of people question why Wray prefers aluminum, the answer is simple, RUST! During the summer months in the shop it becomes really humid and some of our work gets surface rust. In this video Wray goes over the different way we fight the rust demon!
Video #2 Description:
More Rust Removal Secrets We’re back. Wray has been providing little snippets of the things going on in the shop. Now that we have some time, we are making videos again. I had pulled out a fender that had some serious rust and Wray in his infinite wisdom decided to make a comparison video using Muriatic Acid, Naval Jelly and Phosphoric acid and see which works the fastest.
