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Project Raven Imperial: The Last Piece To The Puzzle Is Always A Pain In The…


Project Raven Imperial:  The Last Piece To The Puzzle Is Always A Pain In The…

The formal name for the place I live at, far as anybody needs to know, is simply BangShift Mid-West. It is my house, my land, my domicile. Then there is the small shop right off to the side of the house that is known as the Thrown Wrench Garage, for one reason alone: few things test my temper out quite like wrenching. Don’t get me wrong…I love spinning wrenches and fixing my own stuff. And I love the fact that I don’t have to lay in rain-soaked gravel and mud like I did when I first started out as a kid, or on searing hot asphalt and concrete, like I have done in the past. But there has been a problem in the shop for a few months now. I’ll give you a hint: it’s not quite eighteen feet long, weighs in at about two tons, and has been a thorn in my ass all year. Yep, you guessed it, the Imperial. I wanted to have it running by my birthday back in May….then by the beginning of summer…then by the end of summer. Well, we’re past summer, screaming through fall and on our way towards winter, and only now does it look like the silver sled is close to firing. You’ll be happy to know that the engine has turned over by the starter alone for a couple of tests, but there was one final, major cog holding up the program, and a few days ago, after I drill-primed the engine for the last time, I decided that I was ready to install the oil pump driveshaft, the last major internal piece of the 367 cubic inch LA block that was still sitting on the bench. 

Nothing to it, right? Just a hex head that slots into the oil pump itself, a length of stock, and the drive gear that meshes with the camshaft. Of all of the things I’ve done to this engine since I took the plunge of building my first entire block, this is the least threatening thing I’ve dealt with. Making sure the main bearings are in and not gouged? Installing the pistons? Those were worth sweating over. This one piece of the puzzle, the item most notably famous as the center post structure to a certain, famous Hellcat-swapped Charger’s hoodscoop, not so much. Installation is idiot-proof: using care to not gouge the tower bushing, drop shaft down into oil pump and make sure that the gear goes down into the camshaft gear. Nothing to it, I kept saying. Just drop it in, get the distributor ready, and let’s fire this sucker already. With weather already cooling off rapidly and leaves dropping like houseflies, I’m in a bit of a hurry to prove that the engine does, in fact, run and I’d like to break the engine in on a day that doesn’t make me think of a wet Scotland morning, thank you kindly.

Would the oil pump driveshaft go in? Sure…but all the way in, where it’s supposed to fit? Oh, hell no. When test-fitting the distributor, the flat base of the spark-thrower is supposed to be on the engine block, fit in and ready for the distributor tab to hold it down, not floating a quarter-inch above the deck. I tried just about everything: I stuck a screwdriver and tried to turn the shaft, hoping it’d mesh in further down. Nope. I tried checking the length of the driveshaft to see if there were any nicks, burrs or other indications that there was a physical reason why the damned thing wouldn’t drop in properly; nothing was to be found. I turned the engine by hand, hoping that some movement in the camshaft itself would aid in the situation. Sorry, Chief, but that didn’t fly either. I went to the Internet for help, and by the time I finished reading comments, I was all but sure that I was going to have to yank the engine back out to check the oil pump itself in full. Anger swelled up at the mere thought of breaking out the hoist again for this car.

The best advice I can give any budding mechanic who runs into a frustrating situation like this is simple: find someone much more experienced than you, explain the situation, and heed their advice. As I type, the driveshaft is properly installed. Do you want to know how it happened? What did I do that was different? It’s very simple, really: a 1 1/4 inch socket, six inches of extension, and a hammer. The problem wasn’t a burr or a design flaw, it was because installation force was simply inadequate. A couple of healthy taps and the gear slotted right in perfectly, fully meshed. The truth is annoying sometimes. One of my biggest takeaways from this engine build is learning what is truly delicate about an engine, and just what “delicate” entails. Crankshaft bearing surfaces, delicate. Steel gear on steel rod going into oil pump? Not even close. The list that remains before first fire is down to six items: assemble a distributor, spark plug wires, one more fan belt, connecting up the fuel lines to the pump, creating two exhaust pipes for the manifolds that will reach down to the underside of the car, and if I want to be picky, a throttle linkage assembly that actually connects. It’s not needed, but it couldn’t hurt. Everything else is in place. It’s almost time…


