Project Mustang Consolidation

[Deaf Bob]

Porta power is my new favorite tool! I moved some metal tonight. It needs to move alittle more but it's getting better.

Photos are to big to upload. They are on my Instagram. Will try later to resize them.

If you switch accessories alot on the porta power, you likely need to "top off" fluid.
Have 2 porta powers. Added oil to the older one and was fine.. But we needed the double attachments so it was ok for us..
We like to use them when adding our door bars.. Spread tight to the interior

[DanStokes]

HF for the win!!! Did you get the little one? As I said, that's the one I use most of the time.

Dan

[Russell]

I got the small porta power.

Time to start thinking about paint. I need to come up with a plan of action. Then a materials list.

The trunk lid has been painted I can see swirls / sanding marks under the paint. The bumper appears to be original base clear with most of the clear baked.

1. pull parts back off the car
2. sand. (320 wet using blocks were possible?)
3. Will it need primer?
4. Will it need sealer?
5. What type of paint?

[DanStokes]

1) Yes

2) Start with 180 then finer. Always use blocks where you can - it's really easy to get finger marks if you don't. Come on over and you can borrow mine.

3) I use regular high-fill primer if there are swirl marks or other small imperfections.

4) I like PPG DP series epoxy primer, thinned with lacquer thinner for a sealer. DP90 is the black, IIRC DP40 is light grey and there are other colors available. Pick one close to the color you'll paint (purple, I presume).

5) PPG is excellent paint as is DuPont. There are other great brands, too. Both companies have "store brands" (DuPont has Nason, for example - can't think of PPG's even though I've shot a ton of it - damn old age) that will work fine for your use. I think I have enough clear to cover what you'll need - I'll check next time I get on the mezzanine. Remember to get ALL the chemicals you'll need for the paint system you chose - hardners, thinners, etc. The folks at the paint store will steer you straight on this. I have "a guy" here in Wilmington who takes care of me but any decent paint store should have good guidance. They'll usually take pity on amateurs like us and be sure you get everything. If you can take in something (fuel doors work well) they can match the existing paint really well. My guy uses the paint matching equipment as a starting point then modifies the mix to make up for any differences in color.

Dan

[Russell]

Sounds good I am looking forward to getting out there and sanding!

I made a deal today to buy used castor camber plates and coil overs kit. Don't know when I will get it installed. I have been wanting to raise the front a little hopefully this will do it. Hopefully it works just as well or better at the track after the swap.

I have some 70/30 struts I would like to try. They are for the wider 4cyl spindles. I need to find or buy some adaptors.

[Russell]

Took the trunk lid off and removed the two emblems. They pulled some paint off with them so I hit those areas with some 80 grit dry. The parts store didn't have 180 wet so I came home with 220 wet. Have gone over it a couple times but it still needs more.

The existing paint seems to be in pretty good shape. It's a base clear respray. Seems like I have heard before that all the clear needed to come off. Is this true or is a good scuff good enough?

[DanStokes]

If the clear is in good shape you can rough it up (called making "tooth") and spray over it. However, like roof shingles there's a limit as to how many layers will hold up. I've forgotten that guideline and have no clue how many layers are on your car now so you might want to do an Internet search. It really isn't TOO hard to knock several layers off with sandpaper and if you put some effort into it you can use the existing paint as if it was primer and smooth out old scratches, etc. and get a better finish than you had before. The car doesn't have to be totally naked, just get the thick parts worked down.

Dan

[Russell]

Glad to hear. I think most of the clear will be gone by the time the low spots come out blocking.

Any harm is blocking with 180 dry I have a roll of it. I think that might be easier to block dry, wet it hard to see what is no longer shiny.

[DanStokes]

180 should be fine. Remember, sandpaper is supplies not tools! People tend to use sandpaper far too long before changing and if it gets plugged it'll leave gouges as you work the panel. The purpose of wet sanding is to keep the paper clean(er) so you can do the same work dry but you'll go thru more paper. Sometimes I'll opt to dry sand if the area is smaller or I just don't feel like making such a mess.

Following the 180 you'll probably need to hit it with 400, prime, sand the primer with 400 or 600 (depending on your patience - finer is better), seal, then shoot color.

Dan

[Russell]

180 dry cuts better and is easier for me to see the low spots than the 220 wet. Still need more but getting closer.

[Russell]

Been slack on the sanding, but I did take the labor money from the insurance, my birthday and Christmas cash and placed an order for a:
//www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/terminator_x/terminator_x_and_x_max_ford_kits/

Looking forward to having data logging and dipping my toes into efi tunning.

[Russell]

I picked up a new DA sander from HF it works well and my air little compressor do ok. I got spare hood out of inventory and started sanding it. I am trying get all the shine off, still need to sand some more.

I got the Terminator X and have started removing the factory wiring harness.

I put up a pair of one season old 28x9 MT Drag. I have been racing lately on 275/50/15 MT DR (26") I wonder how it will like the bias 28"?

[BBR]

Tach it up snd let it rip!!

[Russell]

Tach it up snd let it rip!!

What do you launch your's at? I was shooting for between 4-4500. Looking forward to the two step

[BBR]

Heck idk. Somewhere around there. Jake was decidedly more aggressive with it on RMRW than I ever was.