Project Mustang Consolidation

[Russell]

IC should be just below the center of mass in the car. Usually, that point is about where the crank meets the flywheel.... think of it this way - when you nail the throttle, you want to lift the car at its heaviest point... of course, there is more to it, but there's the nutshell.

So move the IC foward?
what's the red line? Would getting the IC under the red line do the same thing?

[Russell]

My 2 cents is: getting a manual trans car to hood with drag radials is an exercise in frustration. They just have such a small window of hook vs. spin that it is difficult to be consistent. A pair of bias ply ET Streets or slicks will put a big smile on your face every time you dump the clutch. Even with marginal track conditions.

That's what you and everyone one else keeps saying, I know it's true! I am hard headed and I already have the DRs. I did buy one of the clutchtamer.com things. I am still playing with the settings.

[Russell]

Instagram? Oh you kids!!!!
Dan

Ever sense PB, I have had a ruff time with pictures. I tried imgur it worked for a while the last time I tried the picture would not show. Instagram is my second favorite social media to forums

[DanStokes]

I just host 'em on my 'puter - easy-peasy. Download from your camera/phone and set up a file folder for each topic. Next time you're here I'll show you how I do it.

Dan

[Russell]

I just host 'em on my 'puter - easy-peasy. Download from your camera/phone and set up a file folder for each topic. Next time you're here I'll show you how I do it.
Dan

Do you have to resize them? Seems like they will never load from my phone

[DanStokes]

I load them from my old Canon (actually, straight from the SD card) so I'm not sure about a phone download. Bet we can sort it out either way. - and I'm a computer idiot!

Dan

[Russell]

Got a new battery, it's very nice not to have cranking issues. I removed the lift off hood and installed a red stock one with dents. It will get paint someday. It's nice to have working hood hinges. I tried a factory air box with k&n I couldn't tell a difference. I added some inside trunk panels. I think its quiter. Switched the rear tires to MT DR on welds.

Took it to the track Friday. Got to mark one thing off my bucket list. Race Dad! I got out first but he had me by half track. A different pass cut a little off my 60' time but I think that's the pass I tried shifting to 4th and it slowed in the second 330'.

1.837, 8.956 @ 75.29

[Russell]

The next project I want work on is upgrading the alternator. Most suggest running a new 4 gauge wire to the battery side of the solenoid. The original charge wire runs around the front of the radator. It looks like it would be shorter to run the wire across by the starter or ground wire. Is there any reason these need to be separate? I do plan to change the starter to a mini that is hot all the later on.

[cstmwgn]

I am running a hopped up 3G (200 amp) on my wagon. I am also running a 4ga wire from the alternator to a distribution block. The wire from the battery, starter motor and alternator are all terminated together at the distribution block. I would also recommend running a big fuse (~250amp) between the alternator and the distribution block just in case bad things happen.

If the car doesn't have EFI the probably not but I am not sure that there is anything terrible about running the power cable the way you described it. Mine runs forward and under the radiator and then back along the passenger side.

[Russell]

The car is EFI I was planning on putting a mega fuse in it. Seems like everyone has a different amp recommendation.

[cstmwgn]

The car is EFI I was planning on putting a mega fuse in it. Seems like everyone has a different amp recommendation.

I am somewhat lacking in my knowledge of EFI but they sure seem to get pissy about "noise" RF / EMI interference. On Holley EFI, they want separate Power and Ground wires directly from the battery that only crosses other big power wires / ignition wires at 90* angles. I think I would keep the Positive and Negative stuff separated as much as possible.

I went with 250 because the alternator is rated at 200. Basically, the way I understand it, it is to protect against dead shorts

[Russell]

I picked up a mega fuse holder out Lincoln LS with a 175 amp fuse. I think the 3G alt. I have is a 95 amp (edit: its a 130 amp) so it should be good. I was looking through my stash and found and what I think was an stereo amp wire it's a scosche 5ga. it looks bigger than the stock wire that came with the 3G alt. Think it good enough or should I buy 4 ga. Wire as susgested?

[DanStokes]

When I did the new Powermaster in the Volvo I went for the big wire which I got at Marine Warehouse. It wasn't TOO pricey and there was no question that it was the right stuff.

Dan

[Russell]

I took the alternator to the parts store and had it tested. It tested good! Got the lugs so the only thing left to buy is the wire loom.

The next project will be electric fan. I have a thunderbird fan that looks like the mark 8 fan that has been sitting in the barn for 8 years, wow time flies hopefully it's still good. I have heard some have good luck with the volvo controler and BMW 2 temp sensor. I found a simple write up. The only thing I an not sure about is there is no way to cut it off if the motor is hot. My idea would be add two switches to outputs of the temp sensor to manually control the fan.

Looking for a good cheap install. What do you think?

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/markviii.html

[Dan Barlow]

Do you have to resize them? Seems like they will never load from my phone

I resize them on my phone about 50%