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9 thoughts on “Project Raven Imperial: The Last Piece To The Puzzle Is Always A Pain In The…

  1. david kluttz

    If you installed a new distributor shaft bronze bushing you needed to check shaft fit in that new bushing when it was all bare–they can be tight and require honing to fit–also putting shaft in drill and using sand paper to polish helps
    Sometimes it will not go in because you have engine oil in the hole that shaft goes into on oil pump–you can’t compress the oil so you have to keep sticking shaft in and out until you get the oil out of the hole
    If shaft is tight on that bushing it will run short time then spin the bushing in the block
    Good luck!

  2. david kluttz

    FWIW on Mopars you MUST have the linkage between the carb and the transmission hooked up correctly–when you use an aftermarket carb and intake you usually move things up / down / sideways etc and screw up the delicate geometry involved–get this wrong and high gear frictions in trans last a few days The very best answer is kick down cable kit from Bouchillion in Hanahan , SC This kit is the Bomb and easy to adjust for perfect transmission operation
    email me with any Mopar questions I might can help [email protected]
    Cool Project!

  3. 69rrboy

    I had the same issue the first time I tried to install a distributor drive in my 340. I knew i had the correct drive because it was the original one from the motor that was a running piece before I had it redone.

    After several attempts with no success my dad told me the problem is trying to mesh dry teeth with dry teeth. That and the fact I was trying to put it straight in while the correct technique was to push it down while also turning it slightly clockwise because the gear teeth are angled. He suggested putting oil on the teeth of the gear so I did. First try….plunk. Right in with no problem.

    Of course when I went to start the car I found out I was off by one tooth so I had to take everything back apart and try again. Turning that thing counter clockwise with a screwdriver while lifting up and having it stay connected all at the same time while leaning across an E-Body engine compartment with my face jammed against the cowl and my shoulders against the bottom of the hood was the real challenge. Thankfully the 2nd try fixed it.

  4. Bill Greenwood

    It can also be a PITA to get the drive perfectly oriented so that the distributor isn’t several degrees out visually. Because you are lining up a hex drive on the end of a shaft with a helical gear, you sometimes have to drop the drive in, then pull it back out and use your oil pump priming shaft to turn the oil pump a degree or two.
    The other serious Mopar pain can be lining up flex plate bolt holes. If you’re starting with a fresh converter that doesn’t have your paint marker indicator marks on it, it is feasible to enter in to that special hell where you tighten one converter bolt, then climb out from under the car, rotate the engine ninety, crawl back under, and find out you’re in the wrong hole. (insert tasteless comment here). So, you go back up, rotate 270, take the bolt out, crawl out, rotate 90, try again. It IS possible to be wrong 3 times. Don’t ask me how I know this.

  5. 69rrboy

    Right Mr. Greenwood. That’s what happened to me. I “thought” I had everything lined up the first time. It wasn’t until AFTER I had the engine in the car and fired up that I found out it was actually off a tooth and messed the timing up. So I had to pull everything back out while it was IN the car and start all over again. Most annoying!!!

    Yep, definitely make sure you get all your flex plate bolts lined up with the convertor while everything’s laying on a table in front of you. I always use 4 different colors of paint and mark every ear.

    I’m assuming you also got the correct flex plate in the first place? I forgot what you said you had in there but IF it’s a 1973 340 or a 360 motor you will need a plate for an externally balanced cast crank. IF it’s a 318 or 68-72 340 it’s the other one.

    Ditto on the front balancer. Make sure you have the correct one there too.

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