Plastic Fantastic tew

[SuperBuickGuy]

It's been tucked into my enclosed trailer for a bit now, but collecting parts for the new updates.
1) port efi
2) coil-per cylinder
3) backup motor
4) better sidepipes


okay.... so explain. I bought a Terminator X and have most of the parts to build the port efi/coil-per cylinder.... I've already sold the Sniper to the friend who I brought the BBC back from Reno.... and the sidepipes... he gets a great deal and I get not to deal with craigslist... win win

so that's the first 2

I've been fighting the oil pressure problem - specifically, at idle it has 20 psi - all with a high volume - high pressure oil pump. In talking to people at SEMA (2 cam manufacturers and several engine builders - the only thing I haven't 'checked' is lifters... bbc, I guess, can have variance in lifter-bore height. Add to that some lifter manufacturers make their oil passage wider then others and you can have a perfect storm.... of course, the right thing to do is just build another motor....which a 4 bolt bbc fell into my lap along with forged pistons.... having a spare isn't a bad idea, either, so I'll use a lot of the parts I already have and build another motor.

and sidepipes.
this has been on my radar from the beginning but now I finally have the space, place, time and
Summit had these sitting in their return pile.... cheap

[SuperBuickGuy]

and back on the ground.... I may have tightened the rear coil overs a bit too much but past experience says drive it a few times



I ordered a very cheap set of 304 stainless 16g shorty headers.... next up is build new headers. I also ordered a port efi intake manifold. I'm going to assemble it myself. I don't trust FiTech and the Holley does give enough fuel at full song.

With that said, I may put this in its box after putting a solid heat cycle or two in the differential (and reset the speedo)

[SuperBuickGuy]

yay practice
nothing left to do but to do it

my 'stock' C3 rear suspension

old ready to drop

empty hole

getting back together


oil is in it, tomorrow I'll tighten everything back up - I also want the rear up about an inch...

the 'to do' list:
replace inside mirror with one that doesn't move
oil catch can
do something about the center console - it's dropped and now is hit by the shifter

put it away - then collect parts for the port EFI, better headers and maybe build a spare motor.

[silver_bullet]

But, You're getting so good at swapping them out! Had a teacher in high school that told this.... "An entertainer was performing his act on stage, and, to his delight, an audience member cheered "Encore...Encore!" So he gladly repeated that part of the performance.... to yet another "Encore!"... This happened several times, and, getting tired of this, He stated to the audience member "Sir, I am sorry, but for the rest of the audience, I should go on with the rest of the performance..." He was rebuked with this: "You will continue to do that last act over and over again until, you get it RIGHT!" Just Kidding old Friend!

[SuperBuickGuy]

I should use dzus fasteners to install this.... what is this, rear diff number 3?

[SuperBuickGuy]

didn't get much time to work on it today, however, did get to checking the alignment.... 6* castor, 1.5 camber. great for a street car, I can flip the shims on the lower control arm to gain 1 degree of camber - which is about perfect for an autox
I'll take it

[SuperBuickGuy]

to remind... these weren't fitting

they do now

the problem (basically a burr)

after a bit of love with a die grinder

ages ago I bought dies to port heads, I may have used them once for that but they are handy for things like this

much much better

with the new wheels on it

and they fit!!!! 1" wider tire - these rims - well all the rims are for the back tires of a C6. The front are stock C6, the rear are GS C6

these fit better then the GS wheels which are 1 1/2 inches narrower

tire/wheel weights
stock GS front

race GS about 4lb savings per wheel - granted, it's also a wider tire....

rear GS stock wheels

the most amazing, 10 lbs savings on each rear wheel

tomorrow

[SuperBuickGuy]

Had to build a gate so got delayed on working on the car
hard to believe it's $1600 if someone else builds it for you

In other news... mounted the tires to the track wheels, I'll have to weight them, they're substantially lighter

the rears are the same size as what's already on there but the fronts

275/35zr18 v. 295/30zr18 - so shorter and wider.... but I think the same offset so, crossing fingers, no need to cut the flares and widen them

anyway, got onto the car - should have taken more pictures
and hit a slight snag.... I need it to go into the innermost 'spot' but something is preventing that from happening...

so I'll take it apart again and see what's up....
and the new rear end is ready to be picked up
to be continued....

[SuperBuickGuy]

easiest way to get the upper ball joint off

drill and tap for grease zerts


upper assembled

and installed

and then onto the lower control arms

so I remember where it was set (it doesn't set on the lower control arm when this is done but this helps me align it later



remove bushings

bushings removed


no more rubber, delrin

nicely machined so they get fully lubed

a 'while I'm there' shaving just a bit off the new sway bar gives me clearance I need


I really like the quality of the Global West parts.

[SuperBuickGuy]

got a pleasant surprise today

not quite the same, but don't care

[SuperBuickGuy]

more updates, the much anticipated Global West suspension upgrades arrived.... why did I wait when I could have paid less for others? well, glad you asked

this changes how you adjust the front suspension - it also allows you to narrow the track by 1/2", a real benefit if you're already considering whether or not you will have to reflare the car to fit better front tires.
But I digress, these are the upper bushings, they're basically lubeable heims

also the way they go together makes it impossible for the upper control arm to move fore and aft (which they can in the stock setup)

they also allow you to adjust camber by simply flipping the bit that bolts to the frame (the flats are ground off center)

they also eliminate the lower control arm cams (and replace the bushings with a lubeable delrin bushing)


to remind, last time out, I pushed hard enough on the 340 tread wear tires to change the camber... and now I'm going 200 tread wear and 1" per side wider contact patch

first step,
picture for posterity


push out the upper bushings

then realize I don't have green threadlock

so take pictures of 7 month old, 87 lb bloodhound puppy and her sidekick, Luigi

[SuperBuickGuy]

new shoes have arrived

[SuperBuickGuy]

boxes

winning

basically, I'm using rears from a basic C6 on the front and a GS C6 on the rear

11" fronts, they 'just' clear on the inside on the upper control arm


I may have to do some work on the front flares to make it perfect but I can run it like this... we will see once I put the 295s on the front... I'm stoked. Next up is the headers and port efi....time to make this fast...

[SuperBuickGuy]

every guy i ever hit on needed the same number, 9-1-1.....

i used to ask "hey, remember that tv show 'queer eye for the straight guy'?
well you about to be on MY show, and its called 'black eye from the fat guy'...."



man i miss work, hah hah...

[fatguyzinc]

no, but that guy you were hitting on wants your phone number....

every guy i ever hit on needed the same number, 9-1-1.....

i used to ask "hey, remember that tv show 'queer eye for the straight guy'?
well you about to be on MY show, and its called 'black eye from the fat guy'...."



man i miss work, hah hah...