1939 Chevy coupe

[cstmwgn]

I can relate! We're lucky to have a Parker-Hannifin store here in town with a pretty good stock so usually I can drive a few miles and get what I need.

Dan

We used to have a well stocked Parker store - here lately not so much!

[DanStokes]

I can relate! We're lucky to have a Parker-Hannifin store here in town with a pretty good stock so usually I can drive a few miles and get what I need.

Dan

[fatguyzinc]

booo... i hate it when that happens.

[1946Austin]

Tried to install the new sending unit Wed., but no go. The 1/8 NPT hole is too far down, and when I went to the hardware store to buy a 1.5" nipple they had it, but no 45 degrees elbows. A 90 points the sender too flat, and no room to turn it anywhere that clears it. So had to put it baack together, and order a brass 45 off the internet, and will try again whenever it arrives next week.

[1946Austin]

a tip for the unwary.... sometimes electronic gauges are sold without senders.... which basically doubles whatever the price was of the gauge....

Yes, and that was the case with the AutoMeter gauge. So I cancelled the order, and switched to a Summit branded electronic oil pressure gauge. It was actually $23 less, and comes with a sending unit. It just arrived, and looks very good. Only issue is it's silver face, not white face like my other gauges. Not a big deal to me at $56 with sender.

[SuperBuickGuy]

The only mechanical gauges are water temp, and oil pressure. All the others are almost always electric gauges. So going mechanical on oil pressure isn't a huge deal. And my temp is still mechanical since there's no way a mechanical temp gauge can end up leaking coolant under the dash.
I went mechanical simply because I just always have. But had a chosen electric at the beginning, the cost difference sure isn't $200. The mechanical was about $35, and the electric is $79, so not a lot more.

a tip for the unwary.... sometimes electronic gauges are sold without senders.... which basically doubles whatever the price was of the gauge....

[1946Austin]

My decision to use the older mechanical gauges is "Economics" .
A Full gauge set difference is usually a couple of Benjamin's more by the time you get the right sending units.

The only mechanical gauges are water temp, and oil pressure. All the others are almost always electric gauges. So going mechanical on oil pressure isn't a huge deal. And my temp is still mechanical since there's no way a mechanical temp gauge can end up leaking coolant under the dash.
I went mechanical simply because I just always have. But had a chosen electric at the beginning, the cost difference sure isn't $200. The mechanical was about $35, and the electric is $79, so not a lot more.

[Captain]

My decision to use the older mechanical gauges is "Economics" .
A Full gauge set difference is usually a couple of Benjamin's more by the time you get the right sending units.

[1946Austin]

Would have been easier, and less money if I'd gone electronic to start with. But I've always been old school, and guess it's time to bring myself up to at least halfway towards modern.

[DanStokes]

I made the same decision on OP gages years ago when I saw a race car oiled down inside. I like the concept of a simple mechanical gage but there's too much chance for escaping oil.

Dan

[1946Austin]

I give up. after last year's oil gauge line failure, I went to a copper line and it fixed the issue. Then today I see a little puddle of oil on the driver's side floor mat! What the heck I'm thinking? So put my finger in it and smells like motor oil! And it's right below the oil gauge! Reach up and feel around the gauge, and my fingers have oil on them!
Went and grabbed a end wrench to check, but it's plenty tight, and couldn't get any tighter. So went in the house and got on Summit's site and ordered an Auto Meter electronic oil gauge with sending unit.
Not sure if it's the gauge, or the fitting, or what? But tired of oil pressure lines, and mechanical gauges, so once it land here this week I'll swap it out, and avoid future issues.

Pulled the rear axle out of the Austin last week to adjust the ladder bars and pinion angle. Once I got the pinion angle raised, it moved the driveline deeper into the trans, and went from a minimum 1/2" clearance, to 1/4" clearance! Barely enough to even get the driveline out of the car! Had to wrestle just to drop it out even!
So I dropped it out today, and ground my rear weld off, and cut 3/4" off the tube. Pressed it back into the tube, and welded it back up. I've got 1" of movement now, and it easily goes into place. Must have done better on my welds too, as it seems even smoother than it was before shortening it! Or maybe it's the brand new shiny black paint on it?

[SuperBuickGuy]

You'll pay for that, but totally worth it

[1946Austin]

Took the '39 up to a 4th of July festival at our daughter's small town. My wife and our 22 yr. old granddaughter drove up separately, since no room for three in the coupe. Had a nice little cruise in at the show. Free entry, no judging; just what I like!
When we got ready to head home my wife asked her if she wanted to ride home with her, and she declined. Said she wanted to ride home in the cool old car!

[1946Austin]

Got over this morning and got the slicks replaced. So good to go now. The new slicks on brand new casings are a big improvement! They took hardly no weight to balance them, so that's great!










Replaced the center caps in back with flat plates. I think they look more no nonsense for a gasser build.

[1946Austin]

Mmmm! Garage smells like fresh pie! Crust slicks that is!









Got the notice they'd be delivered today, but of course I sat around waiting all day, and UPS didn't deliver until 7:00 p.m. tonight! Have an appointment to have them mounted and balanced first thing tomorrow!