I built my first stroker engine in 1996 to replace the engine in my 1992 Chevy pickup. It was based on an earlier 350 block with a SCAT cast steel 3.75 inch, aka 400 stroke, crankshaft with 5.7 inch rods and 4.060 KB Hypereutectic pistons for a total of 388 cubic inches. Because I lived in California and had to not only pass the “sniffer” emissions tests, but also the visual inspection, I used CARB Legal World Products Sportsman iron heads, a CARB legal COMP Cam, and a customized factory throttle body with bigger injectors and more fuel pressure. All of it was controlled by a custom PROM (chip) from JET and it made a ton more power than the stock 350. Enough to break the 700r4, and then the rear axle in fact. It pulled a trailer well, handled daily driver duties, and lived for more than 100,000 miles before I sold the truck 12 years later.

If I was building another small-block, it too would be a stroker build. There is just no reason to buy a crank, rods, and pistons without increasing the stroke because the cost differences are usually negligible. Build a stroker. It’s fun. Watch Richard’s video on how they perform.

Video Description:

HOW CAN I MAKE MORE TORQUE FROM MY SBC? SHOULD I BUILD A 383 STROKER? HOW MUCH POWER DOES A 383 STROKER MAKE? WHAT IS THE BEST CAM FOR A STROKER 383 CHEVY? IS A 383 BETTER THAN A 350 CHEVY? DO I NEED A BIG CAM IN MY STROKER? WHAT HEADS SHOULD I USE ON MY 383 STROKER? IS A STROKER A GOOD CHOICE FOR TOWING? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO WHERE I COMPARED A STOCK AND MODIFIED 350 BUILD TO A 383 BUILD TO ILLUSTRATE THE EXTRA TORQUE AND POWER OFFERED BY THE STROKER COMBO. THE GREATTHING IS YOU CAN ADD A LITTLE MORE CAM TO THE BIGGER MOTOR AND STILL HAVE ALL THE DRIVABILITY AND POWER OFFERED BY THE EXTRA CUBIC INCHES.