time to refit the Corvette radiator. well, the C3 Corvette radiator, the last was from a Z06 and it wasn't enough....
ain't going to win any award for the engine compartment... eff em.
I've spent WAY too much time on this.... there isn't a great spot and this has issues with its closeness to the alternator... but if I have to shield it, oh well... see the comment about show portion of life
that said, I have a lot of respect for a clean engine bay builder... but not enough to spend another year or two on this
first is build brackets
then tack them to the top of the frame... need to finish weld and paint... but time to move on
and the regulator is installed
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because the first step is always, take it further apart
time to pull the radiator (the hood wasn't a lot of fun by myself...)
there will be re-engineering - this bar causes cooling issues because it blocks the normal outlet port
red light, it works
and the crank trigger/wheel is in place
looks like alignment is my next trick
that said, it wasn't that great to begin with
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back to this... goal is get close enough that if I have questions that I can get them answered at SEMA.
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so Holley, please tell me why if I buy your overpriced part, it's got the wrong connector on it... this isn't a huge deal by any stretch but when you order the part specifically from the tech guy at Holley, one should expect it to work without modification.
very expensive bag of wires
planned to work on the fuel system... got distracted but here's the before picture
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Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
................
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
....and never forget that thieves are the hardest working lazy people that you've ever had the displeasure of meeting.
I like going fast and fast costs money. That money is usually spent going fast reliably - you may get a good break and win with dead simple/cheap stuff, but more likely then not you'll spend more time on the trailer.... and one this is certain in that, it's not possible to win if you're on the trailer.
or have it stolen.... f**king thieves.
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Originally posted by cstmwgn View PostLook again. On my ford - it has bolts that hold it together (maybe 6 - too lazy to go crawl under the car and look) and then 4 that holds the pulley on the balancer (because fords use 4 bolts)Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 14, 2023, 02:33 PM.
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Look again. On my ford - it has bolts that hold it together (maybe 6 - too lazy to go crawl under the car and look) and then 4 that holds the pulley on the balancer (because fords use 4 bolts)
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Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
Have you looked at Innovators West? They offer a balancer with the magnetic bits incorporated for 385 series stuff. I would have to imagine they have even better offerings for Chevy stuff. Pricey but nice quality.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostIn today's installment on how to go bankrupt with a simple install, let's talk crank triggers. For this installment, we'll feature our spokes BS'er and overall bicyclist hater, Chad "the square exhaust" guru.
8 minutes I won't get back - and the ONE question I had.... no answer, accessories.... how do you install them? I should have figured, the universe hates me and Chad is the universe's spokesmodel.
to be fair, there is no solution for this from Speedmaster, MSD, Moroso, or FAST.
I suppose I can space everything since I already have an aftermarket belt solution.... but still annoying.
With all that hate, there is yet another background problem that I might solve here.... the alternator belt slips, no matter how tight, maybe it's time to go electric (water pump, hydraulic pump) and a direct drive or even cog drive alternator.... at minimum an electric pump would help with idle temperatures (something I'm having trouble with during the wait during autocross sessions).
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Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
no, no--- just saying.....
i fully agree with your statement about scaring people once you
get the bugs worked out.... some of us are just fat and lazy and
dont want to put ourselves thru the torture and take the easy and
cheaper way out with known integers.
I like going fast and fast costs money. That money is usually spent going fast reliably - you may get a good break and win with dead simple/cheap stuff, but more likely then not you'll spend more time on the trailer.... and one this is certain in that, it's not possible to win if you're on the trailer.
or have it stolen.... f**king thieves.Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 14, 2023, 09:57 AM.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
it's certainly easier to steal. care to take another shot at my choices?
i fully agree with your statement about scaring people once you
get the bugs worked out.... some of us are just fat and lazy and
dont want to put ourselves thru the torture and take the easy and
cheaper way out with known integers.
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Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Postflex a lite #FLX-418 and a stock shroud kept mine on the 180 tstat even in 90 degree, stop and go bumper to bumper,
as well as 20+ minutes waiting for obongos motorcade to pass us. theres a reason i run mechanical fans, fuel pumps,
no electric o/d trannys, no stalls over 2800, no gears bigger than 4:10, no EFI, etc is because "been there done that"
and i have found what works-for me at least.
i will GLADLY give up a few hp for reliable as a rock + driveability.....
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flex a lite #FLX-418 and a stock shroud kept mine on the 180 tstat even in 90 degree, stop and go bumper to bumper,
as well as 20+ minutes waiting for obongos motorcade to pass us. theres a reason i run mechanical fans, fuel pumps,
no electric o/d trannys, no stalls over 2800, no gears bigger than 4:10, no EFI, etc is because "been there done that"
and i have found what works-for me at least.
i will GLADLY give up a few hp for reliable as a rock + driveability.....
Leave a comment:
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