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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    time to refit the Corvette radiator. well, the C3 Corvette radiator, the last was from a Z06 and it wasn't enough....

    ain't going to win any award for the engine compartment... eff em.

    I've spent WAY too much time on this.... there isn't a great spot and this has issues with its closeness to the alternator... but if I have to shield it, oh well... see the comment about show portion of life

    that said, I have a lot of respect for a clean engine bay builder... but not enough to spend another year or two on this

    first is build brackets

    then tack them to the top of the frame... need to finish weld and paint... but time to move on

    and the regulator is installed

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    because the first step is always, take it further apart

    time to pull the radiator (the hood wasn't a lot of fun by myself...)

    there will be re-engineering - this bar causes cooling issues because it blocks the normal outlet port

    red light, it works

    and the crank trigger/wheel is in place

    looks like alignment is my next trick

    that said, it wasn't that great to begin with

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    back to this... goal is get close enough that if I have questions that I can get them answered at SEMA.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    yippee... more wiring

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    so Holley, please tell me why if I buy your overpriced part, it's got the wrong connector on it... this isn't a huge deal by any stretch but when you order the part specifically from the tech guy at Holley, one should expect it to work without modification.

    very expensive bag of wires

    planned to work on the fuel system... got distracted but here's the before picture

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post

    ................

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    not far enough, I still firmly believe the best solution for a thief is a bullet.

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  • fatguyzinc
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

    ....and never forget that thieves are the hardest working lazy people that you've ever had the displeasure of meeting.

    I like going fast and fast costs money. That money is usually spent going fast reliably - you may get a good break and win with dead simple/cheap stuff, but more likely then not you'll spend more time on the trailer.... and one this is certain in that, it's not possible to win if you're on the trailer.

    or have it stolen.... f**king thieves.
    ................

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    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
    Look again. On my ford - it has bolts that hold it together (maybe 6 - too lazy to go crawl under the car and look) and then 4 that holds the pulley on the balancer (because fords use 4 bolts)
    I don't really do Ford often enough to know - and this does change for some but for BBC/SBC most GM use 3 bolts (with a washer on the crank bolt) - 6 bolts is for those running a crank-assisted compression device.... sadly, you can't just use 3 of the 6, wrong spacing.
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 14, 2023, 02:33 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cstmwgn
    replied
    Look again. On my ford - it has bolts that hold it together (maybe 6 - too lazy to go crawl under the car and look) and then 4 that holds the pulley on the balancer (because fords use 4 bolts)

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

    Have you looked at Innovators West? They offer a balancer with the magnetic bits incorporated for 385 series stuff. I would have to imagine they have even better offerings for Chevy stuff. Pricey but nice quality.
    they have an integrated balancer - basically you unbolt the balancer cover and bolt on the one with magnets. The problem I saw with it was it uses a 6 bolt design for accessories (rather then the typical 3)

    Leave a comment:


  • cstmwgn
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    In today's installment on how to go bankrupt with a simple install, let's talk crank triggers. For this installment, we'll feature our spokes BS'er and overall bicyclist hater, Chad "the square exhaust" guru.

    8 minutes I won't get back - and the ONE question I had.... no answer, accessories.... how do you install them? I should have figured, the universe hates me and Chad is the universe's spokesmodel.

    to be fair, there is no solution for this from Speedmaster, MSD, Moroso, or FAST.

    I suppose I can space everything since I already have an aftermarket belt solution.... but still annoying.


    With all that hate, there is yet another background problem that I might solve here.... the alternator belt slips, no matter how tight, maybe it's time to go electric (water pump, hydraulic pump) and a direct drive or even cog drive alternator.... at minimum an electric pump would help with idle temperatures (something I'm having trouble with during the wait during autocross sessions).
    Have you looked at Innovators West? They offer a balancer with the magnetic bits incorporated for 385 series stuff. I would have to imagine they have even better offerings for Chevy stuff. Pricey but nice quality.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post

    no, no--- just saying.....
    i fully agree with your statement about scaring people once you
    get the bugs worked out.... some of us are just fat and lazy and
    dont want to put ourselves thru the torture and take the easy and
    cheaper way out with known integers.

    ....and never forget that thieves are the hardest working lazy people that you've ever had the displeasure of meeting.

    I like going fast and fast costs money. That money is usually spent going fast reliably - you may get a good break and win with dead simple/cheap stuff, but more likely then not you'll spend more time on the trailer.... and one this is certain in that, it's not possible to win if you're on the trailer.

    or have it stolen.... f**king thieves.
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 14, 2023, 09:57 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • fatguyzinc
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

    it's certainly easier to steal. care to take another shot at my choices?
    no, no--- just saying.....
    i fully agree with your statement about scaring people once you
    get the bugs worked out.... some of us are just fat and lazy and
    dont want to put ourselves thru the torture and take the easy and
    cheaper way out with known integers.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
    flex a lite #FLX-418 and a stock shroud kept mine on the 180 tstat even in 90 degree, stop and go bumper to bumper,
    as well as 20+ minutes waiting for obongos motorcade to pass us. theres a reason i run mechanical fans, fuel pumps,
    no electric o/d trannys, no stalls over 2800, no gears bigger than 4:10, no EFI, etc is because "been there done that"
    and i have found what works-for me at least.

    i will GLADLY give up a few hp for reliable as a rock + driveability.....
    it's certainly easier to steal. care to take another shot at my choices?

    Leave a comment:


  • fatguyzinc
    replied
    flex a lite #FLX-418 and a stock shroud kept mine on the 180 tstat even in 90 degree, stop and go bumper to bumper,
    as well as 20+ minutes waiting for obongos motorcade to pass us. theres a reason i run mechanical fans, fuel pumps,
    no electric o/d trannys, no stalls over 2800, no gears bigger than 4:10, no EFI, etc is because "been there done that"
    and i have found what works-for me at least.

    i will GLADLY give up a few hp for reliable as a rock + driveability.....

    Leave a comment:

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